Well I got an early start installing my FP gauge. Install was easy enough, bumped the starter a few times to get the air out of the lines, all's well. start the truck 11PSI, WOT to 3000rpm down to 6PSI. This isn't good so let's take it around the block. 0PSI WOT. Called the dealer and it's going in tomorrow

Bill.

 

Only lift pump available at the dealer is the in tank conversion so you'll be seeing 1-2 psi on WOT. That or you can settle on the old school pump if they still have one on the shelf.

 

Well I just finished the install on my Auto Meter gauge, next to the brake controller under the ash tray. Per dealers advice drive it and see what happens. Well now 12.5 idle 7-8 crusing and no less then 3.5 at WOT and that is FULL WOT, normal driving never below 6psi. What gives. The gauge is mounted maybe 4" below the isolator where before it was mounted about 6" above the isolator. I received the same numbers posted in this thread in either position of the gauge mounting. Is this worth the $100 for the dealer to test or just watch close, I know about the in tank pumps and the dealer flow test, I'll bet it will pass that. My only concern is I'm going to be in the boonies hunting next week

What about a new fuel filter, that was going in tomorrow.


Thanks.
Bill.

 

How long has it been since your last filter change?
The in tank pump is supposed to be a GOOD thing, I was wishing that my pump had waited to go out another few months so I could have got the in tank job under warranty. Wonder how long your #'s have been dragging down to less than 1 psi.?

 

I'm not sure the 1psi number was correct. I reblead the diesel to the isolator. When was the filter changed last I just bought the truck about 3 months ago. It's due for an oil change and filter so I was going to throw a fuel filter on as well. for all I know it's the stock filter with 56k on it.

 

Well, you wouldn't be the first guy with that kind of mileagle on the OE filter.
I wouldn't trust the readings until I got that new filter on anyway.

I'm too lame to even afford the gauges I know I NEED (for now). But, I have heard mixed reviews on isolators. I will be running fuel straight gauge on mine.

 

Thanks, will report in the AM with new number after the filter, It's Friday and beer night, no trucks, work or driving to get filters for me.

Bill.

 

Well the new fuel filter is in, I can not get the psi to drop any more than 4 at WOT. Idle around 12-13, cruse somewhere between 8-9psi. I called the dealer and talked with a mechanic and he was no real help with pressure numbers, he needs volume numbers, we all knew this but I though he might be able to help.

Now with talking to the mechanic he doesn't suspect the LP going south, I have a minor power loss but not bad. My fuel mpg we're back to normal with this tank and towing our 7000lb TT so maybe it was just a tank of bad gas???

I know everyone is going to say the LP is on it's way south but don't want to spend $100 to have it tested to pass the volume test, I've got money it will pass that test.

What are your opnions or thoughts. What about a boost leak, I do hear air sometimes, not the whistle of the turbo. Where should I check for a boost leak. Again I'm talking about a minor power loss, I used to be able to bark, not break the tires from a stop, now I can't but have good pull and turbo spool.

Bill.

 

Be on the safe side and go to Napa and buy one before you to go hunting then reurn it if you don't need it.

 

You can get a new pump for right around $130 shippping included. If you are worried about the hundred bucks for the test, just up it $30 and get the pump which WILL fail at some point.

 

In my eyes there is nothing wrong with the numbers you posted 2500.

 

Thanks everyone, I'm going to keep my eyes on this one and will report. Good advise to just buy a pump and have it with me or return it if I don't need it. There are no delers anywhere close to where we hunt so now it's time to search on the tools/parts required to replace the LP in the field.

Bill.

 

This is from the Tech section here for a 2000 is this the same for an 02?

Procedure for a 2000 Ram
Drain the filter housing and watch to keep diesel off starter. Disconnect power to pump, located on bottom.
To make the removal and installation easy take the 2 bolts(10mm) that hold the filter housing loose and moved the housing to the side, this makes it easier to get at the pump.
Then removed the 3 bolts(1/2) that hold pump to pump bracket,then removed one more bolt(10mm)that holds the supply line to the pump. With this being done you can move the pump around to finish removal easier.
Then remove the banjo bolt(11/16) that holds the supply line to the pump, be careful to get both washers.
On the opposite side of the pump coming from the filter housing is the last of the hoses, I opted to take the black hose off the pump, leaving the banjo bolt and fitting on pump.
Pull the old pump and clean all parts that will be reused(banjo bolts).
Attach banjo to the "out" side of pump with new washers and leave a little loose, Attach supply side banjo bolt to pump with new washers also, tighten up to specs.
Slide the new pump in and bolt all 3 nuts down tight, watch for clearance on "out" side against pump bracket.
Tighten down "out" side of pump to spec now.
Replace bolt that holds supply line to pump bracket and tighten.
Now you can attach power to the pump and clean up your mess, and yes you will have one .
Start it just like you would after filter install, might sputter for a second.

Cummins Lift Pump part #3990105
Price: $145.00
No special tools needed.

 

Where? I called NAPA and they want $200 for a Carter pump.

 

just another bit of info.

i had replaced my ff in the winter 2 years ago. after i set in the ff, i replaced the lid and bumped the key 3 times to run the lift pump. i heard the lp run each time. then i started it. it ran for less than a minute and died. it would not start after that. this is how i found dtr. i know a guy that works at detroit deisel and called him, he reffered me here and i found the info i needed to bleed the system.

i was told to loosen one or 2 of the injector lines and crank it over till it started. it runs real rough in that situation. then shut it down and tighten the lines. never had another problem. the last 2 times i replaced the ff all i had to do was bump the key for the fuel system.

i also read here about bad batteries causing a problem. it was reccomended to check the batteries with a meter.