I would like to hear from others, that have relocated the oem style LP to the frame rail-closer to the fuel tank. I have read all about the alternate forms of fuel delivery to the IP (FASS,Walbro), and I'm only interested in feedback from CTD owners that have moved the LP from the engine area, to the frame. Information I'm looking for is, longevity, pressures with/without larger fuel delivery lines and other mod's.

I'm also curious to hear from anyone that maybe knows where the oem pumps on other CTD applications are located. Specifically, we already know that Cummins issued a campaign kit for these applications (4090046). I'm interested to see if Buses and Emergency Response Vehicles that are CTD powered, had the LP mounted to the side of the block like our trucks have-or are they frame mounted?

I will be installing an FP gauge to monitor my LP on my 98.5 2500, and to start with the only BOMB items will be the FP gauge and a new lift pump and hose kit. Also I can see a DSS and a track bar in the near future for handling.

Thanks for the great forum, and any shared info. V65

 

shortly after installing my vulcan big line relocate kit my stock lift pump started to give erratic pressure readings. It would drop the pressure down to 9 psi when you stopped an the engine went to idle then if you if you reved the engine the pressure would go back up to 15 psi. the pressure kept dropping lower and when it got to 7 psi I changed the lift pump and every thing went back to normal. I have about 3000 miles on the current lift pump and all is working well.
The vulcan was a real easy install and their instructios were great. I am convinced that the additional flow will help keep the vp44 alive.

 

Mine did the same as xmr said ,I also use vulcan with the carter pump 16 psi at idle 15 around town and 13 wide open

 

Are you guys monitoring FP downstream of the filter? Or is the sender mounted in the filter housing?

To get true pressure at the IP, you have to be in between the filter and the IP-correct?

 

Your 98.5 should be the same as mine. on top of the filter housing there are two 1/8th pipe plugs. the one closest to the front in post filter pressure and the one that is toward the firewall ins pre filter pressure. I have mine hooked up post filter with a snubber and a ss line running to the isolator and then a ss line running to the gauge in the cab using a steering housing mount.

 

I moved mine to the framerail right in front of the skid-plate mount. I made my own relocation kit with 3/8 ID hose running up to the filter. I replaced the second "stock" carter pump with the carter HP1604 ( I think) it is a 15PSI 100GPH pump. This lasted until yesterday when I had to change it bacause I was getting 3PSI at idle. The bonus to the relocation was that it took me about 30 minutes to swap in the new one. My next pump will be a holley blue in the same location.

Relocating is a bonus because you can easily change the pump, and by mounting it below the level of the tank the pump is always submersed in diesel.

 

Installed LP from Cummins 'campain' kit with a geno's Vulcan
remote kit: Did nou use the bracket, Made alu bracket that
spanned 2 holes in frame.

15 PSI at idle, 13-14 normal ( with 3k TC ) and lowest 10PSI.

Previous OEM LP: 12 Idle,9-10 normal cruise, would pull down to
~5-7 PSI:

SO: replacing LP and mounting at frame with bigger lines, I gained ~ 4 PSI at WOT.

The LP is noisy, sure know it's running..

 

Im running a Walbro 392 for the last 14000 miles,mounted on frame just in front of tank(2001.5 Quad, short box)never misses a beat, 19 PSI, stock lines,there is no need to put in any biggar fuel lines, doesnt do any good unless one drills out the filter inlet and outlet and the injection pump inlet and outlet, put 1 inch lines on if you like but unless you drill all inlets and outlets the only way you will move more fuel is pressure and thats what a Walbro's got, anything up to 100 PSI, and just for the record according to Gary and Gary just might be right on this,(I have a different opinion on this than Gary does but I could be wrong and probably am) the injection pump does not let fuel pass thru it,only the secondary pump in the injection pump puts fuel out the return line so what is the point of biggar lines, you cant force fuel thru the VP44 anyway. As long as the injection pump is kept full of fuel from 10 to 20 PSI, and any of the stock lines will supply that, providing of course one has a pump that will keep the VP44 at the required PSI. Theres only one pump that can do that and have a long, long life and thats the Walbro GS 392. A Walbro rated to put out 100 PSI and running at 20 PSI should last virtually forever, it can wear a lot before it gets down to 20 PSI.

 

Ok sold. Now where do we get the Waqlbro fuel pump??

 

There are 3 currently available on ebay. Sounds like a good deal- $120 and will outperform the stock LP. Looks like they come with a mount for underframe installation.

 

You can buy them like on Ebay but remember you have to have a regulator bypass between the Walbro and the VP44 or as some are doing just put T in the line and connect it to the return line,regulator works better tho, www.solidsteel.biz has a complete kit to fit from 98.5 to the present, I dont know if its listed on the website yet but I do know he sells them.

 

Dodge Demon, how did you do your regulator install?
What? Where? Etc?


Thanks,
Lowell

 

No Walbro input, but-

Thanks for all the responses. Keep them coming, the more info. we get will help others with the fuel delivery dilemma.

I stopped by Cummins last nite on the way home from work, and picked up 2 of the campaign pump's. I've owned my truck for a little over a week now, and I'm addressing issues one at a time in order of importance. Not knowing the history of my truck, I figured replacing the stock lift pump would be cheap insurance. I checked the pressure before removing it, and had 10 at idle and 8 at WOT-which from all that I've read-is not that bad. Worse case scenario, that pump can be used in an emergency in the future. After installing my new Cummins campaign pump I had 15 at idle and couldn't pull it down any further than 13 at WOT. It did get mounted in the stock location as my Vulcan kit is in transit, and I will feel better about driving the truck with the new pump in the stock location until my FP gauge package (which is in transit as well from Geno's) can be installed along with the Vulcan in the new location. Hoping for a little better numbers, after the relocation and larger hoses. I will be incorporating the ball valve in the system, to aid in the roadside repair.

How many of you all use the ball valve between the pump and tank?

Also, when installing the campaign pump in the stock location, I found the wiring harness to be stretched to it's limit-since the pump plug is built in and at the base. I did manage to get the harness moved over, and plugged in. But only after plugging it in and then installing the pump onto the bracket-no way would it work vice versa. Anyone else run into this?

At idle


WOT

 

Well I had 15 psi at idle yesterday,
Today 14 PSI at idle,

At this rate I will need a new LP every week...

 

Heres what I wrote on another site about 2 months ago,
Ok heres a rundown on the instalation. This is on a 2001 short box 4wd.
1-I cut the fuel line (the biggest line of the 2 thats there) between the front of the tank and the cross member.
2-I also cut the same line about 8 inches in front of the cross member and discarded this piece of fuel line,took out about 18 in.
3-I then put a piece of 3/8 hose on the line from the tank and slid it over the barb fitting on the inlet of the Walbro.The hose was long enough (about a foot) to put the Walbro just in front of the cross member.
4-On the outlet of the Walbro, another barb fitting, I slid a 4 in piece of 3/8 hose over it, and slid this piece of hose onto another barb fitting which i screwed into a 3/8 brass T.
5-I screwed my regulator valve onto the top of the T,and connected a 3/8 return line on the outlet of the regulator.I ran this hose back to the fuel tank filler hose which I cut and inserted a short nipple in this filler tube and into this nipple I inserted a 3/8 piece of pipe, (welded it in the nipple) and slid the 3/8 hose from the regulator on to this.
6-I then screwed a hose barb into the other end of the T and slid a 3/8 hose over it.The other end of the hose was slid over the steel fuel line that went up to the OEM LP.
7- I have since actually removed the OEM LP, Itook out the banjo bolt on the LP inlet,took the banjo bolt out of the filter inlet, removed the complete LP, then connected the the original fuel line that was on the LP inlet to the inlet of the filter with the banjo bolt. I have a line connected to the test port on the VP44, this is a nylon air line,1/8 dia. out side, maybe 1/16 inside dia,this is run into the cab to a 30# mechanical gauge,(been running this gauge setup for 160,000 miles )
8-The wire that was plugged into the OEM LP is the one I use to power a relay (I extended the wire) ,there is 2 prongs on this plug,one is + and one is -ground. I connected the + to terminal 85 and the -ground to terminal 86 on the relay.I ran a wire from the + battery post to a inline fuse then to #30 on relay,then a wire from #87 on relay to the + on the Walbro. I ran a wire from the -ground terminal on the Walbro back to the -ground battery post.I used all 14 ga wire and put loom over all wires.
9-The regulator that I used was a Tee-Jet Spraying Systems all brass, adjustable, (T handle on top to adjust)I adjusted it so I had approx 19# at idle and at 60 MPH its steady as a rock at 17#, if I tramp on it ,it might fall a # or two but only momentaraly.
10-I am now testing a different regulator for someone that is going to market a kit, (Walbro,lines,fittings and regulator) Its a regulator that is adjustable but not with a screw or a handle,when the kit is shipped it will have a preset pressure, around 17 to 20#,reason being that if one dont have a gauge theres no way to tell how much pressure one could have (if one was to screw down the T handle on the Tee-Jet regulator like I installed) as you might know the Walbro can put out up to 90 psi. So i have one of these regulators installed right now and it runs at about the same as my original regulator, I have run this one now for 1500 miles and it works perfectly,I had around 3000 miles on the TEE-Jet regulator and the same with that one, steady as a rock. There is no need or requirment to have the regulator Td into the line just before the inj. pump, it works just as well if not better,(takes less return hose and dont have to cut the line between the filter and inj. pump) in fact with the regulator before the filter, (like i have it) if the filter starts to plug and needs changing the gauge will drop and there wont never be any more pressure thru the filter than what the pressure was originaly set at because of the regulator,if the regulator is after the filter (betwen filter and inj. pump)if the filter stared to plug the Walbro would just send more pressure against the filter because the fuel is only bypassed after the filter, I have read someplace that too much (and i dont recall how much) pressure could blow the cover off of some filters, like my engine (2001) has a plastic cover on the filter, i think the 99s had a aluminum top, so if the pressure is regulated before the filter inlet and set say at 20#,thats all the pressure there will ever be on the filter.
11- Finally,the Walbro is bolted to the frame with 2 clamps and the Walbro itself is wrapped in a insulated sleeve, It does not make any noise and you have to be bent down with your head under the truck to hear it when you first turn the key on and it runs momentararly. It operates just like the OEM LP, when you turn the key to on, the pump runs for 2 or 3 seconds,pressure on gauge comes up to approx10# then shuts of, then as soon as you start the engine,pressure is right at the preset psi.
I hope this makes some sense!!!!!!