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relocated lift pump

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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 02:15 PM
  #16  
BIGHEAD's Avatar
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From: Columbus,GA
Hey Dan since you & I have the same fuel filter compared to the newer style on the 2000's, you can add the 4601hp in the stock location with only some minor modifications to your fuel lines. Bigger Banjos is the biggest gimmick I have seen on the diesel market. I have tried them with no improvements at all. The trick is getting swapped up to the 1/2 inch line. I bought some fittings & such from City Diesel that use to supply the same materials for the ROD HIGH FLOW FUEL kit. I was going to retro a 2000 this week when I put new injectors in it for the guy. I noticed the filter housing & wiring was different. I told him to let's just put a stock LP back in since he wasn't trying to really BOMB out right now. The 4601HP is supposed to pump 18PSI. Any more than that is just overkill & probably wasted fuel & rougher starts. Just my "try it & do it" opinion.
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 02:56 PM
  #17  
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From: Denison, TX
Bighead

I drilled out my banjo bolts some time ago and I did detect a noticeable difference in smoothness and response. My pump pressure was acceptable at that time.

Now my pump pressure is getting low and I think it would be to my advantage to get the pump off of the engine. Many have supposed that it is the engine vibrations, as well as the height above the tank, that causes the premature pump failures.

My truck is stock and I do not plan to change that, so I am just looking for a way for the lift pump to last as long as it should and several people have concluded that moving their pump to the frame has solved their problems with lift pumps failing so fast.

What I need to know is the size [ID] of the fuel hose from the tank to the pump and what fitting I can get to adapt a 3/8" hose to the input of the filter housing.

Daniel
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 08:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by dan239
Bighead

I drilled out my banjo bolts some time ago and I did detect a noticeable difference in smoothness and response. My pump pressure was acceptable at that time.

Now my pump pressure is getting low and I think it would be to my advantage to get the pump off of the engine. Many have supposed that it is the engine vibrations, as well as the height above the tank, that causes the premature pump failures.

My truck is stock and I do not plan to change that, so I am just looking for a way for the lift pump to last as long as it should and several people have concluded that moving their pump to the frame has solved their problems with lift pumps failing so fast.

What I need to know is the size [ID] of the fuel hose from the tank to the pump and what fitting I can get to adapt a 3/8" hose to the input of the filter housing.

Daniel
The hard line from the tank is 3/8 OD so the 3/8 id fuel hose will work, the threads in the LP, filter housing and VP44 are M12X1.5 so you will need a M12X1.5 to 3/8 hose barb fitting to make it work with out spending the big bucks on adaptors & stuff. Check my gallery for pics.
Vulcan
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 09:03 PM
  #19  
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From: Denison, TX
Thanks Vulcan

I did not realize the line from the tank was a hard line as I had not checked it. I am planning to put my lift pump about where you did except on the outside of the frame. I have already made an adapter to fit the inlet of the filter housing which is 12 x 1.5 mm to 1/4" pipe. I will get an elbow to go from the 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb. I am planning to get the Carter P4601HP which comes with 3/8" adapters.

I am just about to do this and order the pump from Summit Racing @ $91.88. If anyone knows where I can get it for less, please let me know.

Thanks again,
Daniel
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 09:11 PM
  #20  
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From: Columbus,GA
Dan that is a good price on the pump. I bought one the other day from NAPA @ 140 bucks.They keep one in stock for me though, as I swap them out for people. the line going in the lift pump is a hard line, but if you back up a cpouple feet, it is a soft line attached back to a hard line. I still maintain that what kills these LPs prematurely is the pressure they are having to produce to push the fuel through the skinny lines to the filter & VP44, not the suction from the 3/8 line from the tank. Is it easier to blow a BB through a straw or a marble? Oh yeah the carters I get come with 1/2 inch straight barbs on them. Are you sure the one you are getting comes with 3/8 barbs? I got some M12x1.5 adapters to 1/2 elbowed hose barbs. That is how I have accomplished using the 1/2 inch line. It works great & the noise the pump makes going from little lines to big lines is noticeable. You can here the relief of the pump when going up in size.
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 10:45 PM
  #21  
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From: Denison, TX
Bighead

I thought the barbs that come with the pump were 3/8" but now I cannot find where I got that. Maybe they are 1/2" even though the ports in the pump are 3/8" NPT. If so I will just get a 1/2" barb elbow to go on the fitting I have already made. I was unable to find anyone in my area who stocks these barb fittings in metric. I will wait until I get the pump to get my additional fittings and hose.

Daniel
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #22  
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From: Denison, TX
Bighead,

Are you relocating the pumps to the frame or mounting them on the engine? Also, have you had any failures after your modifications?

Daniel
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 11:20 PM
  #23  
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From: Vancouver, USA
Originally posted by dan239
Thanks Vulcan

I did not realize the line from the tank was a hard line as I had not checked it. I am planning to put my lift pump about where you did except on the outside of the frame. I have already made an adapter to fit the inlet of the filter housing which is 12 x 1.5 mm to 1/4" pipe. I will get an elbow to go from the 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb. I am planning to get the Carter P4601HP which comes with 3/8" adapters.

I am just about to do this and order the pump from Summit Racing @ $91.88. If anyone knows where I can get it for less, please let me know.

Thanks again,
Daniel
Just curious as to why you want to mount it on the outside of the frame? Seems as there is more protection on the inside in case of side impact or flying debris from the tires.
V
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Old May 1, 2005 | 12:51 AM
  #24  
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From: Denison, TX
Originally posted by Vulcan
Just curious as to why you want to mount it on the outside of the frame? Seems as there is more protection on the inside in case of side impact or flying debris from the tires.
V
It will be so much easier to mount in a spot on the outside of the frame where I can get to the back to put nuts on the bolts and easy to work on later. The position I have chosen is on the high part of the frame and will be somewhat protected by the wheel well liner. If I feel it is necessary, I will install a shield for protection.

Daniel
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Old May 1, 2005 | 03:22 AM
  #25  
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From: Cynthiana, Kentucky
Dan239,

I just bought a Carter 4601HP last week and had it shipped to my door for $99.98. It lists for like $89.95 or something in Jeg's but with shipping and all it's $99.98 at the door. That'll save you a few extra bucks.

Rodney
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Old May 1, 2005 | 08:45 AM
  #26  
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From: Columbus,GA
Dan they will go right back in the stock location. They have the same stud pattern as the stock LP. That is why I don't see the necessity of doing all the work relocating it, especially on a stock truck. You can look at my signature & see what goodies I am running. To be honest, I don't remember when I put the 4601HP in, but it was well over a year ago, probably a year & a half. I will PM you my phone number if you want to call me.
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Old May 1, 2005 | 10:57 AM
  #27  
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From: Vancouver, USA
You can mount on the inside of the frame with out drilling any holes using one of the fuel line clamp holes and bolt. Easy deal.
V
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Old May 2, 2005 | 04:47 PM
  #28  
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From: Tenn.
Dan239,
I used the short 3/8" fuel line included in the kit just clamped on the cut hard fuel line.
I drilled all my banjo bolts and the banjo fitting inlets. Because the old pump banjo fittings were bigger, I used them on my filter inlet and VP44 inlet. The filter outlet was fair sized and better after the drilling. I'm likely going to the fittings Vulcan mentioned.
At the time of the relocate, I wish I had went with the straight M12X1.5 to 3/8 hose barb fittings so I'd be through now, although making power improvements really isn't work is it?
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