need help dont understand
need help dont understand
i got a fass 150 pump around 2 months ago. well i just hooked up the fuel pressure gauge to the pump and its reading 9-10.. psi at idle. the pump is brand new not even 1k miles on it yet
need some more info.
what brand and type of fuel pressure gauge. mechanical? electrical?
where did you tap into the fuel system to get reading?
is your fass150 the style that is pump with filters.
or fass150 pump only and you use the stock fuel filter.
I use only a fass 150 pump only and use the factory filter.
What kind of gauge? Mech or electric? Air in mech gauge line can lower pressure readings...
Also, FASS has excellent customer service, at least they did when I needed their support..
Also, FASS has excellent customer service, at least they did when I needed their support..
It has electrical gauges (glow-shift double visions). It has a FASS 150 in-tank pump; the number is 'T D07 150G' on the FASS website. I didn't tap the FASS 150 pump, it has a "g" port on the pump you hook into for the fuel pressure gauge. Also- yes "Titanium Series Diesel Fuel Lift Pump 150GPH Dodge Cummins 5.9L and 6.7L 2005-2015'. My truck's a 2001 but my lift pump was not on the block, so I had to go with the newer in-tank pump for the newer models (said the guy from the FASS website.) The truck idles at 9 psi, where it should be around 18 psi. When I hammer on it, it goes up to 12 psi when it should be dropping or not moving at all. I have a snubber valve going into the'g' port on the lift pump to restrict fuel pressure spikes. Should I take it off?
Most likely the gauge and or gauge sender is bad and reading incorrectly. Research that particular gauge manufacture and you'll find that they're overly problematic. Quality gauges is the only way to go, and even at that, keeping a test port in place so you can always confirm with a fuel pressure test gauge is a great way to determine if the problem is the gauge or the pump.
I have to agree with the gauge being bad, the only other thing could be maybe getting low voltage to the pump.
The engine revs should be using more fuel and pressure should go down. could be the coinciding boost from spinning the alternator faster gives more juice to the pump making it run faster or more voltage to the guage making it read higher.
The engine revs should be using more fuel and pressure should go down. could be the coinciding boost from spinning the alternator faster gives more juice to the pump making it run faster or more voltage to the guage making it read higher.
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I thought they were high quality gauges paid like 380 for them if not more. And now this is really weird. When I got up this morning and turned on my truck. The psi isn't at 9 no more.. it's at 12 now.. I don't get it. Could there be air in the line or do you guys think they are the gauges or pump? This is confusing. All I know is I spent good money for everything so why isn't it working right..
Sad to say for your situation, but GS gauges are low quality and have a reputation for problems. They look cool and have become popular, but looks alone aren't going to assure you're getting the correct reading.
But aside from that, what happens to these electric fuel pressure gauges is the sender gets beat up from the hydrodynamic fluid pulses created by the VP. Thats why a dedicated snubber or needle valve, or both, is necessary to dampen those pulses. So you could be battling three different problems, gauge and sender.....or fuel pump. This is why having the option to use a test gauge is so important.
But aside from that, what happens to these electric fuel pressure gauges is the sender gets beat up from the hydrodynamic fluid pulses created by the VP. Thats why a dedicated snubber or needle valve, or both, is necessary to dampen those pulses. So you could be battling three different problems, gauge and sender.....or fuel pump. This is why having the option to use a test gauge is so important.
Ok so just get a fuel pressure tester and see what that one's reading instead of relaying on my gauges. The guy from fads emailed me back saying crimp the hose and something about a spring and a ball and stretch it. Don't know hope I figure out what's wrong soon
I'm not sure about the "crimp the hose" part but the spring and ball part is referring to the regulator and changing the fuel pressure. I'd certainly verify the gauges accuracy before changing any pressure settings on the fuel pump though.
Ok guys I want your opinion instead of spending 180 on a pressure tester should I just buy a new fuel pressure gauge and hook it up and see what it's at. If so tell me a good gauge. Oh and do you guys think my boost and pyro gauges should be fine.. I hope.. they are maxtow GS..
Yes, you can rent one from your local parts store. The way they do it around here is to "rent" the part, you pay for the part and have 48 hours to return it for a 100% refund.....as long as its not damaged. So you may be able to rent a pretty quality test gauge for nothing.
Or if you want your own, you can get one like this at Geno's. Vulcan Performance Fuel Pressure Test Kit-Geno's Garage I have one and it works well.
In regards to boost and EGT's, well you can almost verify with other members to the numbers you're getting under specific situations to see if the collaborate with whats "normal". You cant do that with fuel pressure.
Or if you want your own, you can get one like this at Geno's. Vulcan Performance Fuel Pressure Test Kit-Geno's Garage I have one and it works well.
In regards to boost and EGT's, well you can almost verify with other members to the numbers you're getting under specific situations to see if the collaborate with whats "normal". You cant do that with fuel pressure.







