I have gone thru 2 VP44's, I installed my last one about 18 months ago.

This morning I had a few birps of dead pedal, followed by dead pedal for about 10 seconds, I toggled the ignition switch which has always reset the problem in the past. But didn't this time...it cleared it self, and been running fine since.

What's up?

I checked engine codes and remembered I haven't cleared the computer since my last replacement VP44. Are the codes in chronological order?

I had my water in fuel light came on 2 weeks ago, and I drained the filter several times.

PCU
P1693

ECU
P0216 (code of Death)
P0177 (water in fuel)
P0234 (turbo boost limit)

How do I clear the codes?

 

As I tried to pull away from my parking space today, I had a dead pedal, toggled the ignition and all was great.

Later I pulled away from my space and the "WATER IN FUEL" light came on.

I bled the filter assy....a lot. Went to Diesel shop here in Tallahassee who thought it might be the TPS, I'll put that in tonight.

Anybody got any ideas?

 

Where are you getting these VP's? And what are your fuel pressures?

 

The VP's are from Peninsula, My problems started since I left for work this morning, my fuel pressure gauge is at home, I'll check tonight.

I put a Raptor kit on the truck a few years back, and yes pulled the screen out of the inlet side.

 

I am running 12 psi

Pumps are Pensacola Diesel

 

I had similar situation 2 months ago. Dead pedal that would clear up on own then eventually total dead pedal. Turned out to be map sensor.

 

Whats a MAP sensor?

 

Manifold absolute presure
edit**

Heres a page I found on google to show you.

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1rwn...e-cummins.html

 

Is there a code if it fails?
Are they expensive, how is access to change it

 

My suggestion would be to check the APPS sensor. The MAP sensor is unlikely to affect the throttle position but rather throw the truck into limp mode from an overboost. Not saying its not possible but just unlikely. Dead pedal is a common problem on older worn out VP's whereby the computer goes through multiple heat cycles throughout its service and the lead free solder begins to deteriorate and loose solid connections. That said, any re-manufactured VP these days better be coming with a brand new computer otherwise your VP source is lousy. Reselling VP's with old working computers is a big no no because those computers have a unknown amount of heat cycles on them.

But, the APPS is known for stuff like you describe too. Dont bother messing with it other than trying to reset it. This is easily done by completely disconnecting BOTH batteries from the truck and then turning the key to ON for about a half and hour so the electrical system fully purges. Then turn the key OFF and reconnect the batteries. Turn the key to ON again and fairly slowly depress the throttle all the way to the floor and back up again and then turn the key OFF. The APPS is now reset. If it continues to give trouble then it just may need to be replaced. You can go stock which are very expensive or a Timbo APPS which are just as good or better and much cheaper.

I will just throw it in there that 12 psi is too low for fuel pressure. Not horrible but still too low. Minimum 14-16 psi at all times has been the general consensus for years.

 

Is dead pedal the same thing as going down the road and loose all power then it would pick back up?

 

The best way to describe what happens during the dead pedal is "nothing" happens. Throttle doesn't cut out nor change but rather does nothing for what seems like minutes, even though its only seconds. You try to accelerate and its like the drive by wire is disconnected. So no, its not a loss of power.

 

The mechanic used a spare MAP he had to test which confirmed the problem was indeed the MAP sensor. The truck was 100% dead pedal by this time and Map was the cause. Was $600 to diagnose and replace.

edit**
Didn't check or ask about codes. Sometimes its better to give the mechanic his pound of flesh for diagnosing rather than mess with it yourself.

 

I am going to make an educated guess, that my VP-44 has gone south again. My original lasted 92,000, The first replacement from Peninsula lasted just over 100,000.
My third VP-44 I am very disappointed in.A whopping 25,000 in 20 months!
I'll be calling Peninsula in the morning to see if they will give me a break on a replacement.
If not who makes a reasonable price VP-44? Meaning under $1000.

 

Mmmmm..... I'm not sure I agree with that logic. Dont get me wrong either as I'm glad you're back on the road but unfortunately its all too common for people to dish out huge amounts of money for completely minor repairs. Mechanics are not stupid and are fully aware that most people feel what you just said. They're so happy to have their vehicle fixed that the high cost is worth it. That gives the less than honest way too much room for price gouging. Example..... There should have been a code to determine that the MAP was giving problems. Fairly unlikely that it wouldnt. So if it did then the time frame for diagnostics would have been how long it takes to connect a OBDII, read the code, replace the MAP and drive to confirm. The MAP generally runs around $150 at most and the shop minimum was probably around $80. Give him another hour to drive it and where's the extra $300 come in? If he wasnt using the advantages of the OBD to inform him that the MAP was an issue then all he was doing was crap shooting with your money as he tossed parts at it until it stopped doing whatever it was doing. Thats never cheap and usually has someone returning to the mechanic in a short while as the issue seemingly hadn't been fixed. I'm not saying this is your case but just stating the common obvious.

And by the way, are you still having the hard start problem or was this what the mechanic fixed?

Why do you think this? Generally the remanufactured VP's are much more resistant to fuel pressure issues and heat so unless you just got a garbage replacement unit I'm guessing you have something else causing your problem. No need to toss another $1500 at it only to find out you were wrong. Understand that these VP trucks are completely electronically controlled. That means that they're very sensitive to all electrical signals and sensors. The batteries MUST be in perfect condition and the same size and the same age. All connections and grounds must be good and all electronic devices/sensors must be functioning right. Any of the said not right and it will cause a problem. Even poor condition batteries can cause phantom issues having you trying to fix something not even broken. Quality code readers are great tools in order to look deep into the ECM/FPCM and see if there's any undiscovered codes. Other than that, there generally is normal indications of the issues but it takes someone being diligent and observant to how and when the issues takes place because generally nothings random and will follow a pattern.