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lift pump concern

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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #31  
welder 59's Avatar
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Checked out the walbro web site. Inline pumps run around 100 bucks but you still need to get mounting hardware, fittings, and lines. Not to mention the electrical connections like a relay, wire and whatever. The raptor kit looks pretty darn good to me and I have not heard anything bad about them even on other threads. So who has the best price?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:30 PM
  #32  
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From: Houston
I think the Vulcan big line kit is aa good solution. The Airtex pump seems to be a better OEM type pump than the Carter. Seems the expensive pumps can fail too. When they do, no spare, unless you have lots of money. I think the Airtex may be the best non expensive solution for stock & near stock applications. The pumps can be changed with the Vulcan setup in 10-15 mins, worst case.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:43 PM
  #33  
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From: The Great Northwest!
Originally Posted by 91r/t
Ok my question is.....if I buy a FASS DDRP, can I mount it on the frame rail and leave the old original lift pump in the tank? I didn't know if it would pump fuel through it or not. Id probably rather put a drawstraw in the tank and let it suck fuel freely rather than try and suck fuel through the pump. Am I correct on this?
No, the intank pump needs to go. We have the new prototype DSV going out if you would be interested in beta testing it.

Send me a PM and we can talk particulars.

Dave
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #34  
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What is the difference between the vulcan big line kit and the line kit that comes with the raptor? Also, what size line is in the draw straw kit as compared to stock? That requires drilling a hole in the tank right?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #35  
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We use bio/ veg oil Diesel compatible fuel lines. The Draw Straw is roughly 1/2"

The stock pickup has a 3/8" flexible tubing. In between these sections, you have internal plastic barbed fittings. (depending on year) Some of the modules are more restrictive primarily due to these restrictions. This is what the Draw Straw was born from.

However, some modules flow more freely in stock form. The metal module fittings do flow better than the plastic. This is all due to wall thickness. The plastic much be much thicker to do the same job as the metal and this results in an ID in the .24" range. Just slightly under 1/4" ID.

Dave
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #36  
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Is it possible to ID a metal vs plastic short of dropping the tank and pulling it out?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #37  
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Yes. If you can get your head up there and he top of the module is clean enough, you can see it. Typically, the metal lines have a radius to them. The plastic unit is at a 90* angle.

Most 2000 and up are plastic.

Dave
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #38  
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Thanks Fishin for all your help. Do I have to make a new hole for the Vulcan draw straw?
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:54 AM
  #39  
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I have 91,000 miles on my 99 3500 DRW. At 82,000 I replaced the original lift pump only because I wanted to insure that I would not have problems on my summer trip. The old pump worked fine so I kept it as a spare. At 90,000 I began to see my fuel pressure idiot light flicker and come on. Since I also installed a pressure gauge on the filter canister I was able to verify that the new pump was actually failing. The point of my story is that the stock lift pumps fail; even a new lift pump can fail quickly. So install a fuel pressure gauge or at least an idiot light and carry a spare lift pump. I am still using the old pump but I’m waiting for my Airdog 100 filter/pump system to arrive any day now.

Tony
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:03 AM
  #40  
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Jegs liquid filled psi gauge on the way. Great price!
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #41  
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From: Clarkdale, Arizona
I have 91,000 miles on my 99 3500 DRW. At 82,000 I replaced the original lift pump only because I wanted to insure that I would not have problems on my summer trip. The old pump worked fine so I kept it as a spare. At 90,000 I began to see my fuel pressure idiot light flicker and come on. Since I also installed a pressure gauge on the filter canister I was able to verify that the new pump was actually failing. The point of my story is that the stock lift pumps fail; even a new lift pump can fail quickly. So install a fuel pressure gauge or at least an idiot light and carry a spare lift pump. I am still using the old pump but I’m waiting for my Airdog 100 filter/pump system to arrive any day now.

Tony
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by welder 59
Thanks Fishin for all your help. Do I have to make a new hole for the Vulcan draw straw?
For everything except the Draw Straw I the answer is yes. The DSI replaces a factory module fitting.

Of course the DSI is intended for trucks that do not have an intank pump or retrofit.

Dave
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #43  
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Thanks. Now I have a plan.
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #44  
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Originally Posted by klx650a2
If you put on a pump, spend a little more and go with a good pump like a raptor or fass hpfp. I don't even watch my gauge anymore because its so boring... 15.5 at idle and 10.5 at WOT...
Not to be contrarian, but there are TONS more "good pumps' on the market than just these--- many cost much, much less.

My gauge never falls below the FP I want, but it's just a wimpy original stock LP that's 7 years old.

I'm also only running about 420hp worth of fueling.
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #45  
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From: upper michigan
My gauge never falls below the FP I want, but it's just a wimpy original stock LP that's 7 years old.
Thats all I run.
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