warman

Can anyone please give me some advice. I've got a 2001 Dodge 2500 4wd with cummins diesel. The lift pump starved the injector pump three years ago and I bit the bullet for 2 grand. The new pump supposedly has a safety feature. I have checked the lift pump pressure regularly and added Stanadyn addive religiously. Driving to work this week, truck running great then acts like its running out of fuel. Mechanic replaced the lift pump but the injector will not pick up. Is he missing something to prime this thing or are these things really that big of a piece of junk ??
Thanks in advance for any replies.

Silver R/T

Do you have fuel psi gauge?

warman

My mechanic does. Is there a magic number to look for ?

1-5-3-6-2-4

There's no magic number. But getting under 7-8 psi is low. You'll never see over 15psi with a stock pump.

Crack...... Don't remove, crack some injectors line nuts at the injectors, crank. If there's no fuel spurting at each. And youve verified transfer pressure to the vp. Time to start thinking about a new VP.

Any codes from it?

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KATOOM

warman, yes, there is a magic number and for years the general consensus was never any less than 10 psi. But.....recently in the past couple years, its been considered that anything less than 14-15 psi is not good. Also, there is no "safety feature" in any VP. VP's do have a fuel temperature sensor that will defuel when fuel temps get to high but damage can occur far before that ever takes place.

I dont mean to sound like I'm criticizing you by any means but being frank, it clearly sounds like you know nothing about the VP, and that's perfectly OK. But unfortunately guys like you rely on "professionals" to give you correct information and that is proving to almost never happen. To have the right knowledge about the VP would mean dealing with them all the time and most mechanics never deal with the 2nd gen Cummins ISB fuel system.....without reading a service manual.....which also has proven to be inaccurate about the VP's needs for reliability. Whats the definition of insanity?.....doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results.

So its not the VP that failed you but good knowledge about what it needs to keep running for a long time. If you fully trust your mechanics ability then we forum members can help you make your third VP possibly be your last but it will take your mechanic trusting us too. In saying that, if you're not willing to do what it takes then I can only assure you that you will be gambling. You can go completely OEM again and it may last for 100,000 miles or it may last 50,000 miles or it may last 20,000 miles, but the chances of you replacing it a forth time would be great. I could go on and on about the reasons why and answer ALL your Q&A about the VP and VP history.

1-5-3-6-2-4

Katoom. Warman is not asking about longevity. He's trying to help his mechanic get his engine started. there is no magic number as a vp44 will run with zero transfer pressure and can fail with 15 or more pounds.

I suppose it would be smart if he wants to reconfigure the transfer system after this ordeal. But how I read it now, truck won't start, he's looking for info to get it started.


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rebal

where did you buy the last vp44 from? there are some shops that reuse the old electronics and there a known problem. also if you determine it is the vp44 get the next 1 fron blue chip diesel I have installed 2 of his pumps and both are well over 100,000 miles now and running perfect

duster75

Fix your delivery system and buy a blue chip.There are junk rebuilds out there as Katboom said.

KATOOM

You're right. I guess I went from answering the OP's question to full throttle and got off track.

But back to the original question. Yes, there still is a magic number when trying to prime the system and that number is "anything". Because at that point all you're trying to do is make sure the fuel pump is supplying the VP. But.....if the fuel pressure reading is low then the VP is probably not working because of the low FP and the attempt to prime is mute. At this point I'd suggest checking for any codes and making sure that all fuel system related fuses/relays are working. If all is good then the VP is most likely not. Even if there is no codes, the VP can fail electronically and not throw a code. As suggested, when cracking a couple injection lines and cranking the engine for a few seconds, you should get a good amount of fuel running out. If no fuel or if it dribbles out then the VP has failed. Then.....revert back to my previous post.

phal

This may sound silly, but make sure there is fuel in the tank. My truck was showing over 1/4 tank the last time I installed a new pump. I tried and tried to get it to start with no luck. I then put 5 gallons of diesel in the tank, cracked the injectors and it took off.
I had a bad fuel pump and a bad fuel level sensor. Showing fuel when there is none is another common problem with these trucks.
phal

KATOOM

Thats not silly at all and is more common that guys think. Its just not the first thing anyone thinks about. Good call.

Shovelhead

That's why I never like to let the tank get less than 1/2 full before looking for fuel.

Also don't overlook the fact that a malfunctioning "power adder" (fueling box) can KILL a VP-44 before its time.

warman

PHAL

Not silly at all. Wish I had this advice from the beginning. I was out of fuel and the gauge showed 1/4 of a tank. The mechanic thought he would give it a try and put some fuel in after replacing the lift pump. Three gallons started it and it is running fine. Maybe the lift pump will be a little piece of mind along with a new gas sending unit. Thanks to all of you for the advice and information. I would like to know the secret to keeping it in good shape.

vineyardmh

Now that it is running - consider doing the following:

1. Get rid of the banjo bolts. Go to Vulcan Performance and get their "Big Line Filter to Injection Pump kit w/ fuel pressure access.
2. Install a fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure gauge in the cab so you can monitor the fuel pressure. (Be worried if fuel pressure is < 10 psig!)
3. If you still have the lift fuel pump mounted near the back of the engine (driver shide) - move it down to the body/frame rail - use Vulcan Performance's Vulcan Pusher Pump System (and then you don't need the Big Line Filter to Injection Pump kit).
4. If you have the lift pump in the fuel tank - do you have a "dummy" aluminum plate where the pump used to be mounted ....with 2 banjo bolts there?? If so - GET RID OF THEM. Reduce all flow restrictions in the fuel lines!
5. Consider putting in a warning light that goes on if fuel pressure drops to 5 psi. (Kits are available!)

There are good write-ups on how to do these ...or drop me a line and I can give more information.

Shovelhead

You forgot something.....