This is craziness...
02-23-2017, 11:17 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
This is craziness...
2001 ram 3500 4x2... has issues with gauge lights coming on, starting issues occasionally, but I can deal with that. Last week relay starts clicking on and off in fuse box on side of dash. I notice then that the oil pressure gauge starts working on and off. When the oil pressure gauge is NOT working, everything is fine. Now I know this can't be a coincidence because I tried it endless times... when the oil pressure gauge is on and you step on the brakes at **** near any speed, your locked up skidding? Oil pressure light off and it's all good.
Is this thing a wiring nightmare or what? A big old flatbed doing 60 mph doesn't handle very well sideways..
Is this thing a wiring nightmare or what? A big old flatbed doing 60 mph doesn't handle very well sideways..
02-23-2017, 11:22 PM
#2
Registered User
The Central Timer Module I believe controls all dash lighting, gauges, and chimes. The CTM is controlled by the PCM. Yours may be giving you fits.
First I'd check the cluster by holding the tripometer button down and turning the key to ON. Wait for the odometer to let you know its doing a diagnostic check to make sure all the gauges are working. If they are then its not the gauge cluster.
Then I'd make sure the batteries are in perfect shape, there's no corrosion build up on cables, batteries, and all major electrical connections, and grounds as well.
If everything checks out then you may want to research the PCM being a possible.
First I'd check the cluster by holding the tripometer button down and turning the key to ON. Wait for the odometer to let you know its doing a diagnostic check to make sure all the gauges are working. If they are then its not the gauge cluster.
Then I'd make sure the batteries are in perfect shape, there's no corrosion build up on cables, batteries, and all major electrical connections, and grounds as well.
If everything checks out then you may want to research the PCM being a possible.
02-24-2017, 07:35 AM
#3
Administrator
I agree with KATOOM, the Instrument Cluster Test should help figure which way to look next.
Originally Posted by Instrument Cluster Test
Insert the key into the ignition and rotate it one click forward to the OFF position. Push and hold the odometer reset button and then turn the key one click forward to the ON position while continuing to hold the reset button in. This will start the test:
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
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