What brand and weight of 2 stroke oil are you useing with good success?

Thanks!

 

I have been using wal-mart 2 stroke outboard motor oil. as long as its outboard TCW-3 its ashless. I use 8oz per 10 gal. in my 98 24v

 

Is 2 stroke better than 'Diesel Services additive'

 

i use both 2-stroke oil at 2qts to a tank and 8oz of power service or similar. truck is alot quieter and i cant tell about mpg saving b/c i cant keep my foot out of it with the Smarty .

diesefan

 

I use the penzoil and citgo ash-less... Whatever is on sale. It seems to have made a modest improvement in economy but I'm not sure its enough to offset the cost. Its mostly for my piece of mind.

The smarty has completely rocked my fuel economy though. I'm +3 for a 19.8 average in crappy Illinois traffic. Best city mileage I've ever had.

 

coalburner400, what setting are you running your smarty?

thanks dieselfan

 

I'm running on the 5th setting. I've put 1400 miles on the truck since I added the smarty. I've dropped the hammer about 15 times (10 were just goof'n around, the other 5 times were evasive maneuvering in traffic).

 

Any of the two-stroke oils are suitable, in any color but red - non-taxed Diesel fuel for farm and non-road use is red-tinted for hiway patrol federal inspection, so you do not want any hint of red in your on-road taxed fuel.

Sears was selling a dark-red tinted oil for weed-eaters and such, iirc.

Adding the oil isn't to increase fuel mileage, tho it may help a little.

Diesel fuel - a light oil - is a primary lubricant in the VP pump - the process of removing sulphur also reduces the lubricity components in the fuel.

We don't need the suplhur, as that's where most of the soot comes from, but the Bosch and Stanadyne rotary distributor type pumps are suffering from the resultant reduced lubricity.

Refiner's claim to be restoring lubricity components, but as the late common-rail EFI systems do not require it, who knows the what-when-where and how-much of it in the stuff at the pump.

So, two-stroke oils, it is, as they are meant for lubrication and combustion-chamber service.

If useage also kicks up the fuel mileage some, that's an added benefit, but don't forget to add some each time you fuel up - your VP depends on it.

Word up, dudes.................

 

Ive just started running Valveline 2 stroke TC-W3, I tryed about 50 to 1 mix. About 26 oz to 10 gal. Think I added alittle less. Still experimenting with the mix, 100 to 1 might be good enough, ??

Im also putting in Marvel mystry oil 4 oz to 10 gal

I was useing power service , but havent bought any lately

 

I mix mine with PS for about a 200:1 mixture in diesel. I ran about 4k on mine before I changed out my injectors, they looked good.

Jim

 

Just run bio diesel instead.

 

use any and all for years now with no probs.

 

A PhD, and chief engineer at clevite for many years, suggested 2oz with powerservice or stanadyne formula per 10gal about five or four years ago, back when all this was just starting good.

I haven't heard lately, but now - in my 6.5TD GMC - I'm using 8oz per 10gal with 8oz powerservice, which has lubricity and cetane improvers.

I use powerservice only in the Dodge 12v, as the Bosch P7100 IP is lubricated by hi-pressure oil from the engine.

As you know, cetane enhancer improves Diesel fuel's ability to self-combust at high temperature, just the opposite of octane enhancer, which lowers a fuel's ability to self combust.

We get excellent power from detonation - that manly Diesel rattle - where gasoline engines begin to self-destruct with detonation - pre-ignition, or pinging.

So, a cetane-improver can help with better power and fuel mileage - most C+ improvers also have lubricity enhancers, and reports are that the ratios have been increased to compensate for the new fuel(s).

BTW , feel free to do a search on the 'net - all this info is freely available for your viewing pleasure, in detail.

I just give the reader's digest version to keep from hoggin' the thread..........

 

The mmo is red?

 

MMO was very red at one time - I've never used that stuff since I discovered automatic transmission fluid as a viable substitute, back when I was a teenager and couldn't afford the expensive stuff .

I needed something to trickle into the intake of a running gasser to break up the carbon buildup in the upper cylinders - atf worked wonders, and much, much cheaper than mmo.

As atf is not formulated for combustion chamber service, it absolutely does not go into my Diesel fuel tank - and, the seal-softener additives cause the orings in the Inj Pump to soften and swell, destroying their sealing function.

There may be farming country folks on the forum here that can tell you plenty about the penalties involved, so make sure your additive is not red.

Iirc, any and all repeated fuel analysis required by the feds come out of the perp's pocket, whether he chooses to challenge the charges, or not.