Just got my truck out from storage for the winter. (2001 24 valve 2500 2wd) Truck ran fine on the way home, about 6 miles. Changed the oil, air filter and fuel filter, also removed battery terminals to clean them up. After putting in new filter, ran lift pump to fill filter housing and no fuel would come. O.K., time for a new lift pump.

Installed new lift pump, got truck started and ran it to town to get inspected. Put 25 gal.s of fuel in it plus some FPPF Fuel Power treatment. After getting inspected, thought I'd take the truck for a spin and get it up to speed. Noticed going through town with the window down that I could hear a slight whistling noise that I don't remember hearing before. Got out of town and stepped on it some and have no power, seems like the turbo isn't kicking in. If I rev it up in the driveway it seems to stumble around 2500rpm. I know it was working fine yesterday when I brought it back home.

I'm showing codes 0237, 0522 and 0121. What should I do? Daughter wants to use the truck to go to her prom tomorrow night. Any help appreciated.

Tyler

 

Rodent chewed holes in turbo boots?? Blew off a turbo boot?

Pull intake boot and check turbo bearings, air filter for obstructions/proper installation?

Wastegate malfunctioning?

Just throwing stuff out there.....

 

Check all of the bolts on the intake plate. Did you remove the fuel filter to get to the pump? Make sure all the intake bolts are tight. If so then check the intercooler boots to see if the boots are all on and that the clamps are tight. I have had both of these issues on my truck and they both gave a whistling noise like a turbo whine but more steady.

Rick

 

Kurt and Rick;

Thank you both for the replies. I have to admitt that I'm quite ignorant when it comes to these engines and don't know what's what.

What is the turbo boot, intake boot, intercooler boot and what is the intake plate? Yes, I did remove the fuel filter cannister to get to the lift pump.

How do I check the turbo bearings? I do remember I read that one of the banjo bolts for the fuel pump was supposed to have two washers on it but it only had on when I removed it so I re- installed it with only one. Maybe I put the washer in the wrong place on one of the banjos?

Just seems funny that the truck ran fine until after I fixed it!

Thanks again
Tyler

 

You may have just found your own problem if that missing washer was on the tank side of the lift pump. You will be pulling air in at the missing washer. Not good for power and real bad for the injection pump. The intake plate I am talking about is the flat plate under the the bolts you removed to take the filter assembly out. It runs the length of the head on the drivers side facing up. The boots are the rubber connectors between the turbo and the metal pipes and the intercooler. Just follow the pipes from the turbo towards the front of the truck and you will get the idea. You might also want to pull the cover on your air cleaner to make sure mice did not eat the air cleaner and the residue ended up in the turbo. That would not be good.

Rick

 

Hi Rick

Didn't have time to work on the truck today but will again tomorrow.
Do the washers go on both sides of the banjo bolt and where would I get the correct washers? Will check the boots and other stuff tomorrow but like you, I'm betting it could be the missing washer causing my problem. Maybe there were two on there but I only found one, 'course I was standing on my head when I removed it so it's possible I droppped one.
Thank you again.

Tyler

 

One on either side of every banjo fitting, use new ones on all. should be able to get them at Dodge. I have reused the old ones and had trouble just about every time. If you took the fuel line off of the fitting to make it easier to install make sure it is fully seated back on the metal line.

Rick

 

Thanks again Rick. Will get some washers Monday and report back on my results.

Tyler

 

I'm back.

Checked all connections, air cleaner, boots. you name it, everything looked good. Installed 2 new washers on each banjo bolt and took it for a spin, turbo now working! (big thanks Rick) The turbo does seem to have a little lag to it, though, and I think it did last fall when I stopped driving it. At what rpm is it supposed to kick in? Once it does there's plenty of power there.
Still have the same codes, 237, 121 and 522 and noticed my oil pressure gauge is acting a little weird . Disconnected the batteries for an hour and tried the pedal thing but didn't notice any difference. What should I do about these codes, time to go to the dealer?

Tyler

 

Nice work.

You can remove the induction elbow from the air cleaner box to the turbo and check the turbo bearing for axial(side to side) play. Make sure it is cool and wiggle it side to side. It should have a slight play, and no oil stains in the inlet.

Make sure it is clean before you re-instal.

 

It is going to take a while to work the air out of the system unless you really hammer on it. I have never really been a fan of that. A couple of days of normal driving will work out an left over air. Did the codes re-appear after the battery disconnect? If they did then you have an issue with whatever is setting them, I do not have my list in front of me. Have you checked all of the grounds? A bad ground to the ECM or PCM could give you codes and strange running issues.
The turbo takes a couple of seconds to spool up. It is not instant, you mash the pedal and then wait for it.The power is also not all at once, it builds as the rpm goes up.
Rick

 

Sixslug; thanks for the info, I'll check the turbo bearings.

Rick; Yes, the codes re-appeared after I disconected the batteries, same ones as before except the little spigot-thingy under the water -in-fuel light went out. Where are the grounds to the ECM and PCM?
Thanks again guys.

Tyler

 

121 - APPS voltage too low
237 - MAP sensor voltage too low
522 - Oil pressure voltage too low

I'd say that you have some connections to get cleaned up.

 

What condition are the batteries in? If they are borderline you may get those codes or if your alternator is on it's way out but I think you have a bad ground issue. I don't have my manual in front of me but there is one right at the drivers side battery on the radiator support. I am sure someone will chime in with the other locations on the block.

Rick

 

Something else to look at is the condition of your battery cables and ends.

Crudded up terminals and oxidized cables don't carry current as well.