Well it is that time of the year again, and I know there are a million threads about cold starts but I don't know what to do. The temperatures are around 0 here and I live on a college campus (hence no access to outlet so I can plug in the block heater). When I go to start my truck if its around 20 degrees I have juice in the batteries to be able to crank on it for a couple of minutes to get it to start. Shakes and sputters for a very long time blowing out white and blue smoke that covers the entire parking lot. Once It gets warmed up of course it is fine. The problem I have now is that the temperatures have gotten even colder and I crank for awhile and it sputters and blows smoke but wont turn over and the batteries eventually lose there juice and then I am SOL. Truck has about 135,000 miles on it. Batteries are new and cables are tight on the terminals. All accessories are unplugged, radio off, heater off, to try and conserve some energy at startup. I cycle the wait to start (grid heaters) 3-5 times but it doesn't seem like it makes any difference at all. Any suggestions would be great because once dead it sure is difficult to get started.

 

Are you waiting for the 'Wait to Start' light to go off before cranking?

 

I had a similar problem. After the wait to start would go out, I would almost kill the batteries trying to start it. Problem was the connections to the grid was corroded and wasn't working. I'd check the grid heater connections first.

Good Luck!

 

To answer your question, yes I do wait until the the wait to start light goes off. Since the grid heaters heat the fuel, did you experience a lot of white-bluish smoke? I know the grid heaters continue to cycle after the truck is started and I wonder if they are not working at all since the truck continues to blow a lot of white smoke until everything warms up.

 

The grid heaters are in the intake manifold. They do not warm the fuel, they warm the air going into the motor. Check your element and make sure it is working. You should feel heat when touching the manifold at the base of heater.

 

even if only one is working, it should start ok... check for codes. p0380 or p0382 are the grid heater circuits A and B. if you are getting one or both you need this. it's below the drivers side battery

 

My '92 'ol Rastus did that once...hadda load of water in the fuel and never did that again after changing where I bought fuel.
It kinda looks like possibly a timing issue. Is the Check Engine light on?
What's your lift pump fuel pressure?

 

besides ensuring the grids are working, you can switch the engine oil to synthetic, that will help the engine turn over faster and longer, also use a good fuel additive...I perfer Amsoil products, their cold flow and diesel concetrate seem to work well. Have you pulled codes yet? it is possible that your VP is bad and the cold temps are amplifying the hard start issue

ideally you need to plug the truck in..I realise you cant

 

After making sure that your grid heaters are really heating (& not just the relays cycling) I agree with the above.

A synthetic will help it turn over better & circulate the oil much faster.
Probably wouldn't hurt too if you started running some fuel additive that will help clean the injectors. Don't expect any additive to fix the issue overnight.

A cetane boost may help too... the fuel will light much easier.

 

I am guessing that one of your preheater relays has failed, so only one of the two grids is operating. Use a test light to test each of the two power terminals on the grid assembly. Both should be powered when the "wait" light is on.

 

my truck started at 20 below with b circuit out!!!(p0382}
when i get ambition i'll put the new relay assy on

 

its been a while since I tested mine but they alternated, it would cycle one, then that went off and the other cycled on...

 

my batteries were dying too but i replaced one with a CAT battery(since i work there) about two weeks ago and havent had a problem with the batteries since. the other battery is a WELL used red top optima.

it was about -4 today and the truck puffed and puffed like a steam boat but after a few minutes it was fine.

by the way, i too have no where to plug into. i hope my truck will start in ND haha

 

Yep, when you first turn the key on, before the truck starts, they will both come on together, (PREheat cycle). Then after the truck starts, they will alternate like you describe, (POSTheat cycle) when the PCM sees a speed of under 18 MPH. Over 18 MPH they will not come on at all.

 

I thought i had the right batteries in my truck but they werent! Look at what group they are, these trucks use alot of amps to roll them over.. you might want to get the repair kit for the start and replace the brushes in it.. i had to do mine at 140k.. what a differance.. in the way it starts! just my .02
Capn