New Purchase FAQ?
New Purchase FAQ?
I'm sorta surprised there isn't an FAQ for this...
I'm looking at going newer from my 94. I have a line on an 01. I'm a standard guy, this has auto... I'm a 12V guy, this has 24... so...
When I take it to the mechanic to get checked out, what things do I want looked at "extra carefully"? I've been told it has had the front end totally rebuilt (but I haven't seen the receipts yet to know just what this means...). I know I should probably put something like a bully dog or a FASS in, but that is after the fact... I need to know before the fact, as well as what is probably wise after the fact...
Thanks
I'm looking at going newer from my 94. I have a line on an 01. I'm a standard guy, this has auto... I'm a 12V guy, this has 24... so...
When I take it to the mechanic to get checked out, what things do I want looked at "extra carefully"? I've been told it has had the front end totally rebuilt (but I haven't seen the receipts yet to know just what this means...). I know I should probably put something like a bully dog or a FASS in, but that is after the fact... I need to know before the fact, as well as what is probably wise after the fact...
Thanks
I have an 2001 Automatic, Ext Cab 2wd 8' bed. The only real problem I have ever had with mine is the fuel system. The injection pump had already been replaced at 66,000, I purchased the truck at 90,000 miles and I am replacing the VP$$ again at 166,000. I lost the factory lift pump which probably caused this one, Make sure you install a fuel pressure gage on any 24 valve so you will know when it is going out. I replaced my lift pump with a FASS DDRP because I have no mods on the truck, no need to go bigger.
I had Cummins shop do the 100,000 mile valve adjustment to the tune of $400.
I did a tranny svc myself at 100,000.
The torque converter started locking and unlocking erratically and bought the little box to fix that problem.
The fuel and the TC problems should be well documented in the archives.
It is also time for new tires and exhaust, but that is to be expected.
I have driven the truck about 70,000 + miles and it has cost me an extra 2K since I purchased it.
I have thought of going to a third generation, but nah, I really love this truck!
....gary
I had Cummins shop do the 100,000 mile valve adjustment to the tune of $400.
I did a tranny svc myself at 100,000.
The torque converter started locking and unlocking erratically and bought the little box to fix that problem.
The fuel and the TC problems should be well documented in the archives.
It is also time for new tires and exhaust, but that is to be expected.
I have driven the truck about 70,000 + miles and it has cost me an extra 2K since I purchased it.
I have thought of going to a third generation, but nah, I really love this truck!
....gary
I spent nearly a grand getting new ball joints put on the front end... Sounds like thats already been taken care of for you. Fueling and 53 blocks are the only other major concerns I have heard of that are unique to the 24's.
The autos are prone to failure, especially if you are modding, and as he has said above, nearly all of them have a problem with the TC not locking up properly, which can usually be fixed by cleaning grounds and replacing the battery terminal, no box required here.
The autos are prone to failure, especially if you are modding, and as he has said above, nearly all of them have a problem with the TC not locking up properly, which can usually be fixed by cleaning grounds and replacing the battery terminal, no box required here.
DTR's Locomotive Superhero and the DTR Sweet Tea Specialist
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,883
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From: Valparaiso, IN
I'm sorta surprised there isn't an FAQ for this...
I'm looking at going newer from my 94. I have a line on an 01. I'm a standard guy, this has auto... I'm a 12V guy, this has 24... so...
When I take it to the mechanic to get checked out, what things do I want looked at "extra carefully"? I've been told it has had the front end totally rebuilt (but I haven't seen the receipts yet to know just what this means...). I know I should probably put something like a bully dog or a FASS in, but that is after the fact... I need to know before the fact, as well as what is probably wise after the fact...
Thanks
I'm looking at going newer from my 94. I have a line on an 01. I'm a standard guy, this has auto... I'm a 12V guy, this has 24... so...
When I take it to the mechanic to get checked out, what things do I want looked at "extra carefully"? I've been told it has had the front end totally rebuilt (but I haven't seen the receipts yet to know just what this means...). I know I should probably put something like a bully dog or a FASS in, but that is after the fact... I need to know before the fact, as well as what is probably wise after the fact...
Thanks
Like others said, check the fuel pressure, check for trouble codes, and a good inspection before buying it. If the code p0216 show ups that means the Injection pump is starting to go. If you buy this 01 24v truck, fill it with good fuel and a good lubricity additive.
Another note, the KDP can still be possible in the 01 models. Might want to pull the front cover after you purchase it to double chek that you have the updated timing case or the old case that allow the kdp to move out of it's bore. I'm checking my 02 for the kdp next week, better safe than sorry.
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