J BODY

.....if you run the "new" retro kit number it shows as "NOT A COVERED ITEM" on the computer. You have to run the old part number, get that operations code, and jump through some other small hoops to make the claim a covered item. We had some issues with the first few I did.

bluebull

So my question is what do you and mopar1973man base your comments on?

J BODY

My issue with the Fass, Holley blue, etc....is where it is mounted. While it would lead a relatively easy life here in norust arizona, there is NO WAY I would mount anything of that nature where it would be exposed to the elements (read road salt states). Whether it's DC, Cummins, or aftermarket I would prefer the pump to be in the tank. I've thought for years that would be the ideal location. While it's true that IF it does fail, you have to go through the trials of bed lifting or tank lowering, I still feel it's a better location overall. I've done four retro fits on 2nd gens, and probably about 15 on common rail trucks. Jury is still out on reliability, but I'm betting those pumps will work great pushing the fuel rather than pulling.

Dr. Evil

Personal experience. Have you actually seen this little beauty?

The thing doesnt put out adequate pressure. Already read about failures with it. Just because its a DC "fix" doesnt mean its a good one, no offence intended J BODY.

I guess, I should have included the tag "IMHO"

bluebull

I'am not going to say the intank kit is the end all, cure all, but I think it's too early to make a judgment call.

You say doesn't put out adequate pressure, for what application, stock, modified, 2nd generation, 3rd generation. Long before DC came out with the in-tank fuel pump they were more concerned with flow rates rather than fuel pressure. Pressure and flow rates are not linear. I remember years ago all the talk was if they would put the pumps in the tank it would eliminate alot of the lift pump problems. Now they install them in the tank and right away someone starts condemning them. I personally have only read about one in-tank lift pump problem and if memory serves me right it really had more to do with something else than the pump itself.

Like I said, my personal opinion is it's too early to condemn the in-tank pumps.

scook6

My truck seems to run much better then it did before even when the just replaced LP was new. I always had some fluctuations on idle from my tach and those are now gone too. Not sure what to make of that! We'll see but the dealer claims that this is a much better setup than the old LP, and we can debate this until hell freezes over but only time and driving will really tell the story.




2002 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 S/B

Dr. Evil

Well, I certainly wouldnt put one on my truck. What happens when the new and approved pump dies and the warranty is expired ?? I would guess that the dealer will be more than happy to change it for you for about $600 - and thats $600 each and every time. The conversation at the dealership will go something like this: "Well sir, we have to drop the tank to remove the lift pump - its a big job.....as well, you need a new fuel filter, that will be an extra $50" - sound about right? I will NOT take my truck to a dealer and dropping the tank or lifting the bed is something I want to do ONCE - so, for me, the fix better be a permanent one.

A FASS is guaranteed for 4 YEARS, removes the air from the fuel (which is a major cause of pump wear), increases hp, increases milage, cools the fuel, extends fuel filter life and gives smoother idle and better throttle response. I have my doubts that an in tank pump will do ANY of that.

Like I said, I should have included the tag "IMHO"

Dodge Demon

Dr. Evil,you my friend hit the nail right on the head,that is the exact sinerio that will happen, Dodge tried to fix thier blunders befor with more blunders, just to keep us going til warrenty is off.

bluebull

Dr. Evil,

If the lift pump goes out and I am out of warranty I will replace it with a lift pump from www.summitracing.com wiring harness and all for $130.00 just like I did on my 99 cummins not that expensive F.A.S.S. system.

Like scook6 said," we can debate this until hell freezes over but only time and driving will really tell the story.

J BODY

Kind of wonder how they figure they are able to "increase hp", "cool the fuel", and "extend filter life". Four year warranty sounds nice though.

J BODY

....biggest "blunder" DC did was not to look at the issues the RV industry was having with the engine mounted lift pump before accepting that fuel system from Cummins. In tank, or back near the tank is the way to fly. I think we can "kind of" agree on that.

scook6

Yeah and by that time someone will make a new and improved super pump that will retro right in the tank. I have spent a fair amount of time reading people's opinions on this forum and the vast majority all seem to concur that a pump that pushes is better than one that pulls. Dr. Evil my opinion is just that my opinon, and I am in no way saying that if your way works for you that is fine too. Thanks

OUTDOORSMAN

they called a little while ago and said i have a bad lift pump that is NOT COVERED under warranty. i have 87,000 miles. should it be covered? they want $926 for the intank pump. i dont even know what to say. any advice? thanks Darrin

Rsquared28

The intank kit cost me only $450, so they are wanting $500 just for installation.
It was not a hard installation. The installation instructions have some extra steps that can be skipped, like dropping the starter and removing one of the wheels I did not do either of these.
If the tank is empty, it is very lightweight and can be easily dropped down by one person. If you have fuel in it, just syphon it out into some jerry cans or buckets.

scook6

You need to call DC give the customer service rep the last digits of your VIN and they will tell you how much warranty is left and tell them your LP is bad and you dealer is being a b----h about it and you need it fixed.