Swaping 99 front axle to 2000 or newer.
#1
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Swaping 99 front axle to 2000 or newer.
Rotors are shot again on my 99. Unit bearings has 300k on them as well as the axle ujoints so they all will need replaced. Part alone are a few hundred dollars shy of a salvage yard price of 2000 or newer front axle so when it eats rotors again they are an easy swap. I don't have a press that can handle removing the joints or the wheel studs so add in labor and my cost is more than a used axle so I have decieded I am going to swap out the axle. After reading on the subject it looks like it can be done and has been done. Just a few quetions I haven't been able to firmly track down. If I don't have the sensor wheel on my hub and nothing listed on the build sheet about front ABS is it safe to assume I do not have it or is there some other way to tell? Are the monting points for the spring and shock mounts the same or is modification required? Can I reuse the control arms do I need to ensure I get the control arms of the new model truck? Are they a direct bolt up? With the dual piston calapers do i need to get a later model master cylender and will it bolt up? Do i need a spring compressor or can you just take the pressure off with a Jack? Can this be done in a weekend?
Thanks in advance for any advise or opinions. IF any one has pics that would be even better!!!!
Thanks in advance for any advise or opinions. IF any one has pics that would be even better!!!!
#2
Registered User
Can't answer all of the questions, but here goes for a few.
Mounting points all the same.
Control arms all the same.
Master cylinder will be the same.
You can take the pressure off with jack. Actually, you'll be supporting the truck by the frame, behind the control arms, and lowering the axle away from the springs, so you need not worry about spring compression.
You should be able to do this in about 4 hours, if you have the wrenching ability and necessary tools.
You might want to get under there and spray every nut/bolt down with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil a week before you get started. Also, if you have an acetylene torch you can free any nut/bolt that the penetrating oil didn't work on. If you really want to do your homework, get under there and break each bolt loose then tighten it back up, so you know if there are any that will present a problem on swap day.
I'm putting an F350 axle in the front of my 96, as soon as I get obtain the necessary brackets to weld onto the axle.
Chris
Mounting points all the same.
Control arms all the same.
Master cylinder will be the same.
You can take the pressure off with jack. Actually, you'll be supporting the truck by the frame, behind the control arms, and lowering the axle away from the springs, so you need not worry about spring compression.
You should be able to do this in about 4 hours, if you have the wrenching ability and necessary tools.
You might want to get under there and spray every nut/bolt down with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil a week before you get started. Also, if you have an acetylene torch you can free any nut/bolt that the penetrating oil didn't work on. If you really want to do your homework, get under there and break each bolt loose then tighten it back up, so you know if there are any that will present a problem on swap day.
I'm putting an F350 axle in the front of my 96, as soon as I get obtain the necessary brackets to weld onto the axle.
Chris
#3
I would lift the truck up in the air, support well(4 jack stands), support axle(pair of rolling jacks works well) remove tires, remove steering and track part, remove shocks, remove brake lines, drive shaft and control arms. Lower axle and slide out, reverse to install, its not back except old rusty bolts.
#4
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I believe there are 2 different size adjustment bolts, for the control arms, not a big deal as you can drill them out or get the right sized adjuster bolts(caster adjustment).
use the 2000 axel calipers(dual piston) and when its time to replace the rotors do a search for 3rd gen brakes on a 2nd gen...huge improvement in braking ability!!
if you have electrical wiring near your brake hoses you would have ABS
remove shocks, undo tierod & track bar, drop axel and the springs should near fall on the ground, instal in reverse order
use the 2000 axel calipers(dual piston) and when its time to replace the rotors do a search for 3rd gen brakes on a 2nd gen...huge improvement in braking ability!!
if you have electrical wiring near your brake hoses you would have ABS
remove shocks, undo tierod & track bar, drop axel and the springs should near fall on the ground, instal in reverse order
#5
Well I am listenig I have and extra dodge ram 2500 2000 that has a 4.10 gearing and want to put the diffs in my 98.5 with 3.55 and 315 tires 4x4 both. Ed I have done many others differential exchanges and this looks like a direct bolt in no welding or modifing. I alread put the 1 ton chevy wheel cyl. in the rear. ED
#6
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Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advised. Sounds like it is as straight forward as I thought. Now off to find the axle. Thanks again to the great people on this site!!!
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#8
If you haven't got the axle yet there is a MUCH better option. Ford knuckles swap on some years, and you eliminate the unit bearings, get better brakes, manual hubs, better steering, you name it.
I believe I read the write up on Pirate 4x4, and was really bummed since I've already built knuckle to knuckle ram assist steering. Otherwise I would have gone that route.
I'll see if I can chase down a link.
I believe I read the write up on Pirate 4x4, and was really bummed since I've already built knuckle to knuckle ram assist steering. Otherwise I would have gone that route.
I'll see if I can chase down a link.
#9
http://images.pirate4x4.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=874442
LOOK AT THIS FIRST!!! Much much better mod, and probably easier.
LOOK AT THIS FIRST!!! Much much better mod, and probably easier.
#10
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The 02 the ball joints go in different directions than the 98. Steering linkage is all different as well. Might run into crossing issues between the early 2nd gens to the later 2nd gens, I would get as much of the steering stuff off the donor truck. Can't remember the cross year.
#12
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Thread Starter
Going to pick it up this weekend. I had looked at a knuckle swap but to much room for error and while I can weld, i don't trust my self on a steer axle. I am getting everything off of the front including the steering box. Well see how it goes. May be a month till I can get it in the garge. Darn honey do's.
#14
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Has anyone really put the 2000+ front in a 1999 and down truck? The axle is about 2" wider, and the bottom bracket mounts are in a different place. I have both sitting on the floor in my shop right now.
#15
Registered User
I ended up swapping everything from the u-joints out, from a 96 F350 axle housing. Gave me the big brakes and , in this case, automatic hubs, and I still have my CAD, which I am fine with. Same ball joints and u-joints for both axle housings, I just had to swap the axle stubs onto my Dodge axles.
For me it was less hassle than swapping the entire axle housing.
Chris
For me it was less hassle than swapping the entire axle housing.
Chris