I have a one wheel wonder rear end (I hate it!!!!!!!)on my truck dont know much about rear ends what are my options???

 

Your truck should have a limited-slip differential (unless it was ordered without when new). These will wear out over time.
You could:
-Rebuild the factory limited-slip unit
-Install some sort of locking differential; ARB, Detroit, Grizzly
-Install a spool (I don't recommend this option for a street-driven truck)

Rebuilding the factory unit would be the most cost-effective......

 

Weld it up.......Lmao

 

On a 2wd I'd go with a run of the mill positraction. Like a powerloc or tracloc. If you want something fancier, maybe a Gleisen or Truetrac (all gear posi-no clutchpacks). If you need more than that, you really should just consider a 4x4.

Installation of a posi on the rear isn't *too* hard, but you will need a decent impact to get the bolts off of the ring gear, a "minor install" kit for the shims to reset backlash, a dial indicator to measure backlash, and either new carrier bearings or a press, bearing splitter etc. to get your old ones off for re-use.

Just set up the shims to get fairly tight tension on the bearings, and close to the same backlash.

 

this is what my "factory limited slip" looked like, it came out like you see and cost approx100$ for me to replace the gently used parts

 

How do you know for sure what your truck came with from the factory?

 

It will be on the sticker on the bottom surface of the hood.....if it's still there. If not, a Dodge dealer should be able to run the VIN and get a printout for you.

 

There should be a sticker on the inside of the glove box door. If you have a LS differential then it should indicate. Also, there should be a small metal tag on one of the differential bolts if its a LS. To test mechanically, simply jack up both rear tires together, then spin one side and see what the other tire does. If its a LS then the other tire will "want" follow but might not depending on LS condition, miles, and factory preload setting. Now if you do happen to have an open differential then the other tire will clearly spin in the opposite direction of the tire you're spinning. Also, no matter how crappy the condition your LS may be, it still wont act exactly like an open differential. But if you're just not satisfied with your results then all you have left to do is pull off the differential cover and look to see if there is any clutches on the outside of the spider gears. Depending on how old your gear lube is, that may not be such a bad idea.

If you do happen to discover that you indeed have an open carrier from the factory then you'll have to check what brands and types of aftermarket carriers are available for your differential. But I will highly suggest that you do stay with a LS type and not a locker.....unless its a selectable locker like the ARB. Selectable carriers are nice because you can turn them on and off where as lockers are always on and are no good for towing or for that matter, sometimes just driving on the road. LS carriers are gentle and can work great for what most people want but they do require a bit of knowledge too. You just cant treat a LS like its not there or you'll burn them up real quick. Running different size tires on the same axle, one wheel burnouts, lots of U-turns (especially with a load), are the most common driving habits that can ruin a LS. As for installation, DONT listen to anyone about doing it yourself. Especially since you already expressed your inexperience. Not knowing what you're doing and installing a set of gears or carriers WILL result in mass damage down the road. This is where shops come in and rightfully charge for their expertise and knowledge. Lastly, spools are illegal on the road.

 

X2 what Katoom says.

 

Good gawd! I hope mine doesn't look like that! Makes me want to yank my carrier and look!

It's hard, just not *too* hard! The reason I say this is that the only issues you have to address with gear setup is bearing preload (just basically snug) and gear backlash.

Nowhere NEAR as hard as setting up a R&P. No reading patterns, no guess and check for pinion depth etc.