Hey everybody, Here is my issue, I seem to loose overdrive when I let off of the gas, as of a matter of fact at slower speeds it seems to loose 2nd gear also, it is like the trans is loosing pressure, if I rev the engine it will catch a gear, go, and then seem to lock the converter, after it starts pulling again, I can put my foot on the brake (while crusing), not coasting, and feel the converter unlock, then when I let off the brake it will will lock back up. The trans has been re-built, just replaced the Gov. press sol. and the presssure switch, that seemed to make it a little better until I drive it for a couple of miles, then it is back to its old self, with the o/d button to off, and at slower speeds seems to work alot better, meaning it does not take as many RPM's to find a gear, and it finds one faster, but still some lag time, I have ordered a noise filter from Navone Eng. cause that seems to be the next "cheap" fix, I have read hundreds of posts about tranny issues that almost have the same issue description as mine but most seem to either be out totally, or they are switching between gears every couple of seconds, mine just seems to loose them. ???? and/or everyones technical (or lack of) language is different. Any help would be appreciated, and I know you regulars get tired of the same ol and dance!! Thanks in advance.

OH.. It is a 99 24V Cummings, 4X4 with 200,000 miles

 

Alright, after reading six billion posts about these transmissions, I assumed that my issue had be similar to at least um.... 5 billion, and if I just started with the moderate to easy fixes first, I might just luck out. Here is a list of the tricks I have completed thus far:

I cleaned all the grounds i could find, (two by the batteries, one in the drivers side fenderwell on frame, one on the PCM), I did this by sanding the paint to bare metal in the locations, cleaning the termanal, and replacing the screw or bolt.

Ran a 16 ga wire with termanals soldered on from the pass side battery ground to the PCU external ground

reset the computer to stock with the superchip programer,

cleaned battery posts,

cut off the smaller termanals and re solderd new termanals on for the aux. grounds on the posts, the main termanals look fine after being cleaned up,

Navone Eng. inline filter installed as per instructions,

the three coiled TPS wires to the ECU, cut,and spliced, by soldering new sections in, wrapped with tinfoil exhaust tape, then taped, re-ran in a new location to keep away from original wire loom, (I found two different ways this could to be done, certain Dodge dealers cut and re-splice four of the six wires, but a technical article in the TDR mag said that only the three coiled wires need to be removed from the loom, so that is what I did) Any ideas or comments would be appreciated


as far as I know I re-set the APPS, I did this by disconnecting both batteries for approx. 2 hours, after a good cleaning, re connected, turned the key to the on position, depressed the pedal and slowley released. turned the ignition off, waited a second then started.

All of this and not much seems to have changed, not since The gov. pressure sol, and switch were replaced, EXCEPT, that it will not downshift, this is apparently a side effect of the Filter, as explained by Kent Rieske P.E., now it shifts from first to second, back to first and back to second during light to moderate acceleration, under full throttle, it doesn't skip a beat. Otherwise if I just stay on the gas the trans works just fine, it is when I let off to coast it acts up,

Any ideas on what next, from what I can tell other than grounds under the dash, (from what I understand, that is for Trucks with the APPS in the cab) I have exhausted my reasonable options. Anything unreasonable for me right now will make the truck sit, and that sucks!!

Thanks
MF

 

My problem did not go away until I replaced the batteries.

 

Are the APPS and the TPS the same thing?

I did take the truck for a little longer drive than normal, about 15 miles, that was a mistake, as previously mentioned, about six miles was the furthest I have driven it, anyway, at about ten miles, third and overdrive were no ware to be found, I would have to slow down until it was safe to manualy shift into second gear, accelerate, shift into third to build more speed then.... yep back to free wheeling, do it all over again!!, I took it nice and slow on the way back (about 25 mph) to try and not tear something up. Just took it for a ride after it sat for about five hours and it seems to be fine again, well as good as it was this morning.

Does this sound like the overdrive/lock-up issue that is so common

SilverJay, What was the issue with the batteries that were in your truck?? Could you tell there was something with the way it cranked, or lights dimming, or anything? My batts. seem fine, BUT i know that just because it starts doesn't mean something is not wrong. I know the previous owner is notorious for buying batts from a discount store, I have worked for his Co. for about six years and we replace batts in our heavy eq. and service trucks all the time with S$#T you have never heard of, so this may be something.

What are some batt recomendations, size and brands or what worked in your truck. I live in Nashville Tennessee so we have mild climate conditions year around, so sub zero temps are a thing of the past for me.

Thanks for the input!!

MF

 

Do you have any codes?

 

Yes, Similar and same function just different name on different yrs, I believe.

RJ

 

Before I replaced the gov. press solenoid and the switch, it had a PCM programing code, (can't remember the code #), after replacing the parts, and clearing the code, I drove it, no codes yet,, same shifting issue just not quite as bad when cold, the mechanic with the diagnostic eq. saw the superchip programer on my seat and mentioned that we might try to reset the comp to factory settings and see if it would effect trans shift, so I did, no change, after driving it for a couple of days on short trips, still no codes, that is what the superchips diagnostic says,

We have a skid loader and a small tractor that need batts, so I am going to sell my batts to the company, and buy me some new ones from advance, (the titanium series), I will post if that changes anything.

 

It is PERFECTLY NORMAL for your converter to UNLOCK WHEN YOU TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL even if it is just enough to light the brake lights and provide no brake engagement. The brake light signal also tells the computer to unlock the converter.

Also if for example you are traveling 55 mph and you lift off the throttle completely and coast down to 53 mph it will unlock the converter and when you reapply the throttle it will lock back up this also would be normal.

Since you are not getting any error codes i would get some pressure gauges hooked up to that tranny and take it for a drive while watching the pressures i think that may be where your problem is. If you just had it rebuilt take it back to them and ask for this test and ride along to see and record the pressures.

 

New Batts, spliced ground for TPS and ran into cab of truck, as per Sun Coast Trans/Converters, still no change, I am out of tricks!!! I guess I am going to take it back to the tranny shop again to see if they will have a look at it, it is the only other thing I can do.

If someone has any thoughts about this PLEASE let me know, if you know of something I have missed PLEASE let me know. I have acess to a Snap On Modis, for a small fee, if I need to be looking for something on that, PLEASE give me some ideas.. For heavens sake this is more tiring and frustrating than being married!!!

 

Is this something new that is happening? These rigs feel like they are in neutral when you let off the fuel since there is not much hold back with a diesel and the converter unlocks as soon as you let off. I have a lock up switch and locked up is the only time there is much hold back on mine. Without it locked the tach hovers only slightly above idle all the way to a stop. Have you checked for codes?

 

A good friend of mine that rebuilds trannys at home on the side has the truck now, he is going to put the guages to it hopefullt tommorow, he is apparently very familiar with these transmissions and said he could whoop it for me, if there is something wrong with it, it will go back to the original builder.

 

Who was that?

RJ

 

The Shop is called the Transmission Store, close to downtown Nashville, seems to be a clean well organized shop, but after the first re-building, the truck was doing the same thing, after a little bit of persuasion, the truck was brought to a dodge mechanic, (on his personal time), he droped the pan and found a piece of a big snap ring that had broken, he thought it was from the overdrive section???, we put the piece in a baggie and sent to the shop with the truck on a rollback, raised some hell and they finally agreed to go through it again, I have a feeling it may have never been done, the trans has never been right since. at this point in the game it almost seems better to me to not bother with the shop if there seems to be something wrong with it, I don't want to wait another month just get it back and it be a S&^T box again. I would rather pay someone if it is going to be done right.

Trust me,, if there is something wrong, or they they are not legit, I will let everyone know.

 

From your unsual description of problems, I assume something is internally worng. Were you the one several months ago that reported some snap ring in pan? If so, figure on a teardown by someone who knows *** he's doing.

 

That was not my posting, these are my only posts on the forum. The trans is in good hands now, I will not be taking it back to the shop that re-built it, I am tired of messing with them.