Hi all. I just thought it was important for me to let everybody know that Vulcan has a big line kit for us with the intank, supposed upgrade, pump. I just installed it today. Now my fuel pressure is not dropping below 5 psi. even at wot.! I don't know how far it is dropping, but I have a red idiot light that comes on when the fuel pressure drops below 5 psi. I got it so even the wife would know something was wrong when it lit up if she is driving. Problem was that it came on a lot. Could not tow, i was to scared. Baby it all time till I got this. This kit removed three restricting banjo fittings. And now no problem.

 

AHHHHHH..... I was waitin for someone to bring this. I too have suffered the travesty of getting the piece of junk In-tank LP. What did the Vulcan Big Line kit run you?? I am very curious to see what Psi reading you are getting at idle and at WOT.

As soon as you find out, let me know, dude.

Don't know about you, but at idle, I get about 7-8 psi (fuel press) and 2-3 psi at WOT.

 

I put the Vulcan on myself. I'm getting 7.5psi at idle and 4.5psi at WOT. I do not have the draw straw yet but it is in the works. I did drop my tank and took the screens off of the bottom of the in-tank assembly to where the 3/8 tube would flow more freely. I think the draw straw will seal the deal on all of it though. The Vulcan pusher pump relocation kit will run $115 plus shipping. The 1/2 draw straw is $29.99. I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and put the draw straw in so it'll be ready when i start adding HP.

 

Thanks for the info. I have the BD idiot light also and just got the in-tank pump "fix" last week. I also noticed at WOT the light comes on . It sounds like I'll be installing the big line kit very soon also .

 

FYI, the Draw Straw II is designed to fit into the intank pump fuel module, but does not actually connect to the pump. Its for external pumps like a FASS, Walbro, Holley, etc. Unless you're talking about another draw straw that isn't on Vulcan's site.

 

Get the regular Vulcan Big Line kit, purchase another Carter, Holley or pump of your choice and use it as a pusher.

OR

Just went and looked at my truck, I'm going to Napa and buy another Carter lift pump. Call me crazy cause I might be. Mopars reuses all the old lines, there is just a flow through block where the old lift pump use to be. Going to mount a Carter back and wire it up.

 

You guys sound very knowledgable. Please, tell me what I should do about my 2002 24V. I have been told that the transfer pump is probably bad. They also think if the transfer pump is bad, that the IP is failing as well. How difficult is it to replace the transfer pump? They want about $500 for this procedure.

 

If you have any mechanical skill at all tell them to get bent. Then do a search on LP's and pick your poison

 

Look at the thread started a few days ago by adam3291 titled (fuel pressure an a 99)
I explained what to do for him which is exactly what you need to do also

check with adam3291 he did not follow it at first but he is learning now via the long way around

 

So. You can install external pump, but it won't pull thru in tank pump? What do you do? Remove tank, pitch in tank pump and then install external? I saw the name Walbro. Is that the best. Man, I feel like a plum idiot. You guys are so advanced.

 

Do you know the history of the truck? Stock, they didn't have an intank pump. The lift pump is on the driverside of the engine, above the starter. Don't go with intank setup if you don't have it already. You can get better systems for less,that will support more HP. Look into the Glacier system, which uses the Wabro, or a FASS. Or you can get a Holley blue pump, or relocate the stock LP bck near the tank. Use the search, and prepare for tons of reading.

 

The walbro pump would be a good choice with the larger lines either from somebody like glacer or vulcan or make them up yourself thats what i did.
I also used the carter 4601hp pump mounted on the frame just in front of the tank it has done great for me for 2 years now. The external pump on the frame will work with the pump in the tank but if the tank pump quits then you will not have fuel to the injection pump that is why i say stay away from the in the tank pump.
If you have one mounted on the frame and it quits you can change on the side of the road if you had to in a matter of a few minuets and be going again.

 

I don't know what my fuel pressure is at, but I do know that it aint dropping below 5 pounds anymore. WOOHOO! This is with Hypertech on highest setting. The intank pump is supposed to be a high volume pump, but it isn't a high pressure pump. The idea of having the pump in the tank has its up and downs. On the up side it should last due to being kept cool by the fuel. Down side is if it does quit working you aint gonna change it along the road. Gotta drop the tank. The big line kit got rid of the banjo restricting fittings so the volume can get to the pump. I am contemplating on getting some rv275 injectors. I don't know if my pressure will drop after that upgrade. Time will tell. If it does, I will probably just put another pump inline with the intank pump and have it activate when the oil pressure comes up. Oh ya, big line kit was around $65.

 

Yeah I know, if I had the money it would have gone into something different. $100 deductiable was better for me at the time than dropping $400 or $600 on a FASS or $300 on a Walbro. Instead of worrying about mounting back to the block I'm just going to purchase a Holley Red or Carter 4600 and use it as a pusher pump if my intake pump ever goes out I will just convert the entire system.

 

Do you know what the flow rating is on the intank pump? If your second pump is a greater flow than the intank unit, you will cavitate it and generate debris in the system. Not to mention you won't get any extra flow out of it.