I take the two bolts out of the filter housing and it drops down for more room as well as the bolt on the dipstick tube on the air intake and carefully bend it off to the side. Get a good light, lay a blanket on the core support and over the engine for something soft to lay on. You will lay on top of the motor. You only need a 17mm wrench, pliers, and either a 10mm or 7/16 socket and ratchet. 20 minutes and your done.

 

So do I need to drain the filter housing first?

Should I use teflon tape on the fuel line threads or is that not necessary?

It sounds like a pretty easy job and if it takes me a hour I will be pleased

Well I just found the tech artical on how to change the lift pump on this site so that should tell me everything I need to know.

I just read the tech artical and it is saying for a 2000 model year I would assume my 2001 would be the same....yes?

 

So do I need to drain the filter housing first? [ No. But you could esp. if your also changing the filter.]

Should I use teflon tape on the fuel line threads or is that not necessary? [No, teflon. You have sealing washers which need no sealants.]

It sounds like a pretty easy job and if it takes me a hour I will be pleased

Well I just found the tech artical on how to change the lift pump on this site so that should tell me everything I need to know.

I just read the tech artical and it is saying for a 2000 model year I would assume my 2001 would be the same....yes? [It will be close to the same]

 

Thanks again, I will let you know how I did on Monday.

 

Well got the job done on Saturday....took me about 2 hours to complete but you know the drill.... losen a nut have a sip of beer and on and on

Really the only issue I had was unable to loosen the three top nuts that hold the pump on the bracket. The studs from the original pump decided to unscrew out of the pump and not the nuts so I wound up using a small pair of vise-grips to hold the studs from the bottom and then back off the top nuts.

Other than that everything went pretty good.

Went ahead and changed the filter while I was at it even though I changed it 3K miles ago but oh well.

One question...is there a way to clear the code other than a scan tool?

Disconnect the battery's for a while?

 

Codes will go away on their own if you don't have a tool to clear them.

 

Great that will work.. i'll check for codes after I drive it for a week.
Truck sure seems quieter/smoother since the LP change so I would think that is a good thing

Thanks for everyones help