fiveology

I am going to look at an 01 this weekend. It's an SO, 5spd, 2500 Quad cab long bed 4x4 with 89,000 on it. This will actually be the second time going to see it, I went on Monday and drove it, but I didn't have a lot of time, so I put a deposit on it and left. This will be my first Cummins after owing 2 Powerstrokes. A buddy of mine with a Cummins showed me how to check for codes on the odometer. What else should I be looking for, what are common problems with these trucks. I have been doing a lot of reading here and I know about the LP and VP-44. What things should I check at the dealership before signing the papers? I appreciate any help that would prevent me from buying a beater. One other question, is the Cummins 100,000 mile warranty transferable, and if so will it cover a LP or VP-44 failure? Sorry about the long post and thanks again.

TNutcher

Hey
You'll enjoy the Cummins ALOT!! LOL. Bring a pressure tester for the fuel press. or get the dealer to do that. Also check for a 53 block...they're mostly on 98 and 99's but some 00 and 01's can get them. Its on the drivers side....just above the oil pan where it bolts to the bottom of the block, kinda behind some electrical connectors....if its cast with anything but a 53 (they'll be like 1" #'s cast into the block) your safe. The 53's are something you probably will want to stay away from. Not all crack but still one less thing...I didn't know about them...whoops o well. Not sure about the warranty....pretty sure its transferable but ya. Good luck and have fun with it!! hope this helped some!!
Trev

farmer dave

The only major things to really look at are what has already been stated above. Some other things to get checked out would be a car fax or history report. The dealer can also do this if they want to. Just look it over and make sure there are no apparent problems like leaky seals or gaskets. If the dealer won't test the fuel pressure for you then you can buy a cheap pressure gauge and hose and hook it up yourself. Some will do a volume test where they test how much fuel is pumped in a certain amount of time, but this is not what you want. Tell them you want a pressure test and anything below 8 psi at wide open throttle (WOT) is to low.

fiveology

Thanks guys, I already pulled the Carfax and it is clean. Where exactly do you hook up the gauge to test fuel pressure?

pmtg

shrader valve on the VP44 fuel inlet.

ideally, you would want to test it under load but kinda tough to see the gauge when the hood is shut, unless you can somehow run it in the cab (which might be easy to do, but it isnt your truck yet and dealership may frown upon that).

ask to see any claims on the warranty. see if the IP or LP have been replaced.

xp8103

Depending on the in-service date, you SHOULD have 5, 100k mile warranty that WILL cover the LP and VP. It is transferrable. DC replaced my turbo earlier this summer when my wastegate tanked (was apparently broken, partially open).
I put a set of gauges in mine, including a FP gauge which instantly told me there was a problem. My gauge would read about 7psi at idle and drop to 0 with any application of throttle. When I brought it up to the service tech, he said that you dont get much more than 7-8 normally anyhow and when I asked him about dropping to 0, he said "must be a faulty gauge". I replaced the LP on my own. 14psi now idle, 10wot.

G-NOTE

To be completely honest with you...

If I could go back before I bought mine I would'nt have...

After having the problems that I have had with this truck I would've bought a 98'...

Thats the last year of the 12v and it has the newer interior...

Plus its easy and cheap to BOMB..

We're all here to help, so I'm trying to keep you from making the mistake I did, sure the 24v have a better CPU, but for every day driving and gas milage go for the 98'. Unless your building a hot rod!!!

I love my CTD so don't stray from that, just reserch the forum and you'll see...