dan239

I have a 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500 with 4 wheel antilocks. I am going to disable and I would like to know the best way to do it. I can do it easy enough but I get the warning lights on the dash for "brake" and "abs". Would like to know how to disable the abs and not get the lights.

Do not bother to tell me not to do this because I have had the antilocks almost cause me an accident more than once. The last time I came over a hill on a two lane road and a car was stopped waiting to turn left. I had enough room to stop until the antilocks took the brakes away from me. I was able to take to the bar ditch to avoid hitting the car.

Please do not post your reasons to why you would be afraid to do this. I am not interested and do not wish to waste my time reading your post.

I have spent much time studying this system and have not found a way to disable without the warning lights. If any one has an answer, please tell me how to do it. I know others who would be very happy to know, also.

Daniel

Dislexia_34

Pull the lights out from behind the dash... Problem solved.

j-fox

This is how.

Near the ABS unit is where the wheel sensors come up.
locate the three inputs.
Left front, right front, and rear. I can't tell you right now the wire colors, but may this weekend.

Cut the wires so you can re splice them later. Now tie the rear sensor to all three inputs.

This way the computer always thinks you are driving straight ahead and will NEVER try to kill you.

Yes, I've had a wreck too, and been put in the ditch by my great safety device called anti-braking.
Let me know if you need anything, and feel free to PM me.

dan239

I am aware that this would get rid of the lights, but I had the local Chrysler Service Manager tell me that on some vehicles it would sense the lights not working and cause a further problem.

I decided to disable the abs by pulling the plug from the CAB to the motor on the HCU and go into the dash far enough to put black tape on the two lights. It is more difficult to pull the instrument cluster and get to the bulbs. I can live with it this way but I would rather not have the lights on.

Daniel

dan239

Thanks for the suggestion, but I have a concern that this would solve the problem. I had a previous truck that had rear abs and it did the same thing. All I had to do to it was pull the connector off of the abs controller and it disabled the antilocks with no dash lights.

I do have a service manual with schematics, so I can easily determine the proper wires. The wires to the front sensors are the four wires on the small connector on top of the CAB.

I can pull the abs fuse on my truck but I lose my speedometer.

Have you done the wire trick on a truck and had it never take the brakes away again?

Daniel

j-fox

It worked on a 2000 2500, and my 2002.

dan239

Thanks very much, I will try it and post back my results.

Daniel

johnh

i think the abs system is a very good system for some one that would have trouble walking and chewing gum at the same time...all kidding aside, the winter and icy roads are where it works best.
many times before abs, applying brakes on ice was a learning experience, i didn't know which way i would go but with abs, straight would be the norm.....i like the system only for that reason..........i'm with the op, trying to stop in an emergency should not be taken over by a computer
my truck will not slide the wheels on dry pavement

dan239

I am having a problem making this work. Perhaps I am not understanding what you did. I cut the front four sensor wires and made me two jumper wires from the two rear sensor wires. I then spliced these jumpers into the front wires going into the CAB [Controller Antilock Brakes]. I made sure to maintain polarity plus to plus and minus to minus. When I started my truck the warning lights went out, but when I drove a little distance the lights came back on. I tried this twice and the first time they came on after about 500 feet. The second time they came on after about one half mile. The four wires to the front sensors were unconnected and taped off.

Any suggestions?

Daniel

rickf

I am thinking you may have to solder the wires where they all connect before the controller since any resistance at all will cause noise in the circuit and give you problems. Basically what you are doing is making the one rear sensor power all three inputs so they all sense the same speed. Sounds like you have that part right but since it is throwing a code after you move then it is sensing a difference in wheel speed. Only thing I can think of is a bad connection.
BTW, Try plowing snow with ABS, What a pain in the ****! I have smacked so many curbs because I could not lock the wheels.

Rick

j-fox

My manual is at my shop--10 miles away.
I will be there later today to do things.
My notes are gone. I lost them in the fire.
monday my truck burnt to the ground at 65 mph.

I had just bought a 98 sprinter 5th wheel.
Something shorted and I lost everything. Everything but life and cell phone.

SIXSLUG

Duct tape across the instrument panel, or the bottom half of your glasses!!

I am with you on the abs, though seriously, I have been driving long enough to trust my reflexes and mad skills...

Probably need to connect the wiring so its not reading a ground, which indicates a malfunction.

dan239

Thanks for the suggestion, but all wires are soldered.

Daniel

dan239

I believe that my wiring is correct or it would not turn the lights off at startup. My lights are coming on consistently after about 500 feet.

Daniel

dan239

I do have another idea on this problem. Perhaps in all my doing I have set a code in the abs. My scanner will not read abs codes. I tried disconnecting the batteries but it did not make any difference.

Does any one know if the abs codes are supposed to clear on battery disconnect?

Daniel