Loosing prime with no leaks?
04-30-2007, 07:44 PM
#31
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I know this may seem like a bit of work but I just got mine running again on the week end. Check your cross-over tubes for any signs of wear or burring, I had a couple that need to be fixed. Also check the copper washers on the injectors for pitting, I had five that I needed to re-surface with emory cloth. When I put it back together, I sprayed brake cleaner in every injector hole to get all the oil out so they were absolutly clean and they would seal.
I have a thread on my procedure, it is "Uh Ohh"
I hope this helps!!!
I have a thread on my procedure, it is "Uh Ohh"
I hope this helps!!!
05-10-2007, 02:14 AM
#32
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I had a leak in the metal fuel line back by the tank where it entered the frame. It was very hard to see and it didn't appear to leak (no wet spots or anything obvious). The line was rubbing on the frame.
05-14-2007, 08:29 PM
#33
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Truck has been fixed
As promised, here is the corrective action to my hard start loss of prime trouble.
Turned out to be a bad VP44. The start sequence on the VP44 computer was fubar. Chip from Bluechip Diesel was a tremendous help in correctly troubleshooting the injection pump via phone. Ordered a pump from Chip and replaced it and and a few other items myself at a leisurely pace over a 4 day period.
The pump that failed was the 3rd replacement pump since truck was new, it lasted 2 1/2 years and about 41,000 miles. Apparently all my fuel mods didn't help much with particular problem. Truck currently has 152,135 miles. After removing the bad pump, inspection revealed the key had been squashed and partially sheared at the time of installation.
My truck now runs like a scalded ape, can't believe the difference. Now I know and remember how the Cummins is suppose to run....
Mike
Turned out to be a bad VP44. The start sequence on the VP44 computer was fubar. Chip from Bluechip Diesel was a tremendous help in correctly troubleshooting the injection pump via phone. Ordered a pump from Chip and replaced it and and a few other items myself at a leisurely pace over a 4 day period.
The pump that failed was the 3rd replacement pump since truck was new, it lasted 2 1/2 years and about 41,000 miles. Apparently all my fuel mods didn't help much with particular problem. Truck currently has 152,135 miles. After removing the bad pump, inspection revealed the key had been squashed and partially sheared at the time of installation.
My truck now runs like a scalded ape, can't believe the difference. Now I know and remember how the Cummins is suppose to run....
Mike
01-24-2018, 08:49 PM
#36
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I just used a standard one way check valve from MSC. I located it by my fuel pump at my tank. I ordered a Draw Straw, so now I am going to put a plastic valve at the bottom of the draw straw in the tank. This valve will have a lower crack pressure, less then 1psi. My bed dumps so getting to the tank is very easy.
I have no visible leaks and no smell of diesel, so unless I get a better idea, I am going to stay with the check valve deal, plus it could be leaking back through the IP, and for that there is no fix, other then replacment. If I do replace the IP, I would keep the check valve in place, unless there was a reason not to?
Thanks Bob
I have no visible leaks and no smell of diesel, so unless I get a better idea, I am going to stay with the check valve deal, plus it could be leaking back through the IP, and for that there is no fix, other then replacment. If I do replace the IP, I would keep the check valve in place, unless there was a reason not to?
Thanks Bob
who is msc? I'm having the same problem with my fass pump I've talked 2 fass they say it's not the pump u put a cjeck on both outlet and return? Thanks James
01-24-2018, 09:38 PM
#37
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Cummins 3941156
This is at the back of the head, and change all the banjo bolt seals
This is at the back of the head, and change all the banjo bolt seals
Last edited by Dieselbuilder; 01-24-2018 at 09:40 PM. Reason: more to add
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