I got a good question that is specialized...

I know that it is required to idle your truck to cool the turbo down... How much time with...

Without Jake / High Idle over time?

With Jake / Without High Idle over time?

Without Jake / With High Idle over Time?

This would be a good thing to add to a web page for newbies!!!!

I'm real curious about... (No I don't have a Pyro yet!)

1. Is it cooling enough over time?

2. Is it holding enough heat to idle long periods?

3. Or do I need to adjust times?

 

For my, Rule of thumb = 60 sec when empty around town, etc
2 min if coming off hwy
3 min if have been working truck hard.
These should be more than enough! As you seem to already know, a gauge is the only way to be sure.
Rowland

 

I don't let my turbo cool off at all. I just shut her down. I've been doing it that way for 66K miles. Turbo spins just as free as it did when I bought it and it's still just as tight. I figure that there's 500K CTD owners who don't bother letting them cool down and they don't have problems. I know of a bunch of guys around here that don't let theirs cool down. Some have over 100K miles on them.

 

I know it's not a CTD, but on my work truck the exhaust brake does hold heat in the turbo longer. At low idle it will still cool off eventually (say 10 minutes or so), but if you idle at 1000 RPM it will stay above 400 degrees even in temps below freezing.

 

This is more what I'm looking for... Sometimes I got to stop at the store to pickup or drop of something quick... Sometimes it takes abit... 5-15 minutes... So I leave the jake on and leave it idle...

I've noticed that the MPG drops if I shutdown at every stop (5 - 15 minutes) compared to leaving it idle at the stops...It's like the truck thinks it cold again for a short time...

So basically I'm trying to find out if I'm keeping enough EGT temp for the long idle... (Jake On! or High Idle on!)

Help me out here people with temps F' and with times Mins. for the people that DO have pyro's

 

For me it's a question of how I want my truck to run at 200,000 & 300,000 miles. If turbos do coke up-I figure it takes at least 100,000 miles to create operational problems - if ever. How much HP you have makes a difference also, IMHO.

Do what I do (below 300*) cause it feels like good PM (preventative maintenance) and I sleep better at night. Same reason I run synthetics and change oil @8-10,000 miles.
To each his own.
Rowland

 

That the whole reason for the question... I trying not to get close to coking up the turbo or dillution of the oil from being to cool. I'm trying to get pass the warranty period then I'm going to add the gauges to the truck...

Meanwhile... I'm trying to find out from people that DO have pyro's how long CTD can idle using these two devices... I know approx. without both but there is no doc's showing how long with either device or is some cases with mod's both devices running!

 

From BB

"I figure that there's 500K CTD owners who don't bother letting them cool down and they don't have problems. I know of a bunch of guys around here that don't let theirs cool down"

"Not I" said the cat. Maybe you'll remember this post next time you tell me to shut her off at 400* !

From Mopar73man:

"I'm trying to get pass the warranty period then I'm going to add the gauges to the truck..."

What do you mean by past the warrenty period? Are you talking about the 100k warrenty? My guess is that 9 outta 10 dealers won't hassle you for gauges. Is your dealer that **** about mods? When I took mine in for a fp test, they thanked me for installing gauges. If your dealer does seem to have a stick up his butt, then perhaps try another dealer down the road. If they do try and void your warenty, then you can fight back by saying "how did these gauges cause a problem, prove to me that they caused a malfunction" and so on. Just my $.02.

Good luck,
Hunter

 

It isn't the cool down period its the keepin' warm enough during extended idling...No one can tell me how warm it will stay!!!!

Once again its not the COOL down its the STAYING WARM time...

As for dealers I will end up traveling a extra 120 Miles to the next one! (No thanx!) Fuel is high enough now.... I've got the 1 in 10 that do! As for closer dealer no I don't want a FORD or CHEVY dealer working on MY CTD!!

My dealer wasn't happy when I added a MP3 stereo into the dash... I was even nice enough to get the adapter for the harness... But that is the dealer though...

 

Well sorry to hear that you have one of THOSE dealers. They gave you crap for installing an MP3 player? OUCH, that does suck to have a picky dealer as you mentioned. As for the "keeping warm period" I'm sorry I can't help you there, it doesn't get cold enough here in TX to have to worry about that. Wait, there's your solution---MOVE TO TX !!

 

I think I am understanding what you asking. You want to know what EGT's you are getting while idling with the exhasut brake ON and OFF? Is this right? If so then depending on the weather you will normally get around 275*-300* just idling. Idle with the A/C or defrost ON and it goes up 25*-50*. Idle with the exhaust brake ON and your EGT's will be around 400*-450*, depending how long or hard you were driving. Idling with the exhaust brake on for long periods is OK. Idling for long periods without the exhaust brake is also OK as long as EGT's stay around 300* and up plus engine water temp is above 140*. Extended idling is not recomended by Cummins but no one has seem to pin point how long extended exactly is.

 

Exactly! Thank you! Your the answer I've been looking for! As long as the coolant & EGT is high enough to completely burn the fuel then the idle is OK but what I know from Cummins they suggest the high idle (how much is high idle? 1,100?).

But what I'm seeing from you on a warm day you can pull up to the local store and hop out and leave the truck run for 10 to 15 minutes without hurting it (JAKE ON).

From watch my fuel reports... When you make a run to town 15-20 miles and warm the truck up good (65 MPH) you will enter town and slow to 25 for 2 miles (Lower EGT) now you stop at a store and shut down for 10 - 15 mins. Now start and move 1/4 mile. Shut down. Etc.. your getting the pic. My fuel MPG is reduced 2 MPG average. So if I leave it run for the quick stops I don't lose that 2 MPG for the cold cycle restart. (Yes the grid cycles for what I don't know!) Outside temp 60-70* engine temp 185-190*

 

1,000 RPM is enough to keep things warm indefinitely on my work truck.

 

On warm days, 5-10 min of idle is nothing. Especially if the A/C is on. If its hot out then the issue is even less. This is all with the exhaust brake OFF. With it ON you can idle anytime all day! I only really use the exhaust brake to idle in the winter because EGT's can get down to 250* if it sits for 10 min or so. I try to leave the defrost on when idling, too. Keeps it a little warmer. High idlers are OK but you do use more fuel that way so you might as well shut down. I'm sure you already heard this but gauges would make life a whole lot easier for you in all aspects with your problem.

 

Yeah with my new engine I marveled at how fast it cooled to 250 to shut off. So much quicker than the old engine(s) Then I charged the air conditioning... Back to taking forever to cool. Don't want to wear out he switch shutting it off every stop.

Did I mention how nice it is to have air conditioning back again?