I think my injector pump is dying. When the truck is cold, or has been sitting for at least 30-45 minutes after being run(water temp is barley 190), it starts right up. If it's been sitting for less than 30 minutes(this is wtih water temps at 190 for at least 10-15 minutes), it has a hard time starting. I've got my fuel pump hooked up through a switch (this is temporary until I can get a relay from Dodge). I turn the ignition on, then turn the pump on, then wait for the wait to start light to go out, and then start it. I know it's crude but that's the best I can do right now. I do it this way every time. Yall think I should turn the ignition on, turn the pump on, wait for the wait to start light to go out, turn the pump on, start the truck, and then turn the pump immediately on?

I'm getting very close to going back to completely stock on this truck (no Comp, no fancy fuel pump, no lift, possibly even no gauges). Just exhaust and air filter. Not only do I have to worry bout my injection pump now, my cruise control is dead (unless I'm doing 80mph ), my trans has started shifting really hard for some reason (just had the whole thing flushed about 1 month ago), my fuel pressure gauge sender is shot, and on the overhead storage console, the glasses holder is broken. If it ain't one thing it's another. :'(

 

It sounds like the injector pump is dying, contact me if you need one. I have done the same thing you are talking about on removing mods. What I ended up doing is starting over, not quiting. It cost me more the second time, but I knew what I wanted from the first time.
www.westtexasturbodiesel.com

 

What is your fuel pressure when you kick the pump on? If you have "high" fuel pressure upon start up it can cause a hard to start situation. Thats why the ECMs were reprogramed to run the lift pump for such a short time upon start up vs hummin along for 20 seconds like they "used" to.

So what is your fuel pressure when this problem occurs?

Even if you returned it to stock, or never modified it to begin with, you could have lost a lift pump and or injection pump. The fun that is had with it modified is worth 10x what it will cost to fix in most cases, least it is for me. As far as your transmission, well you left it stock and turned up the power, its only a matter of time.

 

About 22 psi according to the mechanical gauge.

 

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=4;threadid=19177;start=0#msg180303 date=1062642041]
About 22 psi according to the mechanical gauge.
[/quote]

Thats way to high for starting purposes.

Drop that to 6 to 9 psi on startup and I bet you'll find its alot easier to start.

 

But it only does it when it's hot.

 

BB: Try to prime it for about 2-5 secs without starting, turn the LP off and start- with the engine running turn on the LP.
(With the engine hot).
Bosch stated that it is a known problem that there is a hard start condition and a stumble on low revs with too high fuel pressures on the VP44. The low rev stumble should not apply since you have an auto and won't be able to get below 400 rpm.

AFAIK the problem comes from the fuel pressure used to set timing and cold fuel being to viscuous(sp?) to be bled off by the orifice therefore mistiming the injection during startup.

HTH
AlpineRAM

 

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=4;threadid=19177;start=0#msg180340 date=1062647946]
But it only does it when it's hot.
[/quote]

So? Doesn't matter, your fuel pressure is too high for starting purposes regardless of when it does it.

 

I've been doing what Alpine said and so far so good. Only problem is that everytime I've driven the truck since I've been doing it that way, it's been sitting for at least an hour.

 

My truck did that twice this summer. I changed fuel supplies and it has not happened since.

 

I agree, if I were you I would go back to stock.

--Justin

 

Good news. I went and drove the truck around for about 20-30 minutes (it's about 90* outside and I was sitting in traffic). The water temp was up to 190 for a while. When I got home. I turned the truck and pump off. Went and turned the key to the on position and turned the pump on for about 2-4 seconds then I turned it off. Went to crank it, it fired right up. No hesitation, no hard start, nothing. I tried it 2 more times and every time, it fired right up. At least I know this isn't a problem anymore. Thank god. Thanks for the help yall.

 

Now that you know this you could look into the ECM output stuff to see whether it's really shot or not.
If not, wire the relais into the stock LP harness, if yes you can try the following: Search for a source that is on with the ignition on , but off on start. Or if there is none, wire a relay to the starter that will interrupt the LP relay supply for run when it's hot. Should solve the problem.

HTH

AlpineRAM

 

I have a PE 4200 and have the same problem. it is hooked up to the stock wireharness. will it work if we have a switch too and not turn it on until the engine is on instead of having it 20psi. I hope this will work.

 

Hey BigBlue:

I've read a lot of your posts and you seem to be pretty knowlegable, but if I'm not mistaken, I think you had a question about how a relway worked recently.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
Here is a link to a site that describes pretty well how they work and how to use it. Howstuffworks.com is also a pretty good site, might help you out some.

Good luck.