The other day I was driving about 5mph and come to a sudden stop. Come to find out the tie rod end from the drivers side come off. Lost the bolt. BAD DESIGN THERE!.. (Ideas on what to do so it wont happen again?)
Anyway, I pick up the bolt and put it back on, head for an alignment shop and Im told the following..
The drivers side front seal is leaking
The upper and lower ball joints on both sides are bad
The Steering Damper needs replaced
The Upper suspension arms need replaced (or maybe just the bushings?)
And the track bar needs replaced.
So, they tell me they cant give me a allignment, but can fix it all for 3K...+ the cost of a new allignement once they have repaired all the wore out parts.

I dont mind getting dirty, (Just replaced the transfer case and new shocks on my own). I dont know how much work I can actually do on my own and where I can get all these parts at the best deals. Do I really need new Upper suspension arms, or just bushings?

Anything else I need to relplace while Im doing all this?
218,500 miles on a 2001 stock 4x4 5speed 24 valve deisel
Thanks

 

Wow, definitely a liiiittle steep there

get all the parts online or at a good store and do it yourself, the arms bushing can be optional.
It will not be chap but will be a lot less than $ 3000, and yes, they cannot do the alignment until all has been replaced, or the cannot warranty the job

 

Any idea what all this could run for parts? I dont even know checkers is going to carry stock, or how much I will end up needing to order from the local Dodge dealer. I purchased a book on the truck and I'm sure I can do all of the repairs myself, but it looks like Im gonna have to have the ball joints pulled and installed by the dealer or a shop

 

Balljoints, trackbar can be had at any local auto parts, You can get the middle grade joints for about 40-50 a piece so that 200, trackbar will be another 150-200 depending on brand(oreilys, has on for 130 and I got advanced auto to match it on the 165 model with it made by TRW). I would do the front ujoints(can be had on line and seals also I believe, I just can't remember were I saw them, **** CRS) and the seals well you have it apart, another 100 bucks. You can get a new set of bushing on line for 90 shipped to your do(energy suspension) and to install is really easy. Tough part is getting the bolts out, so soak them with penetrating lube for a couple days. Then remove the arms, drill out the old rubber, tap the center out and peel out the last of the rubber. Then just tap the new ones in. Don't forget to mark the alignment when you take the front two lower bolts out as they are eccentric.

There is a write up here for the seals

There is a write up on pavement sucks for joints I believe, Pick up a haynes manual before you start, it will help with pictures and what not.

Steering dampener can be had on line, there is a guy selling them for like 39 + shipping on ebay, and they are made by BDS suspension.

 

Most of the time all you need to do is change the bushings on the control arms and track bar. Unless you want to upgrade to beefier ones or if they are bent. You can do the ball joint yourself if you want. Most auto parts store will rent a ball joint tool. I suggest you check for parts at Checkers before the dealer. If they are like Napa auto, they will have most of the parts if not all. Dealer parts are way over priced.

Eugene

 

Wow! How can you drive around with all that worn out stuf and have never noticed anything wrong?

 

I don't think he has all that stuff going wrong, I think dealer fed him up with a bunch of..... you know what.

Definitely ball joints and tire rods, then check if you really need the u-joints and the seal.
I'd say approx $ 600.00 in parts max, do some searches on this site and you'll find more info that the Chilton/Haines manual (I don't like these manuals anyway).
Weekend is coming, get ready to do some work, get a 24 pack of your favorite "barley pop", some friends, and have fun

 

There are a lot of shady shops around. They bait the hook and throw it out to you. Glad trace didn't take the bait.

 

They didnt even show me the issues, they just walked back into the front where I was having coffee and told me "Can we talk to you a minute"...Then they show me on a piece of paper all the stuff they claim is wrong.

I tell them I will pay for the time they took to give me the estimate and looking at the truck, but to bring me the keys and my invoice..

So, I went and picked up a shop manual from checkers and now Im tearing into the book vrs the truck.. The pictures really help!.

 

As someone else said, I highly doubt all those things are wrong at the same time. That sounds like a rip job.

Check the ball joints yourself. Jack up the truck, grab the tire top and bottom and see if you can feel any play int he ball joints. If it needs them they are easy. Its a unit bearing axle and they come appart SUPER easy. If you buy the joints at the store, they will often install them for you free. If not, it won't be much. U joints are easy to check when you have it out. If they are dry and stiff in in any way replace them. They are cheap. Bushings, just replace them. Most places that sell or install lift kits can get you all those bushings you need really cheap. Some of them may have them laying around and give them to you.

You could take it to another place that gives free estimates and get a second opinion if you aren't comfortable dertimining what really needs to be replaced on your own.

Chass
ct

 

I have been to alot of alignment shops and lot of time they will come out and tell you a part need to be replace, weather it be a balljoint or control arms or tierod ends. any way half the time there looking for extra business.

 

You know what funny...I was sharing all this information from the site with a friend of mine.. He tells me that he worked as a laborer in a tire store..They would LOVE to tell you all the x-tras..The store manager gets a cut from all this. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

They should be charged with attempted robbery!!
I have 325,000 miles on mine and have only changed 2 upper and 1 lower ball - nothing else.

 

Very Impressive!
I am finding out however that at 250,000 miles. The motor seems fine, but the rest of the truck is strating to break down around it!!

 

You have to remember that dodge does build the rest of the truck