U Joint replacement ?'s
U Joint replacement ?'s
Do I need a bearing or arbor press to replace my u-joints?
They need done and I'm not paying the dealer to do it. I will buy Napa greasable ones. If I need a press, I will buy one, I will still be in it for less $$$ than having the dealer do it (plus I can add to the tool collection
)
~Rob
They need done and I'm not paying the dealer to do it. I will buy Napa greasable ones. If I need a press, I will buy one, I will still be in it for less $$$ than having the dealer do it (plus I can add to the tool collection
)~Rob
I'm still a little fuzzy on how to do u-joints. I've read and read and read and it seems very simple but I've done a couple and they were a PIA. One was so bad that we actually had to cut it out with a grinder. Are you supposed to press the u-joint through the cap or what? The last set I did we barely had enough room to move the joint 1/4".
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Whitehorse, cultural hub of the universe..
I take the lazy road, and actually use the right tool for the job. I have the kit that does u-joints, brake anchor pins, ball joints, etc. I figured for the time and hassle saved, what the heck.
Basically, what I have found on these drivelines, is just get the big C clamp unit on there, and tighten it up, then hit the end of the screw with a small ball-peen hammer. This will cause the cups to begin moving in the yoke, then just wheel on it to get the cups to keep moving. The cross will push the cap out of the opposite side of the yoke, then turn the clamp unit around and repeat the procedure to push the other cup out.
I also have the Tiger Tool unit for doing u-joints on class 8 and bigger stuff. And we think these things are a problem...
I am not saying that running right out and buying an entire kit is worth your time, however, you might / should be able to rent these tools from a parts outlet or rental house. A couple of bucks out of pocket can save endless hours of entertainment for those watching the whole procedure.
Whatever you decide to do when approaching driveline work, use hammers sparingly, don't use heat, and work safely. Dropping a driveshaft on your head just plain sucks.
good luck
Basically, what I have found on these drivelines, is just get the big C clamp unit on there, and tighten it up, then hit the end of the screw with a small ball-peen hammer. This will cause the cups to begin moving in the yoke, then just wheel on it to get the cups to keep moving. The cross will push the cap out of the opposite side of the yoke, then turn the clamp unit around and repeat the procedure to push the other cup out.
I also have the Tiger Tool unit for doing u-joints on class 8 and bigger stuff. And we think these things are a problem...
I am not saying that running right out and buying an entire kit is worth your time, however, you might / should be able to rent these tools from a parts outlet or rental house. A couple of bucks out of pocket can save endless hours of entertainment for those watching the whole procedure.
Whatever you decide to do when approaching driveline work, use hammers sparingly, don't use heat, and work safely. Dropping a driveshaft on your head just plain sucks.
good luck
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Over the years I've done lots of Ujoint replacements. The last time I took the whole double assy. to "The U-Joint" store in Chehalis. They did all of them, balanced it all, in about 2 hours while I had lunch. For slightly over $100. I will not do any more in the shop. The last one I did in my shop for my friend it ruined the acme thread in my heavy duty bench vise.
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