Metal Stitching to repair cracked #53 block
I am going to attempt to negotiate some of the labor with Cummins before I make a final decision..........$3200.00 is a lot of $ to fix a known and admitted manufacturing defect. I'll keep you posted.
it may be a known manufacturing defect , when DC purchase these engine they also decided to not purchase these engine with any warranty. and you have seen what DC will do for you. with Cummins you will end up with a recon engine basically, any parts that are reused have to meet specs. or be replaced. and you will get a warranty with the engine.
repair update
I found a machinist experienced with metal stitching to repair my block. He was able to do the repair "in frame" which made it much more affordable. The repair turned out very good and as of this date no leaking. He is located in central KY and if anyone would like his contact info send me a PM and I will give you his info. Additionally, I had a very interesting turn of events in my negotiations with Cummins; again anyone who is interested can PM me and I will explain. (if you have a cracked 53 you might want to hear about it).
That offer from Cummins is a pretty good one, I would go that route if you can scare up the cash. They will have to do a top knotch job on rebiulding the engine because their warranty will be on it. The other thing is with the lock stich method you will be a 1/3 of the way there with no guarantee that it will not continue.
Good Luck
Steve
Good Luck
Steve
Update anyone?
Who has had this procedure done to there truck? I noticed this has been done about 7 months ago so, how is the repair holding up? I tow a trailer probably less than 6k and that is about 6 times a year. Other than that I just drive locally with some highway use. Is this repair for me. I know the block c/o is the right answer but I think I am the 3rd owner.
Who has had this procedure done to there truck? I noticed this has been done about 7 months ago so, how is the repair holding up? I tow a trailer probably less than 6k and that is about 6 times a year. Other than that I just drive locally with some highway use. Is this repair for me. I know the block c/o is the right answer but I think I am the 3rd owner.
As silly and as simple as it sounds, I have used JB Weld to seal up an engine. It's been 7-8 years ago, and I think it was an 930 Case tractor. Engine was easy to get to, wide open. Used a 4" angle grinder to clean out the crack, just like you were going to fillet weld it. Sprayed it with started fluid (to clean it), let it dry, mix JB and spoon it on. Used duct tape as a form or mold to keep it from running. It was cracked about 4". Never did leak.
Eric Buckle, over on the TDR, tried lock-n-stitch and was pretty excited about it in the begining. Then tried JB Weld.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...highlight=lock
He later gave up on trying to repair the crack and purchased a new block.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ighlight=block
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...highlight=lock
He later gave up on trying to repair the crack and purchased a new block.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ighlight=block
Originally Posted by 5string
I spoke with Cummins today......they immediately offered to cover 100% of the parts if I had it repaired at a Cummins repair facility. That leaves me with a $3200.00 repair bill per Cummins Cumberland in Louisville, KY. I also have found a local machinist who looked at my truck today and thinks that he can do the repair, (metal stitching), in frame. He is going to research it and let me know in a couple of days. The problem I see with that is even after repairing the crack, (mine is about 4 inches long), you still are left with a block that is defective and may crack again.
I did the Lock And Stitch repair myself, My block had a 8.5 inch crack (check My Gallery) The Kit from lock & Stitch is a little over $300.00 And that kit is supposed to be enough material to repair a 10 inch crack. My block leaked so bad I could NOT drive my truck for 10 mins.. So I did the repair in the frame,Took off the right front fender and Turbo, had great access to the crack. After I did the repair I screwed up a couple of pins,Drilled to deep and the block being so thin there I stripped a couple of pins and had to purchase Larger pins. After I was done I had Very small seapage. I had to put antifreeze in once every 2 weeks.
BUT Since then I got LUCKY enough to find a NEW engine with 8525 miles (just Broke in) on it,For $2325.00 on EBAY.. I had to drive my Truck to Ohio to pick up the new engine,, 12 Hours to Ohio and 12 Hours Back.. And did not leak a drop of anti freeze on the trip,(wife wants to know WHY we need a new engine if it doesnt leak), BECAUSE I came up with my own repair, If you have a standard trans it will work great,,Automatic it will not work. (check my gallery for a photo of my repair), MYSELF cummins told me the same thing and I was going to have it done BUT I had 167.000 miles ,they only cover it to 150.000
Originally Posted by Bart Timothy
Eric Buckle, over on the TDR, tried lock-n-stitch and was pretty excited about it in the begining. Then tried JB Weld.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...highlight=lock
He later gave up on trying to repair the crack and purchased a new block.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ighlight=block
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...highlight=lock
He later gave up on trying to repair the crack and purchased a new block.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ighlight=block
JB Weld will NOT work,,It will work if all you do is Idle your truck in the driveway. But as soon as you drive it it WILL crack again,(been There done that) I tried everything that was sugessted to be ,EVEN from the old timmers at the junk yard,They say we used to fix Cracked blocks in my day With furnace cement,, NOPE that Dont work either,,JB weld, PC7,
What finally fixed mine was a bracket I came up with (see my gallery),that actually pushed against the Block with a gasket in between it, Leak STOPPED.
Since then I have sold the engine in my truck for $600.00 and bought one,, CHEAP With 8525 Miles on it..For $2325.00
53 block crack
Cummins offered to fix mine, was going to cost me $4,000 as long as no other hard parts needed replaced. what did they tell YOU?
Originally Posted by 5string
I found a machinist experienced with metal stitching to repair my block. He was able to do the repair "in frame" which made it much more affordable. The repair turned out very good and as of this date no leaking. He is located in central KY and if anyone would like his contact info send me a PM and I will give you his info. Additionally, I had a very interesting turn of events in my negotiations with Cummins; again anyone who is interested can PM me and I will explain. (if you have a cracked 53 you might want to hear about it).



