Injection Timing
Key on top before removal of timing gear. When you get the new one -- note that each key is matched to it's pump - number on the side -- the key has an arrow that points toward the pump. There are 21 keys - each with a different offset matched to the pump. Use care putting it on so you don't lose it inside or not get it in the slot in the gear. Loss of the key means going to the pump shop or ordering the correct one. They will not interchange unless the same number.
OK, prior to receiving a jump start I had no DTC light. Now I do and I just got a PPCU - po500, p1693, pdone. PECU - p1693, po232, p1689, po215, po216, pdone. It got me back 40 miles after this (other then the frt. drive shaft falling apart) When I bought this used, I also took the transferrable extended warranty to 100k (it's got 74k now)
. I'm getting ready to take it to the dealership. After reading all the VP44 posts
what symptoms should I tell them I had to get the pump replaced?
It does have a dead pedal every now and then and also gets doggy and shifts up/down a lot when pulling a 27' 5th wheel camper. If driven VERY easy I'll get 17mph avg. on the overhead. Hook up any trailer or go over 65mph and it drops to 10 - 12.
Any help appreciated......thanks!
. I'm getting ready to take it to the dealership. After reading all the VP44 posts
what symptoms should I tell them I had to get the pump replaced? It does have a dead pedal every now and then and also gets doggy and shifts up/down a lot when pulling a 27' 5th wheel camper. If driven VERY easy I'll get 17mph avg. on the overhead. Hook up any trailer or go over 65mph and it drops to 10 - 12.
Any help appreciated......thanks!
you might wanna replace the cam sensor at the same time you do your pump. It may not be bad now, but its darn near immosible to get at without taking the inj. pump off. Now would be the time to do it.
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