I change my oil filter every 3000 miles.<br>I noticed to be very careful of the type on THIS website and some others. I started out buying STP ones. Then I switched to K&amp;N last time around. I took the STP one apart (expecting it to be cheap compared to a K&amp;N) and I SWEAR it might even be a K&amp;N in a different label. there's not any difference. I had expected the STP to look cheap compared to the K&amp;N. but I guess not. IS the fleetguard different than the K&amp;N??? (K&amp;N and STP just have this folded filter paper similar to an air filter sandwiched in there in a circle.,...If you know what I mean.) I expected to start using fleetguard as soon as I can find a supplier of them. But if they are the same as the two types I've already used, then I see no point in getting them.<br>I did read somewhere to stay away from the foam type.

 

Oil is important but oil filtration is more important. Most oil filters only filter to 20 microns. Like the ones you are talking about. Some of the good ones filter to 5 microns. I use the dual remote filter system sold by Amsoil. It has two filters on it. The first mount you could use any filter on the market you would like, the other is a bypass type, BE100 that filters to 1 micron. That is what I use. It only makes sense. Through research most of the damage done is at start up and particles under 5 microns.

You can use the &quot;best oil&quot; in the world but without good filtration you are still putting undue ware on your components.

You could change your oil every thirty miles and still without good filtration it will do you little.

http://www.wefilterit.com/products.htm
http://www.amsoil.com/
http://www.fleetguard.com/fleet/en/index.jsp

Please allow me to assist you in finding what you could use that will do a much finer job. OverFueled

 

Fleetguard, nothing but Fleetguard.<br><br>Owned by Cummins.<br>Made for the cummins.<br><br>Fleetguard Oil and Fuel filters are the only ones that will be going in my truck.<br><br>(The ones used by Dodge may be labeled Mopar, but they are Fleetguard as well)<br><br><br>phox

 

Gary and phox are right. I use only Fleetguard/Mopar filters, same people that make the engine make the filter. I don't know if the STP or K&amp;N filters are even on the DC TSB for approved oil filters. Worst case I would only use a filter that was on that TSB.

 

I use Baldwin filters for everything.... :-*<br><br><br>Tony

 

I use Hastings on everything.................<br>

 

STP, K&amp;N, Bosch, aftermarket AC/Delco, and Mobil 1 oil filters are made by Champion Labs. To varying specs. Interestingly, though, AC/Delco is one of the approved filters for use on the Cummins. Ford Motorcraft is also approved, which is made by Puralator. Go figure.<br><br>A word of caution, that Amsoil BE100 filter referenced above is a by-pass filter element, NOT a full flow. If that would be used in the full-flow position, you'd certainly ruin your engine, due to a lack of effective oil circulating volume. That BE100 needs a special mounting system that routes 10% of the oil volume to it, in addition to having the full-flow filter on the engine.<br>By-pass filters are marketed by this type of organization, to justify the cost of running an expensive, exotic oil in your crankcase. <br><br>I'm currently running the Amsoil full-flow filter, which is made by Baldwin/Hastings, Amsoil motor oil and an Amsoil air filter. I will be doing an analysis on this oil soon, and post the results here. We'll see how this stuff performs WITHOUT by-pass filtration.

 

I also agree with using only Fleetgaurd filters. Not because they are better than others but because there is an issue with some brands of filters falling apart under the stress of the Cummins oil system. Then the filter element will clog the oiling jets that cool the cylinders. If this happens you will cause MAJOR engine problems and on top of that loose your warranty to boot. Saw one truck at the dealer that had this happen. Dont really need to gamble to find the culprit. For this reason alone I will keep installing Fleetguard filters. Do they do the job? Heck yes they do and my motor will run great untill ?00,000 miles because all it askes for is a simple oil change at around 5,000 to 7500 miles. 3000 is not nessesary unless you are in heavy dust or often towing really big. I'm sure those extra filter, bypass setups are good (and expensive) but I would rather spend my money on something that would give as much as I put into it. Guys run these trucks hard with regular oil and filter for 500,000 miles. Just my opinion. I'm sure all the Amsiol guys will comment now.

 

does anyone have a supplier for fleetguard filters?<br>Heath

 

[quote author=ARAcummins link=board=4;threadid=16221;start=0#153281 date=1056568120]<br>does anyone have a supplier for fleetguard filters?<br>Heath<br>[/quote]<br><br>Besides a local cummins shop... alot of people like the kit supplied from Genos Garage Plus they are great people to deal with!<br><br>Tony

 

Two points I need to make. This is directly from my hydraulics professor at USU. Why anyone would have a phd in oil I have no idea.<br><br>Amsoil and other synthetic expensive types of oil.....Apparently they do NOT differ significantly from regular oils as long as you are at NORMAL operating temperatures following the owners manual directions when operating your truck. . BUT....they generally will handle at least 100 degrees (sometimes 200) higher in temperature before they begin to break down (or whatever it is they do)....which can make a HUGE difference if you happen to fry something because you pushed something too hard. I guess early examples of this was when they starting putting turbo's on a lot of cars in the 80s...it's no secret that a lot of the turbos went to helll, and all it would have taken would have been for the owners to let the motor idle for a few minutes EVERY time they shut it off. The synthetic oils will also do &quot;their&quot; thing well at lower temperatures than regular oil.<br><br>As far as filters go. Apparently, the technical talk should include MORE than one #. like 20 microns... Instead, filters will filter...say, 80% at 20 microns, 20% at 10 microns, nothing at 1 micron, etc., yada yada yada. I don't find that type of writing on any filter media. It's odd, because on TV, when they give margin for error, they also leave out the important rest of the story. Maybe when they are just packaging for the consumer, they don't asume you actually care what the real specs. are.<br><br>I WILL BE CHANGING TO FLEETGUARD&lt;, enough of that. But for what it's worth, I think all my uncles use wicks back on the farm in their farm equipment. For the last 50 years, I guess. Also, they always run straight 30W and let their stuff warm up for a long time before using it. I don't know what that's about.

 

<br><br>A single weight oil is great for an engine that doesnt drive under a large area of hp demand. Like equipment or race engines. They need the oil for the most demanding area of power and torque. And you should allow it more time to warm and circulate. Daily driving is for muli weight. Oh yea, the little &quot;w&quot; on the oil bottle doesnt mean weight it means winter blend.