Had it with the 53
Had it with the 53
I am ready to find a new block and replace my leaky 53. Any help would be appreciated. I have LNS and Glued w/ extreme adhesives, and nothing seems to work. What a surprise! LNS lasted 3 years, but the crack grew. It is now about 9-10 inches long. I carry 3-4 gallon of 50/50 in the bed. I cannot sell it or trade it like it is so it leaves me know choice. Cummins no longer has the 1000 incentive for trading it out. I only have 143k on the motor, and it runs great! I have had enough. Anybody in the KC, MO area that knows a good diesel mechanic?
LNS worked for 3 years. It cracked next to the repair. It started out as 4 inch crack it is now about 9 inches. Leaking a gallon every 60 or 70 miles while I tow. Thinking about parking it and buying something else. Can't sell, can't trade it. I would sell it for the right price. Thinking about putting on ebay and putting a reserve on it. Going to be honest about it. It has a Bank power pak kit on it $$$. It has been detuned a bit because of tranny issues in the past. All good now. The banks chip just needs to be reflashed to get the full power back.
Not sure around your area, but I was at a local salvage yard, awhile back and he had a dozen or more! 24v's sitting on the floor, not a 53block amonst them, he said he rarely ever sells a complete engine, unless someone is doing a motor conversion, funny thing was he was selling them around 2500-3000$, mine is a 53block with 419,000kilometers on it, and driven hard 8hrs a day, hope it holds. if it does go I'll be scowering the salvage yards for a low mileage non 53 engine and drop it in complete.
I think my wife and I are going shopping this weekend for a Suburban 4x4. I think I will park my truck, suspend the insurance and wait for a used motor (non-53). The trailers I tow could be towed with the SUV. I am hoping to find something in range of $2500.00. I would have a complete motor to ****** parts except for the block. Seems like the only resolution to me. A new factory cummins motor is roughly in the range of $8500 and 30 hours to install @ $100/hr. A Jasper motor is just as high.
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I am ready to find a new block and replace my leaky 53. Any help would be appreciated. I have LNS and Glued w/ extreme adhesives, and nothing seems to work. What a surprise! LNS lasted 3 years, but the crack grew. It is now about 9-10 inches long. I carry 3-4 gallon of 50/50 in the bed. I cannot sell it or trade it like it is so it leaves me know choice. Cummins no longer has the 1000 incentive for trading it out. I only have 143k on the motor, and it runs great! I have had enough. Anybody in the KC, MO area that knows a good diesel mechanic?
Try Forest City Diesel 573-265-5595
18375 County Road 1000* St.James MO 65559
Keith
Ive posted a fix for this before here's what I have done to many cracked blocks 1st stop drill a hole at the each end of the crack then grind the block as smooth as possible cut and form 1/8-3/16 plate to conform to the block over the crack making the plate wider and longer then the crack,now drill and tap 1/4 28 threads in the block all around the edge of the plate so the plate can be bolted on, use sealant and a gasket between the plate and tighten it down.I know its work but if you think about it there's a big plate on the bottom of the motor holding the oil in right?
The plate concept seems like it could work, but depending on the location. The 53 block crack is a terrible location. The block has a curve in it that would make it rather difficult to machine something to fit just right. It is also a location of great stress.
if you call the 1800-diesel number for cummins and express to them your ultimate dissatisfaction they will cover the block gaskets and rings. also pistons if they are graded. oh and bearings, you pay labor and any other required materials. I did a bunch this way
Ive posted a fix for this before here's what I have done to many cracked blocks 1st stop drill a hole at the each end of the crack then grind the block as smooth as possible cut and form 1/8-3/16 plate to conform to the block over the crack making the plate wider and longer then the crack,now drill and tap 1/4 28 threads in the block all around the edge of the plate so the plate can be bolted on, use sealant and a gasket between the plate and tighten it down.I know its work but if you think about it there's a big plate on the bottom of the motor holding the oil in right?
Have you really seen where the crack is and how it looks? I doubt that you have, you post is nonsense. The crack is in about a 1/2 inch radius.
Just above the pan rail, interesting. Obvioulsy we are talkin about a different issue. Thanks for clearing that up. This discussion has gone on for years. One or two claim that stiching will work, most do not. One said that you can heat the block and weld it.... whatever. The truth is that the cracked block is a boat anchor. There is no way you could bolt a cover plate over the 53 crack as it is in an inside radius.
I still have one left here, you can have it, its the second one of mine that cracked.
I still have one left here, you can have it, its the second one of mine that cracked.


