rdavisDGM

I removed the head and the gasket looked good nothing noticable (it was losing some compression and oil blowing from between the head gasket around the #2 & 3 cylinder) if it overheated could it have warped the head that bad? All the head bolts were tight #5 cylinder has some wear and the piston is worn thru on the side like the compression has been wearing away the piston (it has alot of blow by & smoke) the other 5 cylinders looked perfect nice cross hatch and no signs or wear. Also the VP44 went bad.

Can you clean up the #5 cylinder if still in spec (hone it) and replace the piston & ring, new head gasket, new VP44 and be in luck or just rebuild or replace it. (only 65,000 miles) I think my crew ran it hot, the radiator has a lot of hay stuck on the front of it (straw blowing). Can you patch them up when they run hot and cause these problems or will there just be more problems fromt he patching?

Thanks for any info.

Firechicken1967

there is a good posibility that the head could be warped. the best way way to check is to get your self a good straght edge and some fieler gauges nowyou need to lay the stright edge across and long ways on the head. then try to slide feiler gauges under the stright edge (.005 is the max clearance i believe i can check with my instructor about the correct clearance on monday) if more then a .005 gauge fits the head is warped out of limits. that would be a good place to start on the head. as for the cylinder to hone and repiston/ring it is only a shortterm fix. As for the pump some of the guys on here can mabe help you on that

ramsport59

My #3 melted down due to a broking injector tip. I ended up going 20 over, decked the block and had to get a new head. The head had 51 cracks in it thru all the cylinders, not just #3. I have $2700 into mine and doing all the work myself. A reman short block can be had for $4500 and a Long block around $7500.

Rick

gandalf1g

Cracks in a diesel cylinder head are not uncommon at all. It is the nature of the beast. As long as they are not into the water jacket or manifold passages the are acceptable. Use a staight edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage. If its in spec. clean it up and bolt her down.
If you have the extra cash have it trued at a machine shop.

dozer12216

Dito on cracks not being end of world. The head is nearly 1/2 inch thick in those places, so unless loosing water is probablly ok. Head and be pressure tested. Check warpage per earlier instructions.
If cyl can be honed and still meet specs would be ok to repiston and ring engine.

rdavisDGM

Thanks for the info!! I have found a engine machine shop that will rebuild the engine (basically what you get if I bought a long block) for $4500 with me doing the removing & installation, then I still will need some injectors,injection pump, then I should prorbaly do something with a better lift pump, FASS or something.

dozer12216

You might be able to grab a complete engine assy out of wrecked unit for less. A thought! (sometimes dangerous) Could you build the short block? A bore job should be less than $200 and pistons/rings/brgs should be less than $1500. Crank is OK by your statements. Add gskts, cam brgs, cleaning, head work, and misc perhaps another $700 would sound right if I had to do the job for myself. High end for short block with you building might be $3000.00 The 1500 saving would go long way on buying LP, VP44, injectors, ect.
The Short block itself is not much different than building a gas 6 cyl. Ad piston protrusion measuring is about it. The warranty is on you for the building though. Did I miss anything???
I have mulled as writing and will add. I would look hard for good salvage yard engine that you could document condition. I would not be afraid of the building myself, but only you know your capabilities. Don't overstrech yourself. Another thread built his for 2700 dollars for comparsion.