thanks i already got it open. im just worried since i didnt get the water out of the heater line.

 

It shouldn't be too big of a deal.
the reason to back flush is to get the rust flakes running the other way.
Example- the heater core and rad flow one way with coolant. if rust flakes are kind of obstructing the tubes, then the back flush will push them the opposite way, and clear them out.
When I did mine, the areas that you mentioned had rust on them as well.
When I do mine next, I am actually going to buy a flushing liquid and do it.

 

but what about the half of gallon or so of tap water and coolant from the first flush? thats what im worried about, should i flush again?
the first time i flushed, i used a flushing solution.

thanks dieselfan

 

Was your old coolant totally worn out? As for the tap water, depends on how hard it is. I used the premix my last drain and fill, because I am not really sure on the effects of using tap water compared to distilled water. I have heard arguments on both sides, so I just eliminated it altogether.
That little amount shouldn't really matter, but for piece of mind, what is another 30.00 in coolant?

 

the first coolant was worn out, but still green. ive flushed 2 times already. so whats in there should be new coolant and tap water from the 1st flush. thats kinda how i feel, i still got some coolant left over so it wouldnt cost me but 20.00.
does it matter which hose i blow out?

thanks dieselfan

 

If it's new coolant, I wouldn't worry about it. What is the protection rating at now?

 

i used 50/50 premix, i m gonna check it tommorrow. i also used some water pump conditioner( i think it was a rust preventer also).
i will report back tomorrow.

thanks for the help, dieselfan

 

50/50 premix? did you buy the premix, or premix it yourself?

 

sorry i bought premix and then mixed some also, when i ran out of premix.

 

I'm not too keen on mixing the 2 types like you did.

 

they where both prestone astmd 4985 specs.

 

You'll be fine if you used the same stuff.

I used Shella Rotelle ELC 60/40 Premix. It's good for something like 650,000 miles or 12,000 hours. Something crazy like that.

 

Color of the coolant is no indication of coolant protection. The coolant could be green 6 years from now but the additives in it to prevent electrolysis are long gone. A great way to check the health of your coolant is to use a voltmeter. Put the negative lead on the negative battery terminal. Open the radiator cap (cold engine of course) and submerge the positive lead into the coolant, but do not touch the probe to the sides, you wan the probe in the coolant only. Check the reading. Ideally you should have less than a tenth (1/10 or 0.10) of a volt DC.

What you are checking here is for a galvanic reaction between various metals in the engine. Eventually as the coolant goes old, the additive in it to prevent that break down and your coolant becomes the path to ground for the galvanic reaction. What this means is that your engine block can corrode from the inside out, simply from the path of the galvanic reaction (think anode-cathode with your block as the anode, ground as the cathode, and the coolant as the path between the two) The corrosion appears as rust and scale buildup in the coolant and coolant passages. The damage done to the inside of the block is permanent, and if let go for too long, can cause coolant passages to become plugged. Remember this can be prevented from ever becoming a problem.

A vast majority of use change our engine oil on a regular basis, simply because the oil wears out, and can no longer protect the engine as well as it could. Engine coolant is the same way, granted it does not break down near as quick as engine oil it should still be something to be aware of.


As far as mixing premix 50/50 together with a batch of concentrate and water to make 50/50, you should not have a problem doing this, give that the coolants you are mixing are the same brand and meet the same specifications.

 

I agree. You can also get test strips for this purpose. They will tell you the protection, as well as pH level and if the additives are good.
The voltmeter is cheaper of course.

J.R., is there a way to fix (additives) coolant that is overcharged or undercharged?

 

I don't know about overcharged coolant (don't even know if that is possible), but there are ways to help out aging coolant.

Fleetguard has some great products regarding coolant. I am not a salesman or anything for Fleetguard, but everything they make is tailored for diesel engines.

For testing the coolant :

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/fle...cool_ctest.jsp

Supplemental additives :

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/fle...g_cool_sca.jsp

Fleetguard coolant :

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/fle..._cool_anti.jsp

The stuff I use is the ES Compleat. So far so good with it in my engine, and its even dyed blue instead of green.