Edge Jammer Injectors
Edge Jammer Injectors
I searched the forum but i couldn't find any "how to's" for replacing the nozzles on my 2001. Also, when the VP44 went out a year ago, i had them put a OEM style electric pump in the tank but i was wondering if changing the nozzles was going to use too much fuel for that LP. With the Edge on the extreme setting at WOT the fuel pressure drops to about 7 psi. With the nozzles i want to go as big as i can without having to do any major mods. Any suggestions on what size nozzles i should go with?
Here are some not so good instructions for getting the injectors themselves in and out.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...51-1075943.pdf
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...51-1075943.pdf
I start with a warm engine but not hot.
1.Clean engine, valve cover
2.Loosen bolts that hold intake and dipstick to intake off and move intake and grid heater out of the way carefully not getting dirt into the engine.
3.Remove the 4 or 5 small bolts that hold fuel lines onto the block.
4.Loosen all 6 injector lines from the block.
5.VERY IMPORTANT, The lines you just removed from the block were connected to tubes that you need to get a small flat screwdriver and gently pop out of the block an inch or so just to clear the injector bodies. You will know when they move as they are held in by o-rings.
6.Remove all valve cover bolts except the back one as it will not come out.
7.Place cardboard or some kind of cover inbetween the valve cover and the cowl so none of the insulation falls into the engine.
8.Carefully remove valve cover by lifting the last valve cover bolt and cover to the passenger side of the engine.
9.Remove the 8 or 10mm left side keeper bolts. There will be 12 in all but just remove 6 and then slide the keepers out from under the others.
10.Now you can see your injectors, screw one of your valve cover bolts into your injector. I lay a screwdriver across the valve train and use it as a prying point with some plyers and it pops right out.
11.Make sure your copper washers come out with each injector.
12.Make sure to keep the injectors clean, I usually have a small bucket of fresh diesel to drop them into.
13.Pull all the copper washers off but dont loose them because you may have to reuse them unless you have new ones.
14.I put a injector keeper upside down in a vice and with one hand push down and hold tight and use a deep socket 21 or 22mm, I cant remember and 3/4 drive ratchet to loosen the nozzle. Becareful not to let the needle fall out of the nozzle when they seperate from the body.
15.After you have done all six turn your keeper around in the vise so you can tighten the new nozzles against it.
16.Tighten nozzles down to 28-32 ft pounds carefully not touching the tips. I tightened mine to 32 but have read 28 also.
17.I clean mine off with diesel again and then put some heavy grease on the o-rings. Also grease the base of the nozzles so the copper washers will stick to the new nozzles.
18.Screw a valve cover bolt back into the injectors, line the injectors up so the hole that the tube goes into is on the driver side and carefully pop them back into place. I just hit them with the palm of my hand.
19.Before you tighten the injector keepers down its best to push the tubes back into the side of the block and make sure they fit back inside the injectors or every thing is not gonna line up right.
20.Screw the lines back onto the block and just snug them up.
21.Now you can tighten up the keepers, I think its like 18 ft pounds but I may be wrong.
22.Reinstall the valve cover, tighten up the injector lines and put the little bolts that hold the lines to the block back in place.
23.Put the intake and grid heater back in place and tighten up the dip stick.
24.Now bump the starter 2 or 3 times to build some fuel pressure.
25.Loosen the #1 injector line at the block and turn the truck over for no more than 30 seconds at a time. Get out and check if fuel is coming out of #1lline.
26.It will take a little bit of throttle and time to get it to fire up. When it does start it will run rough for a few minutes but give it fuel and it will staighten up.
27.Button everything up good and check for leaks. If there is no leaks then take it for a test drive. I would check the oil after a few hundred miles to make sure your not getting fuel in the oil. You should have a injector shop "pop test" them before you put the injectors back into the truck but I had no trouble with them running bad so I didnt have them checked. I hope I covered everthing but it has been a few months since I have done this. If I missed anything I hope someone will chime in and correct me.
1.Clean engine, valve cover
2.Loosen bolts that hold intake and dipstick to intake off and move intake and grid heater out of the way carefully not getting dirt into the engine.
3.Remove the 4 or 5 small bolts that hold fuel lines onto the block.
4.Loosen all 6 injector lines from the block.
5.VERY IMPORTANT, The lines you just removed from the block were connected to tubes that you need to get a small flat screwdriver and gently pop out of the block an inch or so just to clear the injector bodies. You will know when they move as they are held in by o-rings.
6.Remove all valve cover bolts except the back one as it will not come out.
7.Place cardboard or some kind of cover inbetween the valve cover and the cowl so none of the insulation falls into the engine.
8.Carefully remove valve cover by lifting the last valve cover bolt and cover to the passenger side of the engine.
9.Remove the 8 or 10mm left side keeper bolts. There will be 12 in all but just remove 6 and then slide the keepers out from under the others.
10.Now you can see your injectors, screw one of your valve cover bolts into your injector. I lay a screwdriver across the valve train and use it as a prying point with some plyers and it pops right out.
11.Make sure your copper washers come out with each injector.
12.Make sure to keep the injectors clean, I usually have a small bucket of fresh diesel to drop them into.
13.Pull all the copper washers off but dont loose them because you may have to reuse them unless you have new ones.
14.I put a injector keeper upside down in a vice and with one hand push down and hold tight and use a deep socket 21 or 22mm, I cant remember and 3/4 drive ratchet to loosen the nozzle. Becareful not to let the needle fall out of the nozzle when they seperate from the body.
15.After you have done all six turn your keeper around in the vise so you can tighten the new nozzles against it.
16.Tighten nozzles down to 28-32 ft pounds carefully not touching the tips. I tightened mine to 32 but have read 28 also.
17.I clean mine off with diesel again and then put some heavy grease on the o-rings. Also grease the base of the nozzles so the copper washers will stick to the new nozzles.
18.Screw a valve cover bolt back into the injectors, line the injectors up so the hole that the tube goes into is on the driver side and carefully pop them back into place. I just hit them with the palm of my hand.
19.Before you tighten the injector keepers down its best to push the tubes back into the side of the block and make sure they fit back inside the injectors or every thing is not gonna line up right.
20.Screw the lines back onto the block and just snug them up.
21.Now you can tighten up the keepers, I think its like 18 ft pounds but I may be wrong.
22.Reinstall the valve cover, tighten up the injector lines and put the little bolts that hold the lines to the block back in place.
23.Put the intake and grid heater back in place and tighten up the dip stick.
24.Now bump the starter 2 or 3 times to build some fuel pressure.
25.Loosen the #1 injector line at the block and turn the truck over for no more than 30 seconds at a time. Get out and check if fuel is coming out of #1lline.
26.It will take a little bit of throttle and time to get it to fire up. When it does start it will run rough for a few minutes but give it fuel and it will staighten up.
27.Button everything up good and check for leaks. If there is no leaks then take it for a test drive. I would check the oil after a few hundred miles to make sure your not getting fuel in the oil. You should have a injector shop "pop test" them before you put the injectors back into the truck but I had no trouble with them running bad so I didnt have them checked. I hope I covered everthing but it has been a few months since I have done this. If I missed anything I hope someone will chime in and correct me.
Yeah i have the 150's on a hy35 turbo. I can peg a EGT from deal stop to a 80mph run. I have the edge juice with attitude and i can set my de-fueling around 1300 or 1500 and just go. I love the 150's but i wouldn't mind a bigger/cleaner injector with a larger turbo. But for what i do with the truck it suits me just fine.
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with my jammer 4s and jammer bb turbo its easy well not easy but it will get to 1300 but its hard to push past that at wot but for some reason going 40 up a hill i can peg the egt's. thats at sea level when i took my truck to 10100ft it was a usless pile!!! smoked crazy and egt's were above 900 cruising i couldnt get on the throttle due to too much smoke and my fear of the cars behind me crashing due to visibilaty issues! but the hottest i have seen on my stock charger injectors and edge was 1600 and i let off and i think my egts got maxed before my boost did! lol


