Hello All,

I have been reading a lot of the posts on here about the stock lift pump alternatives. Most I have read tend to go with the external fuel pump mounted along the frame of the truck. I am curious as to many of you don’t go with the “in tank” fuel pump replacement. Is it because it would be a lot more work to drop the fuel tank down to install the internal fuel tank as opposed to just mounting an external fuel pump to the frame? Mostly asking out of curiosity. Thanks for any input on this question.

My Best, Greg

 

the only people that install the $900 in tank lift pump are the people that are still under warranty. for that kinda money you can install 2 fass systems.

the in-tank pump only pushes 9 psi at idle and 0 at WOT. They just installed this pump on my dads rig and thats his readings. hes going to have to install a holley blue and see what that does

has any body put a pusher pump with a pusher pump? whats your results?

 

From what I hear, and from guys that are in the know, it is the way to go. It is supposed to be much better, especially since the pump is in the tank which allows it to stay cooler.

I have not done it so I cannot speak from experience. Guys in the repair business tell us its the way to go.

 

Hello Blackdiesel02,

I am looking at a Walbro “in tank” fuel pump for about $110. I talked to a technician at Walbro and he told me that the pump will go right into the tank with no modifications. He went on to say that this pump was designed to replace the stock lift pump located on the engine. An installation guide is included with the pump. I don’t know if what he said is true or not. I did see a post by a member that went this way and had good results with it.

My Best, Greg

 

Why in the world do you want an "in-tank" pump? The reason most dont want the intank pump is that it would be a real PITA to replace and the fuel pressure it supplies is boderline. There are MUCH better alternatiives for a lot less money. I wouldnt put an in-tank pump on either of my trucks if they were free.

 

my lift pump just went out on the 03 the in tank pump was about 270 from dodge bought a holley blue for 180 it is supposed to give more flow at wot so we'll see. figured i ought to get a higher volume pump if i had to buy one

 

My dad had his LP go out on his 01.5 last month and the dealer installed the new in-tank pump. Now he sees 6psi at idle and 7 after warmup. He had 13 - 14 on the original before it started acting real weird. He tows occasionally and it easily drops down to 2-3, maybe 4 max cruising with the fiver.

Anyway, he is going to add a Carter P4600 (8psi) on the frame rail in front of the tank to get the pressures back up into the teens where they should be.

Steve

 

I had the in tank put in my truck 4 months ago. The dealer did it under warranty, i get the same pressure readings. 8 at idle 5 crusing, with the 5th wheel crusing. Can you put a pump between the tank and filter to boost the pressure? Wont the in tank pump starve the other pump???? Was looking toward the Blue holley pump. Thanks

 

Domand,

In theory, it won't starve the other pump. My dad and I have not done the BOMB yet, but we do not anticipate any issues. Supposedly, the new in-tank pump flows plenty of volume, just not at a high pressure so I think it will be OK.

 

I have the in-tank pump on my truck...and it was done under warranty. I can honestly say that I regret having the work done. For these reasons....If your pump dies...then you have to drop the tank and replace it. Also If it dies...it doesnt allow fuel to pass through the pump to the next pump you may have in the fuel system. It cuts the fuel off so when the pump dies your truck dies and your stuck. If i could go back that pump would have never been installed.

 

since the injector pump is providing the pressure all the lift pump has to do is provide volume of fuel. doesn't seem like you would need 18 psi or 180 gallons an hour when your truck only uses 4-5 gallons of fuel per hour. The fuel does lube and cool the injector pump so more is better but not really necessary. I haven't found an alternative to the in tank pump that is cheaper. The ones I see are $600 the in tank are around $200 airtek and $400 for factory. Also with out a check valve on the draw, you will get a lot more air going through your line with an after market pump, most of these will filter this air. Air will not be good go in to the injector pump. I have 186,000 on my current factory lift pump, no modifications to the truck. Going to switch it out today just because it has 186,000 miles on it.

buzzard

 

After changing an in tank pump in my Yukon, I learned it is a terrible place for a fuel pump. When it went out a second time, I had the dealer change it.

The cost to have someone drain the fuel, remember the environmental waste charge too, install the pump etc, pay dealer prices and labor.

The first pump I bought at AutoZone for under $200, The dealer charged me over $800.

When my 01 Dodge pump failed, there was no question what kind of pump I was buying.

It's easily accessible on the frame rail and cost a lot less.

 

I can confirm,Auto zone wanted 200 dollars for stock intank and dealer wanted 700 plus taxes.Also i get 13 psi at idle and about about 6 floored with my stock intank.Like someone mentioned how accurate are some of these gauges that we are using?,i,ve had three different gauges, on mine all reading the same so i know it,s accurate.You can turn up the pressure on the stock intank, but you have to drop the tank,look up the article intank pump exposed by glacial diesel.However if you can afford it why not go for the after market pump.

 

OK so what needs to be done to swap back to the on rail from in tank?

 

Much like when you go the wrong way down a road.

You need to back track. What ever was done to the tank, including the pump, needs to be restored to how it was before the 'Up-Grade"

Buy your favorite after market pump & installation kit. Follow the instructions.

(mount it on the rail, connect it to the spicket on the top of the tank and the line to the engine, use the kit wiring harness & power relay)