My Truck is smokin please help!
My Truck is smokin please help!
I have a stock Dodge Ram 02 2500 5.9 TD 4x4
I replaced the lift pump a few months ago and was advised to replace the VP 44 as it would soon die. I have driven about 5 to 6000 mile since then. I keep driving because before the problem was so subtle that I felt like I would replace everything before finding the solution. I wanted the engine to die so that it would be obvious.
At this point, when I start the engine it smokes like a train! It is lighter in color. After about 10 min of running. Warmed up to temp, it goes away. The other curious part is that there is a partial power loss during this period that I am able to reset by turning off the truck and then right back on then it is gone for only a short time and the power loss returns. Like I said before, this is usually only during the first 10 minutes of running. To me, it seems like an injector is pouring unburnt fuel through one of the cylinders. Oh, if I gun the engine to 3500rpm (redline) it will clear for a short while and run normal.
One more point. My truck seems to run hotter. When I climb hills under load, the temp will go right to redline after a short while. A year ago I used to pull a 3k trailer in addition to my 3k camper. it never got that hot. However I am lighter now and hotter than ever! Maybe this is a timing issue? Does the engine have some sort of failsafe that it goes to after a several seconds after startup? Parimeters that work under all conditions but not optimal.
Please help
Thanks
I replaced the lift pump a few months ago and was advised to replace the VP 44 as it would soon die. I have driven about 5 to 6000 mile since then. I keep driving because before the problem was so subtle that I felt like I would replace everything before finding the solution. I wanted the engine to die so that it would be obvious.
At this point, when I start the engine it smokes like a train! It is lighter in color. After about 10 min of running. Warmed up to temp, it goes away. The other curious part is that there is a partial power loss during this period that I am able to reset by turning off the truck and then right back on then it is gone for only a short time and the power loss returns. Like I said before, this is usually only during the first 10 minutes of running. To me, it seems like an injector is pouring unburnt fuel through one of the cylinders. Oh, if I gun the engine to 3500rpm (redline) it will clear for a short while and run normal.
One more point. My truck seems to run hotter. When I climb hills under load, the temp will go right to redline after a short while. A year ago I used to pull a 3k trailer in addition to my 3k camper. it never got that hot. However I am lighter now and hotter than ever! Maybe this is a timing issue? Does the engine have some sort of failsafe that it goes to after a several seconds after startup? Parimeters that work under all conditions but not optimal.
Please helpThanks
Have you gotten any codes? I think on the 02's you can cycle the key switch on/off three times and you will see if there are any codes.
When you say the temp goes right to redline. Are you talking about EGTs or coolant temp?
Also, are you out of warranty?
When you say the temp goes right to redline. Are you talking about EGTs or coolant temp?
Also, are you out of warranty?
Sorry about the lack of detail. The coolant temp. I have 135k. I have gotten the 0216 code b4 but I have driven another 10k miles since I first got it. I ain't replacing the vp 44 until it drops dead. I have replaced the lift pump however. I was also told to check the filter in the tank. Clean! As we speak, I am doing the APPS reset.
I keep hearing something about a cliped wire? What is that all about?
I keep hearing something about a cliped wire? What is that all about?
Not sure on the clipped wire? You might want to check your thermostat to make sure you don't overheat the engine. Is your fan clutch working?
Usually, white smoke in conjuntion with the injection pump code (0216) is incorrect injection pump timing. White smoke is fuel not being burned.
Sounds like the vp44 will be giving up the ghost soon.
Usually, white smoke in conjuntion with the injection pump code (0216) is incorrect injection pump timing. White smoke is fuel not being burned.
Sounds like the vp44 will be giving up the ghost soon.
I understand that there is no ignition on our engines. So the only timing that we have is fuel timing. The only problem I have with the idea of the VP 44, is that 10K miles ago I was given the same advice and it is still going. Although I am prepared to get another one when it goes. After the engine warms up, the white smoke seems to go away. Then it runs as normal.
I have poor gas mileage compared with only a few months ago. Now I am also overheating while hill climbing. Is it possible or likely that 1 injector is bad? That might make sense....running on 5 cyl instead of 6 would make any engine overheat. What do you think?
What about the MAP sensor? I have heard about people cleaning them. What effect does that have?
I have poor gas mileage compared with only a few months ago. Now I am also overheating while hill climbing. Is it possible or likely that 1 injector is bad? That might make sense....running on 5 cyl instead of 6 would make any engine overheat. What do you think?
What about the MAP sensor? I have heard about people cleaning them. What effect does that have?
i think by "clipped" wire, you meant "pierced" wire. i cant think off the top of my head which wire it is but try Edge Products for their installation instructions for the 98-02 Edge Comp. it should say what wire is pierced and show you a picture as well.
but this really wont do you much good, no warranty left anyways.
there was a thread not too long ago about someone's VP44 going south, try searching through a few pages of the "24 valve engine and drivetrain".
try taking out the injectors to have tested. if they come back good, then start saving for the VP44.
hows the fuel pressure?......no gauge? GET ONE!!!
also, fill in your "signature" to let us know your vehicle specs and other goodies you may have added.
Pat
but this really wont do you much good, no warranty left anyways.
there was a thread not too long ago about someone's VP44 going south, try searching through a few pages of the "24 valve engine and drivetrain".
try taking out the injectors to have tested. if they come back good, then start saving for the VP44.
hows the fuel pressure?......no gauge? GET ONE!!!
also, fill in your "signature" to let us know your vehicle specs and other goodies you may have added.
Pat
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"One more point. My truck seems to run hotter. When I climb hills under load, the temp will go right to redline after a short while. A year ago I used to pull a 3k trailer in addition to my 3k camper. it never got that hot. However I am lighter now and hotter than ever! Maybe this is a timing issue? Does the engine have some sort of failsafe that it goes to after a several seconds after startup?"
Do you drive much on dusty roads or off-road? My over-heating problem was not as bad as yours, but I solved it by flushing the radiators from the "back" side. I was amazed at how much junk came out of there.
Don't use high pressure, just a water hose with a hand spray attachment will work. I made one out of a copper tube and a cut-off valve. Crimp the end of the pipe and saw a slot across of it toward the end of the pipe. It will fit in between the fan shroud and the inter cooler/ac radiators also.
Do you drive much on dusty roads or off-road? My over-heating problem was not as bad as yours, but I solved it by flushing the radiators from the "back" side. I was amazed at how much junk came out of there.
Don't use high pressure, just a water hose with a hand spray attachment will work. I made one out of a copper tube and a cut-off valve. Crimp the end of the pipe and saw a slot across of it toward the end of the pipe. It will fit in between the fan shroud and the inter cooler/ac radiators also.
Originally posted by crobtex
"One more point. My truck seems to run hotter. When I climb hills under load, the temp will go right to redline after a short while. A year ago I used to pull a 3k trailer in addition to my 3k camper. it never got that hot. However I am lighter now and hotter than ever! Maybe this is a timing issue? Does the engine have some sort of failsafe that it goes to after a several seconds after startup?"
Do you drive much on dusty roads or off-road? My over-heating problem was not as bad as yours, but I solved it by flushing the radiators from the "back" side. I was amazed at how much junk came out of there.
Don't use high pressure, just a water hose with a hand spray attachment will work. I made one out of a copper tube and a cut-off valve. Crimp the end of the pipe and saw a slot across of it toward the end of the pipe. It will fit in between the fan shroud and the inter cooler/ac radiators also.
"One more point. My truck seems to run hotter. When I climb hills under load, the temp will go right to redline after a short while. A year ago I used to pull a 3k trailer in addition to my 3k camper. it never got that hot. However I am lighter now and hotter than ever! Maybe this is a timing issue? Does the engine have some sort of failsafe that it goes to after a several seconds after startup?"
Do you drive much on dusty roads or off-road? My over-heating problem was not as bad as yours, but I solved it by flushing the radiators from the "back" side. I was amazed at how much junk came out of there.
Don't use high pressure, just a water hose with a hand spray attachment will work. I made one out of a copper tube and a cut-off valve. Crimp the end of the pipe and saw a slot across of it toward the end of the pipe. It will fit in between the fan shroud and the inter cooler/ac radiators also.
I can't say that I go off road or live in a dusty area. But I have killed more than my share of bugs on the highway. Thanks for the radiator advice. I cleaned it a week ago from the front. I was a little puzzled about how I was going to do much better without pulling the whole thing outta there.
I am planning on pulling the exhaust manifold to see if any one cyl is giving out more smoke than another. I did start up it today. The smoke is definately white.
I have also read about people pulling the MAP sensor and cleaning it. Any thoughts on this? Or is that a completely different problem.
I am planning on pulling the exhaust manifold to see if any one cyl is giving out more smoke than another. I did start up it today. The smoke is definately white.
I have also read about people pulling the MAP sensor and cleaning it. Any thoughts on this? Or is that a completely different problem.
Your lift pump is the culprit. I have same exact symptoms as you and have had for over 45000 miles. Do you occasionally get the dead pedal syndrome while driving at a constant speed at around 45-55 mph??? Since you are out of warranty drive it till it gives up the ghost for good. Just be careful and not put yourself in a situation that you need to floor it to get out of the way, cause you might not get any extra fuel to giddy up out of the way.
Gary
Gary
It sounds like the timing portion of your pump is screwed up. This happens when the pump is run on low fuel pressure.
The timing controls how easy (or hard) the truck is to start (especially when hot), controls the timing at all throttle positions,, too much timing at certain throttle positions will produce excessive smoke, and th overheating MIGHT be ebcause of extremely low timing, or a boost leak.
All the symptoms you are having could also be caused by a Bad MAP sensor, but it's probably the '44.
Merrick
The timing controls how easy (or hard) the truck is to start (especially when hot), controls the timing at all throttle positions,, too much timing at certain throttle positions will produce excessive smoke, and th overheating MIGHT be ebcause of extremely low timing, or a boost leak.
All the symptoms you are having could also be caused by a Bad MAP sensor, but it's probably the '44.
Merrick
I looked at the radiator behind the other two. It couldn't cool anything. It had about 1/4" of bug and oil mix. I'll have to clean that! I have looked in the radiator and the coolant is full. I don't think I am loosing any.
I did figure out where the bypass valve is. However I must note that I accidentally opened the main fuel line first. When I started it, it seemed leaner than usual. I was able to lightly push on the bypass valve and open it. Should it be that easy? I know that it should open at about 14psi but I don't have a low pressure source to test it. Are they that expensive?
I found the MAP sensor and disconnected it. The engine didn't seem to run any different with it on or off.
I did figure out where the bypass valve is. However I must note that I accidentally opened the main fuel line first. When I started it, it seemed leaner than usual. I was able to lightly push on the bypass valve and open it. Should it be that easy? I know that it should open at about 14psi but I don't have a low pressure source to test it. Are they that expensive?
I found the MAP sensor and disconnected it. The engine didn't seem to run any different with it on or off.
another IP...LOL
i bought my truck used with a FASS and some work done to it...the truck threw the 0216 code on the day i bought it but i didnt know any better. almost 19k miles, and 10 months later my truck is on its last leg...it goes in for the new IP on wednesday
i bought my truck used with a FASS and some work done to it...the truck threw the 0216 code on the day i bought it but i didnt know any better. almost 19k miles, and 10 months later my truck is on its last leg...it goes in for the new IP on wednesday


