Found a 2001 auto 2WD with 80k, have done research on the board, you guys know your stuff, would like confirmation on what costs to be expected to fix common bugs for 2001 trucks.

1)53 Block issue
2)Front-end issue
3)lift pump

Should I expect any other issues, what type of inspection to perform on truck to make sure block has not been damaged?

 

The block issue is fairly common in this era truck. Some have been repaired and held, others failed after repair and many have never failed. Its just that no one 53 block fails at the same time so nobody really can put a lifespan on them.

It is claimed that the wrong coolant can cause cavitation in the weak area and may shorten the life of a 53 so some run the Evan's non water stuff that supposedly doesn't cavitate.

replacing a cracked 53 block, which is what I would do could cost you upwards of $5000, and that is probably a low estimate.

The front end problems can be pretty much alleviated by going to a third gen set up, or repairing with aftermarket parts including trac bar, tie rod ends, ball joints, shocks, DSS, borgensen shaft and will run around $2-2500.

As far as a lift pump goes there are many aftermarket versions available or you can relocate a stocker style pump nearer the fuel tank. There are kits for this too and can be done for less than the cost of a FASS or Airdog, which is around $600

As I just noticed you are looking at a 2WD, disregard my paragraph on the front ends as that concerns a 4X4.

Sounds like a nice low miler '01! Good luck!

 

After 3 lift pump failures on my 01, I relocated the stock pump to the frame, back by the fuel tank. After doing this, the fourth pump lasted longer than the other three combined. When the VP44 went out at 198k miles, we traded the truck in. We had already been discussing trading it for a dually 4x4 before the VP went out. I would recommend pump relocation, and fuel pressure gauge at minimum.


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So a 2wd will not have the "death wobble" issues?

With all the estimated costs or associated risks, I am seeing why these trucks are so cheap!

How do I need to go about inspecting the block for issues?

 

On the side of the engine block is a large casting number, that is what you're looking for. I don't remember which side, or more specifically where, this number is located.


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53 stamped on forward lower portion, driver's side of block just above oil pan bolt line. Crawl under in front of tire and look up to corner of block, push wire loom out of way, usually up and it is pretty easy to see.

If no 53 there are other smaller casting numbers and symbols in same general area.

These trucks are "cheap" because they are approaching 10+ years old and usually have 200+ thousand miles on them and have been used hard, which is what they were designed for.

Try using a half ton gasser like that!!

If you find a decent one, the fuel system fix isn't a big issue. Many are still going strong and are on the original vp. You will just hear about the gripes on these forums because it's where people go for help if something goes wrong.

You can get death wobble in anything with two steer tires, its a lot less common in 2wd cause there isn't the extension of components as in the 4wd which allows more leverage to get things a shakin. It is actually caused by the tires being able to toe out and pull against each other and start oscillating left to right, causing expedited wear on the parts that are designed to keep them flying right.

You have made a good choice for a truck, just be patient and find a good one that was cared for.

 

Most of the info above is all I have found necessary since owning my 01. I would advocate strongly the lift pump relocate ($100) and a fuel pressure gauge ($100) as first things. It seems to me that keeping an eye on this will go a long way in minimizing the likelyhood of a VP failure.

I discovered that the OD unit in the auto trans has a c clip that has about a 150k mile life, your truck appears to be only halfway there but a fluid and filer change in the trans would be on my list as well as all other fluids.

I also discovered that 'lifetime warranty' brake pads have a much short 'lifetime' than these trucks, especially here in the mountains where I live.

Good luck!

 

Ive got a 53 block in a 2000 truck thats been driven hard enough the cab is cracking (bought it that way), so I wouldnt write off all 53's. Ive heard if the block is smoother on the passenger side, below the exhaust manifold, that's typically a good block. The issue was some being thin in that area.

If it doesnt have it, I would put an airdog or FASS pump on, and fuel pressure gauge. Longer life for VP, more consistant fuel pressure, and some mileage improvements are reported as well. Easier filter changes, and much longer fuel filter intervals as well.

Front end, on 2wd I dont know, check for loose ball joints and steering rod ends. I kind of figure all these truck the front end is either falling out, or on its way to falling out. Just replace, and be good for another 50-150k depending on use. FWIW, Ive got over 100k on used ball joints in a 98 3500 4wd, and theyre still tight.