I've been all over the web trying to get my 00 24v cummins dodge running again and am at the end of my rope. Ran fine til I changed the fuel filter. No start after. Bought and installed a FASS DDRP lift pump and it seems to be working as it should. I cracked the fuel lines at the injectors and there is fuel getting to there. Does that mean my injector pump is OK? I've already replaced the injector pump once and hope like h**l it isn't that again. That work was done by local Cummins dealer about 25k miles ago.

I've seen similar posts about no start after filter change and 90% of the people trying to help lead toward getting all the air out of the lines. Seen a few references to the fuel shutoff solenoid but despite my best efforts I can't even tell if my model/year has such a solenoid much less where it is located...Would I be correct in assuming that if the shutoff solenoid were bad it would not be letting me see fuel at the injectors?

Reading the codes thru the odometer shows me a p1693 (companion code) and contrary to what I've read from Moparman1973's posts I do not get a further reading on the odometer. Just goes back to showing mileage after one "p-done". I have an obdII scanner and it shows me no fault codes.

I have kept my batteries charged thru all my attempts to start and have even had a second vehicle jumped to the truck while trying to start so I don't think low voltage is an issue.....Starter spins it like a top, sounds like it wants to fire but doesn't.


Again, does having fuel at the injectors mean the injector pump is ok?
Checked all the electrical connectors I could see too. There is one odd connector just hanging loose down by the lift pump. It has a cap on it so I suspect it is for a diagnostic tool. Anybody familiar with this?

Appreciate any help. BTW the FASS DDRP was a little problematic. The factory inlet fuel line has a pretty heavy duty bracket molded onto it that I had to grind off before I could bolt the line up to the inlet side.
Thanks in advance for any help offered.

 

that dosnt sounds like a injecton pump problem.. crack injector line one and three and make fuel come out....... if its a manual transmission ROLL start it.. and if its an auto you could always try a little starting fluid, be consertitive when useing it its hard on the grid heater but should get it to fire

that thing hanging down is for diagnostic tool, so you dont have to go through the port under the dash.. i cant rember what its called but some boxes hook up to it like a edge comp box

good luck getting your truck started

 

What is so significant about having fuel come out of 1 and 3? It seems like every post states 1 and 3 and I am wondering why it makes a difference from say 2 and 4?

Joe

 

If you crack the fuel line between the filter and injection pump and turn on the key and bump the starter but dont start do you see fuel?
Sounds like weak lift pump or air in filter can so far!

 

1 and 3 feed from diffrent sides of the pump you have 3 lines that feed from the right side of the pump and 3 lines from the left side of the pump and as it just so happens 1&3 are opposite lines so they bleed better

 

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. Be a day or to before I'll have time to try again. Thanks

 

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. Be a day or to before I'll have time to try again. Thanks

 

Got a minute this morning and tried Dglass' suggestion, Bled 1 and 3 and used a little starting fluid. Almost starts but no go.
I'm going to double check every fuse in the truck next. Anybody know how to test relays like the ones found in the fusebox under the hood?

 

Red Goat, fuel pump is new. Fass DDRP (Direct Dodge Replacement Pump). LOTS of fuel when I crack the inlet line at the injector pump. What comes out at the injectors ain't a lot but I don't think it is suppose to be a lot right?

 

Is the grid heater on the driver side or passenger (air intake) side? There is an aluminum housing above the inj. pump that gets warm when I try starting. Not sure if that is the grid heater or fuel warmer. I'm in Alaska and it's still pretty cool temps here.

 

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

 

Definitely sounds like air in the lines. It was running fine until the filter change, correct? With fuel at the injectors, vp44 is working fine. Have someone crank it, and start opening one line at a time up at the head until fuel comes out, then tighten up while still cranking starter. You can easily get to 5, 4, 3 & 1 injector lines.

Had a booger of time bleeding mine after replacing vp44, until I got someone else to crank the starter while I wrenched on lines. Stick with it you'll get it.

 

Great link Russ lot of good info there, I bookmarked it.
Chaser, I'll give it another shot with a helper cranking...makes sense.
Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, that was very helpful to me when mine quit and I thought it was the IP. Turned out I was not cranking it long enough to get fuel at the injectors. That happened last summer and so far all is good.

 

WD40 can be a good starting aid!
Same thing though, you need a helper to turn the engine over while you spray it into the intake!
Shoving the fuel pedal down to about 3/4 wouldnt hurt as well!