I have 150k on the truck. The gauge just creeps up over 220 on the gauge. Only at idle, so I'm not sure. I guess I could replace the water pump.

 

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Liquid-air heat exchanger. Reduce/restrict either and it stops working. The radiator needs to be clean inside and out. Anything in front of the radiator can't restrict airflow either. Beside the oil from the breather already mentioned, bugs and mud can also shut off the air flow. Common problem here in Alaska. Another thing to consider is if the inside of your radiator is plugged up, that stuff is also in the block reducing heat transfer to the coolant. I don't let mine go more than 2 years without a good inside cleaning. Outside every spring.

 

The stock cooling system is about good for 300hp in summer conditions. From the sound of your load and speed on grade I think you are well within that Hp. In fact I would expect to pull that grade at about 40.

Anyway, no thermostat is a problem because the existing thermostat is not 2 way like a car. It is 3 way so without a tstat the engine is probably recirculating 1/2 the hot coolant bypassing the rad.

The fan clutch can gradually deteriorate until it does not work right.

1) Get the right 50/50 mix in it.
2) Get the right thermostat in it and boil it in the kitchen with a thermometer to verify that it is working. I have seen new ones not work. Quick and easy to check.
3) make sure the rad is clean, as you have done.
4) Replace the fan clutch.

One other thing to consider at altitude is that cooling capacity and hp are reduced due to altitude.

If the above does not fix it then you might have to reset the timing as mentioned.

 

I'm not saying throw parts at it, I am just assuming you already did the free stuff mentioned, like cleaning that radiator.

Run it and then post up if anything changed....

 

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I replaced my fan clutch the other day. I still don't here it spin up when its up to running temp and idling, the temp gauge still goes over 200. I decided to switch the AC on to see if it would engage then. Still nothing and AC is blowing warmer air. Something that is really strange is when I'm driving and have the AC on it blows cold air, so my guess is that the fan clutch isn't engaging, am I right?

Any known fixes? I'm guessing wiring might be bad or even WORSE yet the ECU is faulty.

 

i had similar issues with overheating, engine AND transmission, but in traffic at low speeds and high ambient temps primarily. New water pump (it was weeping), new lower temp t stat, new hoses, belt and tensioner did not solve the problem. Finally removed the radiator and discovered the oil/dirt/??? coating on the inner face, cleaning that off has yielded operating temps loaded or not, any ambient temp, below or at (worst case) the middle of the gauge.

The AC only at high speeds could also be airflow through the condenser, or rather heat transfer that isnt an issue at high speeds but is at low speeds

Good luck

 

Ok well I installed an non OEM doorman brand fan clutch it was cheaper, like 350 bucks cheaper then the mopar one. It turns out that it may of been faulty. Have anybody had any experience with the NAPA fan clutches? I think I'm going to try this one to see if it may work. Mopar ones will cost you 515.00 and the Napa one is 200.

 

Do you have 12V at the fan clutch? You might get a better response in the 3rd gen section, this is primarily for the 98.5-2002 trucks.

 

I was able to get an ohm reading at the fan clutch. I had a mechanic hook up a scanner and it says I was getting a P0483 and a P0480 code. We he also said he wasn't able to read any fan RPMs. I replaced it with a non OEM fan clutch also. Maybe it was bad or doesn't work with my truck. Has anybody tried the Napa brand fan clutch? They want $515 bucks for a mopar one and the Napa brand is $220.

Van