dodgediesel

RAM2PETE, you were right!!! Number 6 is scored... The boys here say that I might get away with honing #6 and replacing the piston with new rings. They think this would be a band aid and won't offer warranty with this fix. The other is to re-sleeve #6, repace the rings, bearing, piston, hone #1-5 and re-ring them. Pretty much a short block... The last choice is to remove the engine and replace with a short block. The band aid would cost $3300.00. The re-sleeve would cost $8000.00 and a short block replaced would cost $12,000.00. What would you guy's do in this situation???? I don't really want to get rid of my truck...

Ram2Pete

Well I would do the second option and when they do it have them put the steel pee tubes in (piston cooloing jets), I think it would also be a good idea to that the air sides of the CAC and rad cleaned along with the water and boost sides as well. And if you ever want to add more power this would also be a good time to add orings to the head and studs to the block. I had Piers to this when I lost my head gasket might do it as well sence its off and then it will be done and you wont have to worry about that anymore


I'm sorry to hear about the miss forturne there has been more cummins engines lost at races then the everyday driving I think only if Mr. Cummins had thought of what we would be doing to his engines when they designed them

dodgediesel

Not to sound like a EDIT, but what are cooling jets and where are they located??? Also what is the CAC that I should clean out? I want to know this, so when I talk to them, I know what I'm talking about. I think I should re-sleeve the engine because if damage happened to #6 piston, I'm sure another one might have damage also??? What do you think???

dodgediesel

By the way RAM2PETE, you sure have a sweet ride. Looks like she's pretty shiney under the hood!!!

jrs_dodge_diesel

CAC = Charge Air Cooler - aka the Intercooler

What you should clean is the backside of it (the engine side) especially if you still have the breather bottle in the original location. The fins get plugged full of oily gunk. Actually the radiator plugs up first, its the closest to the engine. The cooling order from the engine forward is radiator, intercooler, A/C condensor, and tranny air cooler (if you have an auto tranny).

The cooling jets are these little plastic (they are green I believe) mounted in the block underneath the pistons. They shoot oil onto the bottom of the pistons to keep them cool. Unfortunatly they are known to pop out and deprive that cylinder of the cooling oil stream. You usually won't know thay have popped out until the engine is worked hard and a piston gets burnt good. Some guys here have replaced their plastic nozzles with a set of steel nozzles.

gunracer1

well i was going to put my money on a scored #6, i have seen and heard of this too many times. i would suggest you just get a junkyard motor or one from ebay. if you can do your on work i would just hone the cylinder, and put in a new piston and rings.

HOHN

Hope that beating a D-max was worth it.

Maybe just an expensive lesson learned?

RustyJC

1300 degF pre-turbo EGT with a box (timing advance) and injectors and more boost (mass airflow) puts a lot more heat into the combustion chambers (including piston crowns) than 1300 degF EGT with a stock engine. Because of this, I generally limit my EGTs to 1150 degF or less on the long grades - I just got back from a trip to Sevierville, TN pulling the 5th wheel, so I had lots of practice at driving by the pyrometer.

Rusty

HOHN

As I've dissertated before, there's a lot more to piston temps than EGT...

Rusty's right on the money here! (as usual)

dodgediesel

HOHN, beating the duramax was great because he's pushing 100 more ponies and always bragging that Chev is the only way but boy that was a stupid move on my part!!!!! I now know not to push the limits or it will cost me big $$$. Live & Learn, right...

HOHN

I'll offer the advice given to me by a great man:

"It's not enough to win. True greatness is when you look good doing it."

Gotlift01

There is a 24V motor in the classifieds if you are lookin for one.......just saw it this morning.




~Nick

Mike Holmen

Dodgediesel, I'm looking for a spare engine. If you want I'll buy your old motor off you? I know where theres a couple good 24v and a few 12v available. I found a 01 in Saskatchewan for $6k that had 120k on it and was complete. I also found a 02 in Ontario without the turbo and injection pump for the same money. I also know where a 98 215hp 12v complete with 20k on it for 5k. The 12v can be tweaked to get around a safe 400rwhp. I still can't believe that your motor is toast. Drag racing isn't that hard on the motor unless your using tons of NOS. Sled pulling or dragging heavy objects up hills is way worse. I can peg my pyro (1500deg's F) in 5 seconds or around the 70mph mark. It still sounds good. About a month ago my motor sounded awful like like piston slapping. I found that two of my exhaust manifold where gone and the rest was lose. Most times guys drop valves into pistons when the valve stick open from all the heat. PM me if you want to sell the motor.

Mcmopar

Oh stop, we have all done it, my number might be up next time, or maybe yours will!!

mouseguy

How did they know that #6 was scored ?

Why does it cost so much to fix one scored cylinder ? What else is damaged ?

Why can't they pull the engine, bore #6 and put in an oversized piston ? I understand that the oversized pistons weigh the same as the regular sized pistons.

It shouldn't cost much to pull the engine, strip it, bore #6, put it back together and put it in. At least not in parts. How much is labor ?