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Switching to Synthetic

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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 07:10 PM
  #1  
Dr. Evil's Avatar
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From: The Great White North
Switching to Synthetic

Im considering switching to synthetic but have heard that its a good idea to do an engine flush prior to switching, since the synthetic can loosen deposits from the convention oil.

What do you guys think? Would it be ok to simply switch to Delo synthetic??

The truck is a 2001 H.O and has 43 K on it......

Thanks.
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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 08:19 PM
  #2  
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From: Washington State
Re:Switching to Synthetic

I switched to Delo Synthetic at 50K miles, didn't flush, no problems so far, 8K miles later.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 05:59 AM
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Re:Switching to Synthetic

I switched mine to Amsoil synthetic. 15k so far. I'm especially glad to have it in there now that the weather is starting to turn cold. I've never heard about flushing the engine prior to change over.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 07:31 AM
  #4  
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From: The Great White North
Re:Switching to Synthetic

I believe the engine flush is more for the higher milage engines but am not completely sure.....can anyone else offer their expertise??
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 07:39 AM
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From: Central Mexico.
Re:Switching to Synthetic

It is not necessary to do an engine flush when switching to synthetic oils on a low mileage engine. On a very high mileage engine it may be beneficial to do the flush but the flush itself could cause mega problems. What happens is that the flush breaks loose all the years of accumulated deposits. Some of these freed up deposits could be large enough to plug the oil passages which of course leads to oil starvation in some areas such as a crankshaft bearing.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 12:34 PM
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From: NE Wisconsin
Re:Switching to Synthetic

I agree, high mileage engines would be the candidate for an engine flush. But I wouldn't use a radical, solvent-based, "15 minute" type flush. I'd recommend using a product called AutoRX. It's a natural, subtle cleaning agent that uses the motor oil in your crankcase as the carrier, and is run for like 1,500 miles. It removes the build up of varnish and sludge in layers, just the reverse of how it got there in the first place, liquifies them and deposits it in the filter. If leaky seals are not ripped or torn, this stuff actually conditions them that the leak becomes insignificant or stops completely. I used this product in a high mileage gas engine that leaked like a sive with excellant results.

However, based of what I've seen on this Cummins engine, It's very easy on oil, and I would guess build-up would be minimal, and flushing the engine may not be necessary, regardless of mileage.
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