Fuel Pressure and Dead Pedal
11-08-2015, 01:23 PM
#151
Registered User
Its been so long I cant remember what the warranty was but their website says, "Covered by a Limited Lifetime Warranty and 90-Day Free-Ride Offer."
They adjust with a **** on the bottom of the housing. Or there's kits which use air pressure and an in cab gauge and button to adjust them from your seat, but I cant remember how much that whole thing costs.
You can get Rancho's all over the place but looking online will probably get you the best prices. Their website says 4 for the price of 3 but I'm not sure how long that promo is for.
And try this link for the video. http://vid530.photobucket.com/albums...pshwnyjhuc.mp4
They adjust with a **** on the bottom of the housing. Or there's kits which use air pressure and an in cab gauge and button to adjust them from your seat, but I cant remember how much that whole thing costs.
You can get Rancho's all over the place but looking online will probably get you the best prices. Their website says 4 for the price of 3 but I'm not sure how long that promo is for.
And try this link for the video. http://vid530.photobucket.com/albums...pshwnyjhuc.mp4
11-08-2015, 01:27 PM
#152
Registered User
Thread Starter
wow yours actually looks very similar to mine!
Those ranchos are actually quite a bit pricier than the bilsteins though. I guess the adjustability is nice but I'm not sure I want to spend that much. I am worried about them being to stiff though so I'm really not sure weather to spend the extra and go with ranchos or go with the bilstein 4600 or 5100 :-/ guess i just need to pic one and go with it haha
Those ranchos are actually quite a bit pricier than the bilsteins though. I guess the adjustability is nice but I'm not sure I want to spend that much. I am worried about them being to stiff though so I'm really not sure weather to spend the extra and go with ranchos or go with the bilstein 4600 or 5100 :-/ guess i just need to pic one and go with it haha
11-08-2015, 01:37 PM
#153
Registered User
If they both have a ride satisfaction guarantee then make sure wherever you get them from is OK with you potentially not liking them and swapping for another.
11-09-2015, 08:59 AM
#154
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well I went with the 5100 from Geno's. I also got a new oem steering stabilizer. I'm hoping to install them next weekend.
My engine temp wasn't what I was hoping for on the way to work this morning :-( it took forever to start coming up and then as soon as I got to work and let it idle it dropped to the first tick mark! So I decided to add a gates thermostat to my Geno's order and see if that is any better. I also had kind of a hard start this morning too and I'm not sure why, it was cooler, about 40 but that shouldn't have caused it. I'm thinking I may take the extra shim out of the fuel bypass valve. It brought my pressure up but the gauge needle bounces some and I had the hard start this morning so in thinking of putting it back the way it was for now. I just don't like the pressure being so close to the 15 psi mark.
My engine temp wasn't what I was hoping for on the way to work this morning :-( it took forever to start coming up and then as soon as I got to work and let it idle it dropped to the first tick mark! So I decided to add a gates thermostat to my Geno's order and see if that is any better. I also had kind of a hard start this morning too and I'm not sure why, it was cooler, about 40 but that shouldn't have caused it. I'm thinking I may take the extra shim out of the fuel bypass valve. It brought my pressure up but the gauge needle bounces some and I had the hard start this morning so in thinking of putting it back the way it was for now. I just don't like the pressure being so close to the 15 psi mark.
11-09-2015, 10:42 AM
#155
Registered User
I hope your shocks work awesome. I hear good things about Bilstein so do inform how they act.
Thats certainly not right about the engine temp. Not sure why this issue is so prevalent with these engines. I find it odd that so many people run into this but yet so many dont.
So in saying that, I hope the Geno's version works better. Although it "could" have merely been a bubble in the system working its way out since it can take full warm up and full cool down to cause that pressure / vacuum needed to pull the bubble out.
As for the hard starting, dont forget that the only reason for a hard starting condition when the engine is cold is from a leak. You can get a couple extra cranks trying to start an ice cold engine in super cold weather but thats not the same. But.....if the grids arent working right, which I'm sure isnt your problem, then it will cause a little extra cranking when the weather is cooler. Point being.....just look for a possible leak before assuming anything else since that was the last thing you did.
Thats certainly not right about the engine temp. Not sure why this issue is so prevalent with these engines. I find it odd that so many people run into this but yet so many dont.
So in saying that, I hope the Geno's version works better. Although it "could" have merely been a bubble in the system working its way out since it can take full warm up and full cool down to cause that pressure / vacuum needed to pull the bubble out.As for the hard starting, dont forget that the only reason for a hard starting condition when the engine is cold is from a leak. You can get a couple extra cranks trying to start an ice cold engine in super cold weather but thats not the same. But.....if the grids arent working right, which I'm sure isnt your problem, then it will cause a little extra cranking when the weather is cooler. Point being.....just look for a possible leak before assuming anything else since that was the last thing you did.
11-09-2015, 04:02 PM
#156
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks again for all the advice. That's why I like posting what's going on for you to read. You come back with some words of wisdom that keep me from doing something rash out of haste lol. I won't get the new thermostat until next weekend anyway so I'll keep driving all week and see how the current one performs. I don't mind if I have to send the gates one from Geno's back because I need to return the APPS I bought from them anyway. I haven't had anymore problems with it and it's too expensive of an item to keep around "just in case".
As for the hard starting, I'm going to leave that alone for now too because I want to experiment with the bypass valve timing some more anyway.
As for the hard starting, I'm going to leave that alone for now too because I want to experiment with the bypass valve timing some more anyway.
11-10-2015, 05:50 AM
#158
Registered User
Thread Starter
So I have some interesting results to an experiment I tried last night with regards to the hard start issue. I plugged the truck in with a timer last night so it was on from about 3:30-6:20 when I started the truck. I expected that it would start the same and so indicate a fuel leak. Nope. It started like a champ! So my initial thought would be weak batteries, they don't have enough juice after running the grids in 40° weather. being plugged in the grids didn't run so didn't have that issue. But the batteries are brand new from Napa. I dont remember the exact cca but I know it's over 1000 per each and they've been tested multiple times, the whole charging system has in fact. And I know all my cable ends are good because they were just replaced and switched to ordnance terminals. I also know that my grid heater connections are good because I went through them this summer as well. I know the grids cycle because I get the normal dimming of the lights and dipping of charge gauge after starting when cold. What would be your next thought on a possible cause?
11-10-2015, 09:42 AM
#159
Registered User
So I have some interesting results to an experiment I tried last night with regards to the hard start issue. I plugged the truck in with a timer last night so it was on from about 3:30-6:20 when I started the truck. I expected that it would start the same and so indicate a fuel leak. Nope. It started like a champ! So my initial thought would be weak batteries, they don't have enough juice after running the grids in 40° weather. being plugged in the grids didn't run so didn't have that issue. But the batteries are brand new from Napa. I dont remember the exact cca but I know it's over 1000 per each and they've been tested multiple times, the whole charging system has in fact. And I know all my cable ends are good because they were just replaced and switched to ordnance terminals. I also know that my grid heater connections are good because I went through them this summer as well. I know the grids cycle because I get the normal dimming of the lights and dipping of charge gauge after starting when cold. What would be your next thought on a possible cause?
The batteries: Just because they're new doesn't always mean they're perfect. Lots of people have pulled bad batteries right off the shelf. Battery cells can be contaminated from cellular breakdown over time causing lead material to collect at the bottom of the battery, eventually shorting out some of the cells (ie, dead cell), or cells can be damaged from moving them around or dropping or jarring which could also cause cell material to short against each other. And dont over estimate simple bad production line either. So in point, check the batteries separate from each other and the truck to assure they're both OK.
Corrosion: Your fan clutch was obviously corroded so I can only imagine you live where road salts are used, which means that battery cables, wire connections, and major grounds are also covered in the white junk which does work "inside" the cables too. If thats the case then assuring that everything is clean and tight and free from corrosion is important when dealing with high amperage distribution. You said that you've already changed battery cables but dont forget all the other large cable ends, like at the fuse/relay box and the starter. And dont forget grounds either.
Grids: They can seem like they're working but remember that there are two of them and they both are supposed to heat up. Here's a good check list for the grid system to be sure everything is working as it should be. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems Especially if plugging it in results in normal starting.
Starter: You got your truck used so are you sure that the PO didn't replace the starter? The OEM starters on these engines are very very strong and usually last forever. The only thing they need about every 100k miles is the solenoid contacts and plungers replaced. But usually when people have a little trouble with their starter, and they find out that OEM replacement Denso units are $400+ dollars, they pick up one of those cheapo lifetime replacement over the counter starters which dont last long and can drag or crank slower than they should. And in saying that, a 20 rpm reduction in starting speed will cause a hard start. Thats not saying your starter isnt OEM but just another variable in the list of potentials.....
11-10-2015, 10:57 AM
#160
Registered User
Thread Starter
What you're describing is usually a sign of these possible culprits.....
The batteries: Just because they're new doesn't always mean they're perfect. Lots of people have pulled bad batteries right off the shelf. Battery cells can be contaminated from cellular breakdown over time causing lead material to collect at the bottom of the battery, eventually shorting out some of the cells (ie, dead cell), or cells can be damaged from moving them around or dropping or jarring which could also cause cell material to short against each other. And dont over estimate simple bad production line either. So in point, check the batteries separate from each other and the truck to assure they're both OK.
Corrosion: Your fan clutch was obviously corroded so I can only imagine you live where road salts are used, which means that battery cables, wire connections, and major grounds are also covered in the white junk which does work "inside" the cables too. If thats the case then assuring that everything is clean and tight and free from corrosion is important when dealing with high amperage distribution. You said that you've already changed battery cables but dont forget all the other large cable ends, like at the fuse/relay box and the starter. And dont forget grounds either.
Grids: They can seem like they're working but remember that there are two of them and they both are supposed to heat up. Here's a good check list for the grid system to be sure everything is working as it should be. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems Especially if plugging it in results in normal starting.
Starter: You got your truck used so are you sure that the PO didn't replace the starter? The OEM starters on these engines are very very strong and usually last forever. The only thing they need about every 100k miles is the solenoid contacts and plungers replaced. But usually when people have a little trouble with their starter, and they find out that OEM replacement Denso units are $400+ dollars, they pick up one of those cheapo lifetime replacement over the counter starters which dont last long and can drag or crank slower than they should. And in saying that, a 20 rpm reduction in starting speed will cause a hard start. Thats not saying your starter isnt OEM but just another variable in the list of potentials.....
The batteries: Just because they're new doesn't always mean they're perfect. Lots of people have pulled bad batteries right off the shelf. Battery cells can be contaminated from cellular breakdown over time causing lead material to collect at the bottom of the battery, eventually shorting out some of the cells (ie, dead cell), or cells can be damaged from moving them around or dropping or jarring which could also cause cell material to short against each other. And dont over estimate simple bad production line either. So in point, check the batteries separate from each other and the truck to assure they're both OK.
Corrosion: Your fan clutch was obviously corroded so I can only imagine you live where road salts are used, which means that battery cables, wire connections, and major grounds are also covered in the white junk which does work "inside" the cables too. If thats the case then assuring that everything is clean and tight and free from corrosion is important when dealing with high amperage distribution. You said that you've already changed battery cables but dont forget all the other large cable ends, like at the fuse/relay box and the starter. And dont forget grounds either.
Grids: They can seem like they're working but remember that there are two of them and they both are supposed to heat up. Here's a good check list for the grid system to be sure everything is working as it should be. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems Especially if plugging it in results in normal starting.
Starter: You got your truck used so are you sure that the PO didn't replace the starter? The OEM starters on these engines are very very strong and usually last forever. The only thing they need about every 100k miles is the solenoid contacts and plungers replaced. But usually when people have a little trouble with their starter, and they find out that OEM replacement Denso units are $400+ dollars, they pick up one of those cheapo lifetime replacement over the counter starters which dont last long and can drag or crank slower than they should. And in saying that, a 20 rpm reduction in starting speed will cause a hard start. Thats not saying your starter isnt OEM but just another variable in the list of potentials.....
I also believe I am good on corrosion since I checked things over pretty good when trying to solve that issue before.
The grids could definitely be the issue. The link you posted said the page could not be found, do you know of anywhere else to find instructions on that? And what about the grid heater relay?
The starter could also very well be the culprit. I know for a fact that the PO replaced it with one from AdvanceAuto as he gave me the reciept. However, would a weak starter only manifest itself in slightly cool weather? Wouldn't I always have problems with it? Or could the draining of the batteries by the grids cause a weak starter to be even weaker? What would be the best way to test it and where can a get a good one?
Thanks again for all the help!
11-10-2015, 12:38 PM
#161
Registered User
Try this link. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems It should work for you as it works for me.
And yes, weak starters and/or "starting" issues arise under two conditions.....
Cold weather which sucks the power out of the batteries just from being cold (thus the term CCA) and then adding the 95 amps / 1140 watts per cable required by the grid heaters, will cause a weak electrical system and/or a weak starter to become apparent. Not to get off track but this is why short frequent trips during cold weather are not advised in a truck like these since the repeated grid heaters cycling will deplete the batteries faster than the charging system can replenish.
Moving on..... During hot weather when the batteries and everything else are hot then physics says that it takes more amperage to crank the engine due to the increase in resistance. Its when the weather is nice and tepid that everything works right and the engine starts easy.
But all that said, even with those variables involved, if the batteries are fine, connections are good and no corrosion, the starter is good, the grid heaters are working as they should, there are no fuel leaks and fuel pressure is not too high during engine cranking, your truck should start normal when the weather is both cold and hot.
And yes, weak starters and/or "starting" issues arise under two conditions.....
Cold weather which sucks the power out of the batteries just from being cold (thus the term CCA) and then adding the 95 amps / 1140 watts per cable required by the grid heaters, will cause a weak electrical system and/or a weak starter to become apparent. Not to get off track but this is why short frequent trips during cold weather are not advised in a truck like these since the repeated grid heaters cycling will deplete the batteries faster than the charging system can replenish.
Moving on..... During hot weather when the batteries and everything else are hot then physics says that it takes more amperage to crank the engine due to the increase in resistance. Its when the weather is nice and tepid that everything works right and the engine starts easy.
But all that said, even with those variables involved, if the batteries are fine, connections are good and no corrosion, the starter is good, the grid heaters are working as they should, there are no fuel leaks and fuel pressure is not too high during engine cranking, your truck should start normal when the weather is both cold and hot.
11-10-2015, 01:12 PM
#162
Registered User
Thread Starter
Try this link. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems It should work for you as it works for me.
And yes, weak starters and/or "starting" issues arise under two conditions.....
Cold weather which sucks the power out of the batteries just from being cold (thus the term CCA) and then adding the 95 amps / 1140 watts per cable required by the grid heaters, will cause a weak electrical system and/or a weak starter to become apparent. Not to get off track but this is why short frequent trips during cold weather are not advised in a truck like these since the repeated grid heaters cycling will deplete the batteries faster than the charging system can replenish.
Moving on..... During hot weather when the batteries and everything else are hot then physics says that it takes more amperage to crank the engine due to the increase in resistance. Its when the weather is nice and tepid that everything works right and the engine starts easy.
But all that said, even with those variables involved, if the batteries are fine, connections are good and no corrosion, the starter is good, the grid heaters are working as they should, there are no fuel leaks and fuel pressure is not too high during engine cranking, your truck should start normal when the weather is both cold and hot.
And yes, weak starters and/or "starting" issues arise under two conditions.....
Cold weather which sucks the power out of the batteries just from being cold (thus the term CCA) and then adding the 95 amps / 1140 watts per cable required by the grid heaters, will cause a weak electrical system and/or a weak starter to become apparent. Not to get off track but this is why short frequent trips during cold weather are not advised in a truck like these since the repeated grid heaters cycling will deplete the batteries faster than the charging system can replenish.
Moving on..... During hot weather when the batteries and everything else are hot then physics says that it takes more amperage to crank the engine due to the increase in resistance. Its when the weather is nice and tepid that everything works right and the engine starts easy.
But all that said, even with those variables involved, if the batteries are fine, connections are good and no corrosion, the starter is good, the grid heaters are working as they should, there are no fuel leaks and fuel pressure is not too high during engine cranking, your truck should start normal when the weather is both cold and hot.
Aside from that I am thinking that the most logical course of action would be to remove the batteries and starter and test them since the starter is aftermarket. At this point I'm betting it will either be the fuel pressure, or more likely based on what you said, the starter is weak. It seems like the most likely probable cause at this point. Does that sound like a good place to start?
11-10-2015, 01:14 PM
#164
Registered User
Thread Starter
If that link still doesnt work then copy and paste this into your address bar. Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems