The pump came with all necessary washers for fuel lines and o-rings for pump sealing in gear housing. They also loaned a puller @ no additional charge. I am getting ready to head out today to move a couple travel trailers around, I'll let you know what I think then.

 

ok, what about mwdi/ diesel store pumps? can I get a puller from autozone?
Frank

 

Here is a picture of the Blue Chip Diesel gear puller that was used to separate the injection pump gear from the injection pump shaft. It came complete with washers and the metric bolts used to thread into the injection pump gear. It is a pretty trick little unit and presses only against the end of the injection pump shaft so there is no chance of cracking the cast gear cover. See Attached Pic. I am sure a traditional puller like the attached pic shows will work, as long as there is clearance between fan, shroud and radiator. I don't know since I borrowed the one from Blue Chip

 

The second pictured one works just fine. Thats what I have in my home made timing kit. Lots of room.

 

Just got off the phone with Diesel store 1266 for the pump and z-series guage no tax, outa state, shipping and install kit inc. all new stuff inside new comp. Said Bosch requires it. got a question about the torque wrench what did yall use? 3/8 drive what other attachments, swivels, long or short handle etc.
Frank

 

I used a Snap-On 1/2" swivel head ratchet to break the nut loose (think it was an 1" or 1-1/8"--don't recall) and a Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench to snug the nut down after the pump was secured to the housing. I also used a pencil magnet held onto the end of the IP shaft to slide the nut & lock washer off onto so I could grab it more confidently. Didn't want to take a chance dropping into the housing and tearing the front of the engine apart to dig it out.

 

Do a search using VP44 and you will find numerous threads on the subject, some of which list the tools that various folks have used. I believe there is something about it under the Tech Facts section on this forum. I plan on having a 1/2" drive torque wrench; a 3/8ths drive and even a 1/4" drive torque wrench handy when I do my VP44 R&R.

 

Another happy blue chip customer here. My stock vp44 went out after running out of diesel at 185k.

Purchased the standard blue chip......took about 3 hours to install. Only have a few miles on it now, but the install went smooth thanks to blue chip's instructions along with their gear puller.

 

I'm a Blue Chip customer also.
I'm currently running the "X" pump and it has improved my MPG by a mile or so per gallon.

As for the HRVP, I replaced TWO in three years after they both siezed and internally self destructed.
The first was running with an Edge Comp wired to the pump, the second was ONLY run in EZ mode. (Pump wire was NEVER connected) Power was great, longevity.....notsomuch.
Running a Glacier Diesel Walbro lift pump, fuel pressure running was never under 12 psi.

This is the style puller I have used each time.

 

I have 45000 miles on my blue chip x pump. No problems with it and my mileage increased a solid 1.5/ gal.

 

i recently replaced my vp44 also and i was gonna get a blue chip one too until a friend told me about northeast performance diesel. The guy that owns it used to work at blue chip and i got my pump from him for less money, and it is just as good as a blue chip pump. I figure why spend the extra money for the blue chip name if its the same quality. This way the money i saved can go to other things like injectors or a turbo.

 

It's funny how many competitors say "It's just as good as a Blue Chip". Yet in the long run, no one seems to be a close secound. Out of all the VP threads I have read since 2002, there was only one negative one, everything else positive or glowing praise. So, when you buy a replacement VP, do a search, read the 1,000+ posts and keep score.
I looked into what it would cost to do a P Pump with all the fittings. It was north of $4k and then there would be electronic interfaces (do not remeber which, maybe cruise?) that would not work . My conclusion on P Pump conversion for VP's is that it is for people who want to make lots of HP with little or no regard to expense.
There is no question that Bosch, Cummins and Chrysler got a seriously flawed product on every 2nd Gen 5.9, as well as many other Cummins applications of school buses, UPS, etc. It wsa the 1st generation response to toughter emissions, as well as the chnage in lead/solder content which seemed to cause a lot of the computer meltdowns. Bosch saying how good reman VP's are is like BP saying how well it manages the Gulf Oil spill. The only diffrrence is that BP will pay for it's mistake and Bosch will not, at least at this point.
I love my 2002, other than the LP and VP. Blue chip seems to be the lesser of the evils. I am on a reman from Dodge under warranty at 50k. My next one will be Blue Chip, until someone has a better product & Track Record.
My $.02.

 

Once more guys started doing the p-pumps and info was out there, lots of guys were spending less than $1k to do the swap. Some guys actually came out ahead after selling their old parts.

 

I have yet to see a "How to" post on swapping to a P Pump and the associated costs. I would be very interested to see where you would buy all the parts and fittings for $1k, as well as the labor to do it. Again, even after the swap, it will be missing some original OEM functionality.

 

Go to Comp-D and go to the p-pump section and do some reading. IIRC, Get-Blown5.9 (TJ) came out ahead after doing the p-pump conversion. It involves buying a 12v engine.