diference in transmitions
hello all i am searching for a new truck.... i have had 2 1500 dodge ram trucks both were 4wd auto one was a 360 and the other was the 318... i am now looking at a 2000 slt diesel... 4wd short bed... my question is is there a diference in the transmitions from the 1500 to the 2500... i have have been told that they are both the 47re but wanted to hear what you all think... thank for your time.... mark
Some info here. COmparing the torque figures will do for starters.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/Ramspecs.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/Ramspecs.htm
My buddy & I rebuilt the tranny in my 1994 CTD, following the Chrylser manual. There are many minor differences between the trannys for the gas and Diesel engines, but they're basically the same. The manual explains things at the appropiate sections.
For anyone contemplating this, it really isn't Rocket Science, but you do have to pay attention to what you're doing and things need to be kept clean. I also installed a shift kit and that had me scared for a while. All those little springs and valve spools look pretty much the same, and I was worried about getting things mixed up. Solved that potential problem by getting a couple of muffin tins with 12 compartments/each. As I removed a part or 2, "1-2 shift valve & spring", I'd write that on a business card and put the part(s) and card in a compartment. It all went back together and worked fine for over 60,000 miles now. The only thing that caused problems was the TCC slipped under load, and that was probably due to the "remanufactured" converter. The term "remanufactured" means "like new", but this one had a slightly turned-down nose sleeve. As the pump bushing looked and measured fine, I didn't change it, and that probably caused excess leakage, causing the TCC to slip while in lockup. The parts source sent me a new converter AND a new bushing, and insisted that I replace it. When I did so, the pump body would not slip onto the original (unturned) converter nose, but did fit "just right" on the "remanufactured" one.
Do not attempt this sort of thing if you aren't willing to follow instructions!
It also helped that I have a fairly complete machine shop with a largish hydraulic press, needed to make the tool and use it to compress the OD clutch spring. IIRC, it requires 800# pressure to compress the spring to disassemble the thing.
For anyone contemplating this, it really isn't Rocket Science, but you do have to pay attention to what you're doing and things need to be kept clean. I also installed a shift kit and that had me scared for a while. All those little springs and valve spools look pretty much the same, and I was worried about getting things mixed up. Solved that potential problem by getting a couple of muffin tins with 12 compartments/each. As I removed a part or 2, "1-2 shift valve & spring", I'd write that on a business card and put the part(s) and card in a compartment. It all went back together and worked fine for over 60,000 miles now. The only thing that caused problems was the TCC slipped under load, and that was probably due to the "remanufactured" converter. The term "remanufactured" means "like new", but this one had a slightly turned-down nose sleeve. As the pump bushing looked and measured fine, I didn't change it, and that probably caused excess leakage, causing the TCC to slip while in lockup. The parts source sent me a new converter AND a new bushing, and insisted that I replace it. When I did so, the pump body would not slip onto the original (unturned) converter nose, but did fit "just right" on the "remanufactured" one.
Do not attempt this sort of thing if you aren't willing to follow instructions!
It also helped that I have a fairly complete machine shop with a largish hydraulic press, needed to make the tool and use it to compress the OD clutch spring. IIRC, it requires 800# pressure to compress the spring to disassemble the thing.
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