Haulin, that sure sucks. You must be getting tired of foolin around with that engine on every day off.

Dave

 

I just recently bought a 2001 HO 6 speed, with 60k miles, unfortunately without prior reading up on this website. I discovered I have this infamous 53 block. I had a few questions;
How do you diagnose a cracked block, are there any obvious signs and symptoms? Where does does the crack occur? How is Dodge on making good on the warranty?

Any advice and opinion is appreciated.

 

Surprised to see one in a 2001, but.... Your first sign of a cracked block will be loss of coolant. As the coolant gets lower the average temperature seems to stay a little higher and the overflow bottle will be empty.

The crack occurs on the passenger side, towards the rear of the engine behind the turbo. From the bottonm of the head as you look down you will find where the block narrows towards the centerline about 3/4 of an inch. It has a distinct line there where below the line the block is depressed. It cracks in the depression. Usually six or eight inches long in a horozontal line. Some block have been known to crack on the other side also, I have never seen one.

If the engine should crack take it to any reputable dealer, they will fix it on warranty. If they give you any flack, go to another dealer, it is a well known problem.

 

I also wanted to add if you don't tow heavy or race the heck out of it, probably won't crack anyway.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm enjoying my new ride too much to worry about this crack business. I don't know what the previous owner did with his truck, but I get the impression it wasn't abused. I use it more for commuting, with the odd tow of 7000 lbs. The truck drove well to Florida and back with 5 Harleys in tow from Canada last month and no complaints.

Tonite I'm installing the Westach fuel pressure guage. Labour of like.

 

Is there a way to tell if you have the #53 block without actually getting under your truck? I am buying a 2001 5 spd from near St. Paul Minnesota and I live in Ohio. Going this weekend to make sure evertying is ok but dont want to waste my time

 

Joe some of us go through life smelling the roses, others like me get a pricker in the cheek and fall into the fertilizer There have been two of them in my truck, both cracked. I am happy for you that yours has done so well.

 

I bought my 1999 Dodge a few months back and mostly because of this site, I've looked for a few things. First, the lift pump was DEAD when I bought the truck, although the truck ran fine. Replaced that right away, thanks to this site, I knew to go to Napa and get the $180 pump.

A few days ago, I crawled under the truck to see what the casting number was, and sure enough it said a big "53" right on the side.

The truck has 78,000 miles on it and no sign of a cracked block. I'm not going to lose any sleep over my block cracking, but I wanted to know if people have had any luck repairing the cracked blocks.

There's a place here in my hometown called Lock'n'Stitch that specializes in repairing cracked engine blocks and heads. Generally, they use specialized pins and such for repairing cracked castings.

I hear a lot about people replacing the entire block, but has anybody had any success going to a casting repair place? If my block cracks, I'm sure going to see what the Lock'n'Stitch people say before I buy an entire engine.

NOTE: I'm not associated with Lock'n'Stitch in any way, other than I know some people that have taken their cracked blocks/heads to them and they've been able to fix them up.

 

I called Lock'n'Stitch today and spoke with one of the technicians about cracked Cummins blocks.

He said that he's seen a few of these, but not a whole lot and usually they can be 'stitched' back together fairly easily, without even having to remove the block. They drill a few holes and put in some stitching pins.

The big news here is that this isn't anything to lose any sleep over. First, it's pretty unlikely to happen at ALL and even if it does, a good metal stitching place can probably fix it.

People with cracked blocks might want to look for a good metal stitching shop in their area before they resort to replacing the entire engine.

NOTE: I'm not associated with Lock'n'Stitch or any other cast metal stitching shop. Just trying to get the info out there.

 

http://www.Stamey.nu/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

Nuff said.

Chris

 

If I had the block (which I'm about 99.999999999% sure I don't) and could get a new replacement from dodge free of charge, then I'd let them do it. Why risk a stitch breaking when you can get a brand new block WITH a warranty on it? Just my personal OPINION.

 

I have a '98.5 #53, and I lost compression in a cylinder before I cracked the block, (at 120,000 miles) I just ordered a replacement motor, and it's a #53 (with 50,000 miles). I'm going to tow, and race it.
I'm planning for 520RWHP, and I'm purchasing a 45' Gooseneck very soon, that weighs 6,500Lbs EMPTY, and will be towing it loaded around the country to events.
It's going to have a Cam, Head, Injectors, Turbo, etc. etc., and if it breaks,, I'll just patch it up.

Merrick

P.S. Haulin in Dixie,, You are not allowed to touch my truck, or mention it's name within 10' of it. (j/k)

 

got ya

 

BigBlue,

If you can get a free motor from DC, then of course that's better than stitching it up.

Likewise, if a motor with 350,000+ miles cracks, it's probably better to just replace the whole thing. It's probably just plain worn out at that point.

But if a block with between 120,000 miles and 300,000 miles cracks, there ARE places that can stitch them back together for WAY less than the price of a new engine. That's all I'm trying to say.

 

The link to that "53 block" info page was very useful, and is now in my favorites. I will be sure to look under any truck I buy to make sure its not the 53 block, but Im not exactly sure Id worry about it too much, if it happened to be a 53 block. Granted, Id rather not have to worry about it.
Scott