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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #106  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Originally Posted by rattlerbob5.9
Yes the plugs on the filter are a good place to hook in the gauge one is pre filter the other is post which is what the injection pump receives.

I know you will ask me, if i remember correctly the inner is the post one but i am not 100 percent sure at the moment.

Yes the pump should self prime and the closer you mount it to the fuel tank the better it will work if you really want to do it right.

If this truck is in nice/no rust shape maybe you should just PM me and i can buy it to save you all the trouble of fixing it and dealing with him from now on

Make sure there is a decent amount of fuel in the tank and open the cap it should fill the filter no problem.
You need to bump the starter to get the 20-30 second run time just turning the key on won't do it.
What do you mean..."the closer you mount it to the tank"?
I'm not adding a lift pump just requesting info about the OE unit.

And yes, the truck is mint just over 30,000 miles on it.
I keep telling him I'll buy it but he's one of those 80 year old fellers that won't sell anything!

Hmmmm, a 'electric' fuel pump that only pumps when the engine is cranking/running!
Why didn't Cummins just use a mechanical one??????????
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #107  
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by HammerDown
What do you mean..."the closer you mount it to the tank"?
I'm not adding a lift pump just requesting info about the OE unit.

And yes, the truck is mint just over 30,000 miles on it.
I keep telling him I'll buy it but he's one of those 80 year old fellers that won't sell anything!

Hmmmm, a 'electric' fuel pump that only pumps when the engine is cranking/running!
Why didn't Cummins just use a mechanical one??????????
There is a kit to move the OEM lift pump back by the tank where it will work much better. Electric pumps push fuel much better than they can pull it.

Fix the factory screw up and it will perform better and last longer.

I run a walbro 392 (positive displacement gearotor style pump) on the frame rail and larger line cheaper and better than the factory carter + small lines.

By the way why would you want an electric pump to run other than when the engine is cranking or running (your comment)
When else would you need it running ?
Unless when parked to test how long the battery's will last ?
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 06:55 AM
  #108  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Originally Posted by rattlerbob5.9
There is a kit to move the OEM lift pump back by the tank where it will work much better. Electric pumps push fuel much better than they can pull it.

Fix the factory screw up and it will perform better and last longer.

I run a walbro 392 (positive displacement gearotor style pump) on the frame rail and larger line cheaper and better than the factory carter + small lines.

By the way why would you want an electric pump to run other than when the engine is cranking or running (your comment)
When else would you need it running ?

Unless when parked to test how long the battery's will last ?
Thanks for the clarification...I seriously doubt my 81-year old neighbor will want to relocate the fuel pump but, maybe if I inherit it I'll do the mod

I phrased my question wrong about the electric pump...
(if) the electric pump is pushing fuel when the key is turned on, then > to bleed out the air in the line 'after' changing out the bad lift pump > couldn't one simply crack open the line where it enters the IP or filter until fuel exits? vs bumping the engine over several times to prime the system?

The reason I ask...several 7.3 IDI owners opt for the Holley Red lift pump vs the OE mechanical one like I still use. They like the Holley/electric because, when changing the fuel filter > they simply turn the key to 'run' depress the schrader-valve at the filter head and the Holley PRIMES the empty filter.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #109  
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VP44. The Injector pump.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #110  
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From: Celina, TX
Originally Posted by HammerDown
Thanks for the clarification...I seriously doubt my 81-year old neighbor will want to relocate the fuel pump but, maybe if I inherit it I'll do the mod

I phrased my question wrong about the electric pump...
(if) the electric pump is pushing fuel when the key is turned on, then > to bleed out the air in the line 'after' changing out the bad lift pump > couldn't one simply crack open the line where it enters the IP or filter until fuel exits? vs bumping the engine over several times to prime the system?

The reason I ask...several 7.3 IDI owners opt for the Holley Red lift pump vs the OE mechanical one like I still use. They like the Holley/electric because, when changing the fuel filter > they simply turn the key to 'run' depress the schrader-valve at the filter head and the Holley PRIMES the empty filter.
With the stock LP, you just need to bump the starter and it will run for ~30 seconds to help prime the system. It doesn't run full time as long as the key is in Run to prevent battery drain with the key on, but as long as you bump the starter it will go into a priming cycle.

But I have discovered that just cause you hear it running doesn't mean it's priming. When it actually picks up fuel, you can hear it change tone slightly to where it's actually working. Then you can depress one of the schraders to bleed the air from the lines as it primes.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 10:13 PM
  #111  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Update...

Thanks for all the help past and present...but I give up trying to help someone that keeps interrupting me and seems to have all the answers.
Personally I think it's his old age and maybe his thoughts slipping a little. Time for his two 'well-to-do' sons to worry about it.
Thanks again, Ray
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:20 PM
  #112  
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From: Michigan
Talking

Originally Posted by HammerDown
Thanks for all the help past and present...but I give up trying to help someone that keeps interrupting me and seems to have all the answers.
Personally I think it's his old age and maybe his thoughts slipping a little. Time for his two 'well-to-do' sons to worry about it.
Thanks again, Ray
See i was telling you the truth and giving good advice when i said if it was nice you should set me up to buy it and i would save you all the future pain and problems of dealing with it.

Some people refuse to be helped at least you tried.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #113  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Question

Originally Posted by rattlerbob5.9
There is a kit to move the OEM lift pump back by the tank where it will work much better. Electric pumps push fuel much better than they can pull it.

Fix the factory screw up and it will perform better and last longer.

I run a walbro 392 (positive displacement gearotor style pump) on the frame rail and larger line cheaper and better than the factory carter + small lines.
So I'm back again >>> neighbor now wants info on this "KIT".
Where can he get it, what's in the kit and should he go for the walbro lift pump???

Thanks for any further feedback, Ray
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #114  
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From: Streator Illinois
The "kit" is available from your local Dodge dealer, it is expensive, and IMHO a worse POS that the original. They go out just like the engine mounted units, perhaps not as often, but a HUGE pain to change.

Forget the devils harness band aid and do a frame mounted pump back by the tank, at least you don;t have to drop the tank should it dump, never fun by the side of the road.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #115  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Question

So would he be better off just mounting something like a Holley Red pump near the fuel tank???
His trucks been sitting for a few weeks now.
The insulting thing > the local Dodge dealer told him "we don't work on it but, will take it in on a trade for a new one"
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by HammerDown
So would he be better off just mounting something like a Holley Red pump near the fuel tank???
His trucks been sitting for a few weeks now.
The insulting thing > the local Dodge dealer told him "we don't work on it but, will take it in on a trade for a new one"
Perhaps you should do a little research. Many have their opinion about what is "best". There are several common options and much discussion about relative merits of each. You need fuel pressure to the VP. Any of the pumps will get that. For how long and at what price is the question. Your choice.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #117  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Originally Posted by Junk Man
Perhaps you should do a little research. Many have their opinion about what is "best". There are several common options and much discussion about relative merits of each. You need fuel pressure to the VP. Any of the pumps will get that. For how long and at what price is the question. Your choice.
That's why I'm here > doing research in what I thought was the appropriate Forum...
If the "kit is a POS" then I'll tell him not to get it.
If plumbing in a Red Holley fuel pump is a better idea I'll suggest that to him.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by HammerDown
That's why I'm here > doing research in what I thought was the appropriate Forum...
If the "kit is a POS" then I'll tell him not to get it.
If plumbing in a Red Holley fuel pump is a better idea I'll suggest that to him.
I've noticed that more information regarding a specific situation can be found by searching instead of posting. VPs and fuel systems are discussed in minute detail on many forums. Some info is useful. Others not so much.

"Better" depends on the user's priorities. Some want cheap. Others want fast. Others want long life.......

Some (see bluechip (ie research)) state that the VP only needs 5#. Others are debating whether or not it needs more than 14# to force the OF valve open. Still others get into disabling the LP to avoid hard starts. Some swear by the DDRP, others mandate FASS, others AirDog for 1 reason or another. Still others simply regurgitate information they have read and promote it as gospel.

Once he has fuel & gauges (mechanical, electric - the debate goes on), the discussion turns to fuel additives then alternative fuel. Which brings me back to my recommendation of research - which doesn't necessarily mean simply posting.

Alternatively, if he'd like to send me $100, I won't fix it either but at least he won't be out much and won't get grease on his hands.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #119  
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From: Glenolden Pa
Originally Posted by Junk Man
I've noticed that more information regarding a specific situation can be found by searching instead of posting. VPs and fuel systems are discussed in minute detail on many forums. Some info is useful. Others not so much.

"Better" depends on the user's priorities. Some want cheap. Others want fast. Others want long life.......

Some (see bluechip (ie research)) state that the VP only needs 5#. Others are debating whether or not it needs more than 14# to force the OF valve open. Still others get into disabling the LP to avoid hard starts. Some swear by the DDRP, others mandate FASS, others AirDog for 1 reason or another. Still others simply regurgitate information they have read and promote it as gospel.

Once he has fuel & gauges (mechanical, electric - the debate goes on), the discussion turns to fuel additives then alternative fuel. Which brings me back to my recommendation of research - which doesn't necessarily mean simply posting.

Alternatively, if he'd like to send me $100, I won't fix it either but at least he won't be out much and won't get grease on his hands.
I'm hip to all the above and thanks for the reply.

Being my neighbor is 81, I would think he's just after his truck to run longer than he will.
33,000 miles on a 1999 ain't much and seriously doubt he puts 1000 a year on it anymore.
I've known him for some 50 years > I respect and try to help him like I would my own father. However, he has two sons that seem to miss out on all the work/fun yet will inherit the truck so, I have to keep my work-load in-check too.

Knowing my neighbor very well >>> I would say he's looking for a cheap, easy fix that will last longer than when I first started this thread some 4 years ago > and very few miles put on since then.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #120  
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From: Where water boils at 193.4°
This is what I'll be using when the time comes. Click Here. It uses the stock wiring and mount and you don't loose your fuel heater. I don't like the idea of having the pump and filters exposed on the frame rail to water, snow and rocks, etc.
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