Hello everyone, I'm dropping my fuel tank tomorrow because I think I have a bad sending unit. Truck died last week and won't restart. A preliminary investigation has revealed that there is no fuel in tank, although gauge reads 1/4 tank full. I reckon this is as good a time as any to change out the sender. Lifting the bed is out of the question so down comes the tank. I am 123 lbs of fighting fury and have dropped older smaller steel tanks before but need to know if there are any common snags involved in removing this tank. The manual indicates that there are some tricky connectors to deal with. Do I need any special tools? I think it's far better for me to ask now before I have a 5 foot bohemouth laying on my chest. I will use my lift jack with a section of lumber attached to it. All suggestions gladly accepted and appreciated. I also enjoy fuel tank stories and fuel tank humor too. Thanks!

 

My brother's just been keeping track of his mileage for the past five years or so since the sending unit went bad on his 12v! Good luck.

 

the fuel lines and connections are plastic and brake real easy the rest should be strait forward

 

I dropped mine not too long ago and used an atv jack and a 1/2 sheet of plywood to lower it down. Just let it down some and unhook everything and your done. I used an impact because it was so much easier than turning a ratchet. Not too bad of a job unless you have almost a full tank of fuel...don't ask.

 

Don't know if you have the wheel well liners or not in the rear. If you do you should remove the driver's side one as it will allow easier access to the fuel lines. Make sure to spray the bolts to the tank straps liberally with your favorite penetrating spray the day before. Also I have found that a zip-tie can work wonders for removing the quick connects for the fuel lines if you are having trouble with them.
mishkaya

 

Another trick I use when putting a tank back in place when it has fuel in it is to use tie down straps hooked onto the frame to keep the tank from running away from you when the fuel all rushes to one end of the tank.

I let the tank rest on those and as I lift the tank with the floor jack I just keep pulling the slack out of the straps. They support the tank at both ends and and are really quick to release when you are done.

 

Thanks for the good luck jentas, I'm always glad for it. You worry me rebal, plastic connectors can sometimes be the work of the Devil but I'll keep my fingers crossed. Ok hamilton71801, tank is empty so that is in my favor. The compressor is too far away from where the tow truck off-loaded my truck so impact wrench is out. Thank goodness for rust breaker and a good ratchet wrench. mishkaya, I didn't think of removing the wheel well, I'll start there first. Zip ties, a modern miracle! I would not have thought of that. I will report back on how this repair progresses. If not for this forum and all of you good folks, I'd be lost in regards to diesel engines. I have read and searched and read and certainly understand a lot more than I did a few days ago. Bless ya!

 

You can pull the rear driveshaft if you want to give you some more room but it's not necessary.

 

I went through this exercise last month when I put in a Transferflow tank. Pulling the drive shaft allowed me to work on the "quick disconnect" fuel and electrical fittings from the backside. Getting those things off was a real PITA. I used a tranny jack to lower it but used tie down straps and a floor jack to install the new tank. Using the straps to lower/raise each end a little at a time is the way to go.

 

I have never dropped the tank but the quick disconnect I used a small zip tie to keep the ears squeezed .

push in on the lines, zip tie the ears, and pull it off

 

We always pull the bed, a few bolts tail light pig and three or four guys or a lift.

 

I haven't dropped a tank but I will tell you that after removing the bed bolts, spare tire crank thinggy and license plate bracket, I was able to lift my bed up by myself with my feet and set a bed rail on my fiver mount. It held the bed up a few inches which allowed me to sit infront of my tire and access the fuel lines quite well. Like I said though, I wasn't dropping the tank, just installing my FASS. The plastic not-so-quick-disconnects face the center of the truck so pulling them towards the wheel well makes removal a tad easier...

 

Wow, I can't believe all of the great suggestions I have received. Other forums may have just laughed at me for asking but you all have offered some valuable information which will make this a lot easier for me. Just knowing the little tricks for disconnecting a tricky connector is invaluable. Lary Ellis, I will secure the tank so it doesn't get away from me. busa, If I need some extra space, I will remove the drive shaft. Thanks cstroup, camelracer, gwhammy and PChouinard for your suggestions too, it all helps!.

 

Zip ties...dang it, that sounds like it would have saved me a couple of hours when I was trying to take off the fuel line.

 

At least you should be able to remember the trick for next time, if there ever is one...
mishkaya