Getting ready to do the front brakes on my 2001 CTD. I have done a search here for basic info but wanted to check to see if there is any thing I should be wary of or any tricks that might help me. I have done this sort of thing on GM products but not on Dodges.

Thanks!

 

No real difference on a Dodge, just be sure to clean and lube the pins the pads are on. I use a thin coat of hi temp grease like wheel bearing grease.

 

So I am doing my brakes next weekend and wondered if I should do the backs or just the fronts? mine is disk brakes front n back and cant find a brake pad for the rears? do they get used as hard as the fronts?

 

My fronts wore out much faster then the rears, due to the heavy stop and go traffic I that I was in coming home from work. The front has the most weight over it and does most of the stopping. I would go from 70MPH down to 20MPH back to 70MPH down to 0MPH and so on, you get the picture
I use the Autozone pads, front and rear.
If your rotors are worn, don't even think about going to the dealer. They wanted like $250 each (not installed). I got 'em for $66 a piece at tirerack.com. On my '02, rotor removal/replacement is a snap, they just come right off the hubs. (If you are already doing the pads, the only two extra bolts you have to remove are the caliper bracket bolts).
Either way, you will want a Torx bit (can't remember the size right now) to get the caliper pin out. It can be removed with hex head, but you run the risk of stripping the head out, ask me how I know this

~Rob

 

So I am finally doing my front brakes tomorrow. Since I started this thread the brakes on my run around car (93 Pontiac Bonneville) had to be done, so that was a good warm up for the real job.

Anyhow, I see mention that rather than a hex head, the Caliper Bolt on the Dodge is a Torx head. Is this correct and, if so, does anyone have an idea of what size it is and is this something I can pick up at any tool or parts store. I hope this is something that I can snap on a ratchet.?.?

Thanks in advance.

 

T-45 is the torx size

~Rob

 

A word to the wise, If you have 4 wheel anti-lock , don't push the brake fluid back into the system. Crack the bleeder and let the excess fluid push out not back thru the proportioning valve. .Trust me you don't want to replace it as it is very expensive and brake fluid is cheap.
I too am about to do this chore, just ordered the "Hawk pads from Genos last night". Did them last at 82k, just about 142k now.

 

So are you saying to crack the bleeder valve while pushing the caliper back with a C-clamp? Then, at completion, add more Dot 3?

 

DOT 3 or the newer DOT 5.1 That is better than 3, and is "Backward compatible with DOT 3 or 4.

 

I believe dot 5 is NOT compatiable with 3 and 4, as dot 5 is silicone and it looks like its full of little bubbles, if it is this type it will destroy all seals/rubber, it can only be used in systems that call for it

 

DOT 5 is silicone, DOT 5.1 is not. Two different animals. I have had a difficult time finding DOT 5.1 here. DOT 5.1 is backward compatible with 3 and 4.

 

Does anyone have any feedback regarding the cracking the bleeder valve while pushing the caliper?

 

I've always pulled the cap off the fluid fill port and pushed the pistons back with a caliper, however, I believe I have been lucky not to damage anything. 2 things to worry about: proportioning valve as stated above and the piston seals. When I push the piston in, I end up pushing it in farther than it would normally travel which I have been told is not a good thing to do (by member "infidel", whose opinion is very respected here).
Next time, I will do it the right way (crack the bleeders).

~Rob

 

Thanks for the insight! I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

Here is a link to a good website that describes the different types of brake fluids (3,4,5,5.1):
Click Here

~Rob