Good point about by-pass filtration. Even if a particular wear number is elevated using a by-pass filter, the oil sample can come back "analytically clean" as if nothing is wrong.

Another thing the synthetic long drainers usually never reveal is how much make-up oil was added along the way that replenishes the additive package and TBN, and how many full-flow and by-pass filters they went through. Ah, the smell of multi-level marketing propaganda...........

My UOA report is posted awhile back and wear numbers were good with close to 90K on the clock, and 6,275 miles on the oil.

 

I'll tell you everything you want to know about my oil changes. What do you want to hear?

I change the main oil filter every 5000 miles and usually add a quart to a quart and a half. I change the main and bypass filter every 25000 miles and that usually takes three quarts to make up the sump level. I very seldom add a quart between oil filter changes. I ran the first oil 50,000 miles and have started changing every 25000 miles since I up'd the HP with the EX box. That's about it, it works for me.

 

Here's the numbers from my report:
Aluminum 3ppm, chromium 1ppm, iron 13ppm, and silicon 3ppm.

BTW, I did the analysis for peace of mind to make sure both the oil and engine were capable of extending the change interval. No by-pass filter and this oil is Amsoil 15/40. A good oil, it's just over priced.

 

Here you go:

Put in AMSOIL 15W40 Marine diesel at 24000 miles. Had been running Rotella and changing every 5000 up till then from new. This sample was at 65000 miles. I can't find the one for 75000 right now. Running AMSOIL dual remote also.

IRON 194
Chromium 8
Nickel <1
Aluminum 10
Lead 12
Tin <1
Silver 0.1
Titanium <1
Silicon 9
Boron 10
Sodium 4
Potasium <10
Molybdenum <5
Phosphorus 1412
Zinc 1436
Calcium 4667
Barium 36
Magnesium 305
Antimony <30
Vanadium <1
TBN 8.08

They called and talked to me about the hight iron content too.

This is how Analysists Inc defines the materials above just FYI for those who care:

Iron - Indicates wear originating from rings, shafts, gears, valve train, cylinder walls
Chromium - Primary sources are chromed parts such as rings, liners and some coolant additives
Nickel - Secondary indicator of wear from certain types of bearings, shafts, valves and valve guides
Aluminum - Indicates wear of pistons, rod bearings and certain types of bushings
Lead - Overlay of most main and rod bearings
Copper - Wear from bearings, rocker arm bushings, wrist pin bushings, thrust washers and other bronze and brass
Tin - Indicates wear from bearings when babbit overlays are used, also piston wear in some engines
Silver - Wear of bearings which contain silver
Titanium - Alloy in high quality steel for gears and bearings
Silicon - A measure of airborne dust and dirt contamination, usually indicating improper air cleaner service
Boron - Coolant additive
Sodium - Coolant additive
Potassium - Coolant additive
Molybdenum - Indicates ring wear, Used as an aditive in some oils
Phosphorus - Antirust agents
Zinc - Antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors, antiwear additives, detergents, extreme pressure additives
Calcium - Detergents, dispersants, acid neutralizers
Barium - Corrosion inhibitors, detergents, rust inhibitors
Magnesium - Dispersant, detergent additives, alloying metal
Antimony - Bearing overlay alloy or oil additive
Vanadium - Heavy fuel contaminant

 

[quote author=Dieseldude4x4 link=board=4;threadid=18441;start=0#msg173481 date=1061121111]
Here you go:

They called and talked to me about the hight iron content too.

[/quote]

What did they say? Was there a big jump from the last time or something?

I think that is one thing we are missing here. Comparing 1 persons analysis against another is not going to be a fair comparison. What should be happening here is trending your own piece of equipment against itself.

It's one thing to use analysis to show extended drain capabilites of the oil/engine, but to expect your engine to show the same wear numbers either better or worse can be expected.

This is one of the problems on BITOG site. They over analyze analysis and try to judge how the quality of the oil.

It works to some degree, but what they don't realize is that you compare a sample with 5,000 to one with 8,000 miles of towing your going to get slightly different numbers.

What I would suggest is that you take some samples with your current lube over say 15-20 thousand miles. Then when you switch lubes see if they are different.

I see that you(Gary - KJ6Q) already have a by-pass filter. So I would guess even with a conventional oil it will be much better than the average compared to someone using just a Full Flow filter.

 

I'm a firm believer in by-pass filtration.

I've personally told many a person that they could extend their drains with any commercially available oil if they used a by-pass filter.

The thing is, that when you look at by-pass and sythetics it makes the most sense as then the higher cost of the better quality lube becomes a moot point the longer you run the oil. So that the other benifits then return your investment quicker.

Things like fast flow of the oil, better high temp protection(especially for Turbo Charged vehicles) The better HT/HS viscosity. Usually the higher TBN packages are in lubes that are made for extended drains as well.

The best advice would be to use the same oil analysis company every time. This will allow you to trend more accurately. Also if you use the same one, they will last the previous analysis on the same page for direct comparison. Some even have graphs of various additive/wear metal/contamination levels.

Hope this helps.

 

They were use to seeing oil samples from my older truck. I didn't put synthetic in it till way later in the mileage range. When I told them the mileage I put it in this one and the fact that I was working this one harder, they said OK. I ran that oil another 10000 miles and then changed it out. I sent another sample with 5000 miles on the new oil and the iron was significantly reduced, not even close to that last reading.

 

Gary, I'll email you the last 2 Blackstone Labs results from my truck, as they now offer to email you their reports if you wish 8) They are PDF format, which most people already can read by using Adobe Acrobat, but if you don't have that on your computer, you'll need to get it. It is available for free from Adobe's web site, and a ton of others on the net.

Tom