Torque converter lockup
Torque converter lockup
I have 99 2500 all stock except for K&N air filter and Bullydog fuel module. Just recently i have noticed that the torque conver seems to lockup and ulock at about 45-50mph, after i exceed 50mph torque converter stays locked up. Would this indicate the torque converter lockup solenoid is getting week or do i have an internal leak in a clutch pak in tranny? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Welcome to our nightmare! lol
Well, there are several threads you need to read about this problem. Do a seach on "jumping in and out of OD".
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
Basically, the cause is a loose / corroded ground conncetion at your computer control module (CCM) on passenger side firewall of your truck. You need to clean ALL of the ground connections down to bare metal. There is one directly from the module to the firewall. Take the paint off underneath the screw head and clean everything up good with sand paper. Next there is a ground from the passenger side battery to the fender do the same thing there, but run a NEW GROUND WIRE from the fender conncetion to the module connection. You'll ahve to remove the air filter box. Clean the paint from under the driver's side assessory grounds also. Basically, clean all grounds.
If that does not fix it 100% then you may need to buy a DDT noise filter to remove electrical interference from the alternator. Follow the black wire from the pass. fender to the alternator. It's the same wire. When the brushes get worn they make more "noise" which travels throught he wire to the module. You may need to replace the alternator brushes for $40.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Take your time and do a good job cleaning everything up real good should take care of it.
The good news is its not mechanical, it's a ground problem that is an easy, cheap, but time consuming fix.
Well, there are several threads you need to read about this problem. Do a seach on "jumping in and out of OD".
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
Basically, the cause is a loose / corroded ground conncetion at your computer control module (CCM) on passenger side firewall of your truck. You need to clean ALL of the ground connections down to bare metal. There is one directly from the module to the firewall. Take the paint off underneath the screw head and clean everything up good with sand paper. Next there is a ground from the passenger side battery to the fender do the same thing there, but run a NEW GROUND WIRE from the fender conncetion to the module connection. You'll ahve to remove the air filter box. Clean the paint from under the driver's side assessory grounds also. Basically, clean all grounds.
If that does not fix it 100% then you may need to buy a DDT noise filter to remove electrical interference from the alternator. Follow the black wire from the pass. fender to the alternator. It's the same wire. When the brushes get worn they make more "noise" which travels throught he wire to the module. You may need to replace the alternator brushes for $40.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Take your time and do a good job cleaning everything up real good should take care of it.
The good news is its not mechanical, it's a ground problem that is an easy, cheap, but time consuming fix.
Thanks for the information, I am going to be cleaning up all my grounds this afternoon
with any luck this will solve my problem, I should have thought of that as that is a known issue on CNH farm machinery...guess i wasn't thinkin' along those lines thanks again.
with any luck this will solve my problem, I should have thought of that as that is a known issue on CNH farm machinery...guess i wasn't thinkin' along those lines thanks again.
Originally Posted by farmerd
Thanks for the information, I am going to be cleaning up all my grounds this afternoon
with any luck this will solve my problem, I should have thought of that as that is a known issue on CNH farm machinery...guess i wasn't thinkin' along those lines thanks again.
with any luck this will solve my problem, I should have thought of that as that is a known issue on CNH farm machinery...guess i wasn't thinkin' along those lines thanks again.
I used dielectric grease on all the grounds after I cleaned them. Solder any new ground wires you make. That should do it, but it took me a few months of trial & error to finally get it all. It can be a pain, take your time.
Originally Posted by Geico266
Welcome to our nightmare! lol
Well, there are several threads you need to read about this problem. Do a seach on "jumping in and out of OD".
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
Basically, the cause is a loose / corroded ground conncetion at your computer control module (CCM) on passenger side firewall of your truck. You need to clean ALL of the ground connections down to bare metal. There is one directly from the module to the firewall. Take the paint off underneath the screw head and clean everything up good with sand paper. Next there is a ground from the passenger side battery to the fender do the same thing there, but run a NEW GROUND WIRE from the fender conncetion to the module connection. You'll ahve to remove the air filter box. Clean the paint from under the driver's side assessory grounds also. Basically, clean all grounds.
If that does not fix it 100% then you may need to buy a DDT noise filter to remove electrical interference from the alternator. Follow the black wire from the pass. fender to the alternator. It's the same wire. When the brushes get worn they make more "noise" which travels throught he wire to the module. You may need to replace the alternator brushes for $40.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Take your time and do a good job cleaning everything up real good should take care of it.
The good news is its not mechanical, it's a ground problem that is an easy, cheap, but time consuming fix.
Well, there are several threads you need to read about this problem. Do a seach on "jumping in and out of OD".
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=Jumping
Basically, the cause is a loose / corroded ground conncetion at your computer control module (CCM) on passenger side firewall of your truck. You need to clean ALL of the ground connections down to bare metal. There is one directly from the module to the firewall. Take the paint off underneath the screw head and clean everything up good with sand paper. Next there is a ground from the passenger side battery to the fender do the same thing there, but run a NEW GROUND WIRE from the fender conncetion to the module connection. You'll ahve to remove the air filter box. Clean the paint from under the driver's side assessory grounds also. Basically, clean all grounds.
If that does not fix it 100% then you may need to buy a DDT noise filter to remove electrical interference from the alternator. Follow the black wire from the pass. fender to the alternator. It's the same wire. When the brushes get worn they make more "noise" which travels throught he wire to the module. You may need to replace the alternator brushes for $40.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Take your time and do a good job cleaning everything up real good should take care of it.
The good news is its not mechanical, it's a ground problem that is an easy, cheap, but time consuming fix.
My truck has been doing same thing. If I'm easing from 45 - 50 mph the truck seems to surge back and forth. If I give more fuel and push through that area it will pull with no surge. If I take it out of overdrive there is no problem. I also noticed it is worst with a load in the bed. Sorry, don't have an answer to your problem, just wondering if yours had these type problems.
Regards,
Gene
Regards,
Gene
There may be a problem with your ground wires...I don't know. But I believe all CTD 47RE trannys search between 3rd & OD, if allowed to go into OD at too low a speed (40-45 mph). Mine did when new...and my DTT (with noise filter) will also, if I let it.
Problem will be worse with added fueling bombs.
IMO, no Auto CTD should be allowed to shift into OD below 50 mph. Just "lugs" the engine, which tried to work in OD at very low rpms..... and electronic sensors try to adjust to changes in torque due to any pedal movement.
Both Farmerd and Gene007 say they have no problem if they hold off on OD until higher speed. Does this sound like corroded ground wires?
RJ
Problem will be worse with added fueling bombs.
IMO, no Auto CTD should be allowed to shift into OD below 50 mph. Just "lugs" the engine, which tried to work in OD at very low rpms..... and electronic sensors try to adjust to changes in torque due to any pedal movement.
Both Farmerd and Gene007 say they have no problem if they hold off on OD until higher speed. Does this sound like corroded ground wires?
RJ
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Great answer RJ, o/d should not be used at all under 50 mph, just lock out with push button, it will give you much better engine/trans control. As you stated they all will hunt back if allowed to do so(my hp tranny included), and this could be 3rd(lockup engaging and disengaging), or 4th locking/unlocking, or 4th gear down to 3rd or vise versa(back and forth hunting). Sounds like using the wrong gear for the speed, causing needless shifting, and not necessarily an electrical problem, as others have stated.
Keep it in 3rd gear by using lock out button, except when on the hiway then use 4th. BTW you can/will feel when clutch locks up in 3rd and 4th(more noticeable with shift kit), and when it disengages, as it is based on pedal input and load. If problem still persists afterwards, then look for possible bad electrical connections, then if that doesn't fix it up it is a mechanical problem, such as lockup clutch in torque converter.
Keep it in 3rd gear by using lock out button, except when on the hiway then use 4th. BTW you can/will feel when clutch locks up in 3rd and 4th(more noticeable with shift kit), and when it disengages, as it is based on pedal input and load. If problem still persists afterwards, then look for possible bad electrical connections, then if that doesn't fix it up it is a mechanical problem, such as lockup clutch in torque converter.
Originally Posted by Fishcop
I followed Geico 266 advice with the grounds and my problem has disappeared!!
Geico 266......YOU D MAN!!! Thanks
Geico 266......YOU D MAN!!! Thanks
.... But it wasn't me that figured it out. I just followed directions like you. Make sure you get the driver's side fender ground too.If it returns, you might want to consider getting the $40 DTT noise cancellation kit. I was able to get all of mine fixed for about 3 months then it came back alittle.
OH! that's right this is a NO DRAMA THREAD!

Call DTT http://www.dieseltrans.com/
Thanks again Geico 266, I have noticed that the transmission shifts better also, it use to drag out shifting from 3rd to 4th....now its just right! I finished the grounds on the driver side today. And by the way, I really am a fish cop. After retiring from the USCG, I was hired by the Va. Marine Police.
Now I get to play with guns and drive fast boats
Now I get to play with guns and drive fast boats
Originally Posted by Fishcop
Thanks again Geico 266, I have noticed that the transmission shifts better also, it use to drag out shifting from 3rd to 4th....now its just right! I finished the grounds on the driver side today. And by the way, I really am a fish cop. After retiring from the USCG, I was hired by the Va. Marine Police.
Now I get to play with guns and drive fast boats

Now I get to play with guns and drive fast boats

Thanks for all the information, after cleaning up all the grounds i could possible find, tranny shifts great, no more hunting, even with 20,000 lbs hooked on behind. It took sometime to get at all the grounds but it seems like it was worth all the effort. I have been keeping a close eye on it since i cleaned up the grounds, and it hasn't acted up yet about 3 weeks now.


