You omitted last portion of my statement(as does keeping tank 1/2 full at least) which is a very important factor. How did you verify that they weren't mechanical failures, but an electrical failure as you stated? The electrical failures are usually caused by heat which can't be removed. Lubricity additive helps the mechanical portion of the pump.

If you have sufficient amount of fuel in tank, the more fuel can remove more heat better away from VP-44, which cools down pump better and the electronic portion on top of it better. Remember that most of the fuel circulating thru pump is returned to the tank and is not burned, it is done for a reason, for cooling the fuel system, and removing air. Lack of sufficient air flow also, and hot outside/underhood temps can cause electronic portion to not be able to remove the heat before being overloaded and damaged. Hope that clears it up.

 

....and they dropped like flies down here when it hit 126 for a week straight (including mine!). I would have to blame the electronics as they all had intermittant symptoms, dead pedal, loss of power, smoke. Seems the mech failures I remember the pumps died and that was the end of it. Some even sheared the key on the shaft. The most mileage I've seen on a VP was just short of 350K, and the truck looked to be rather poorly maintained. Go figure.

 

i know of four 2001 24valves my best friends is a 01 2500 with 120k on the clock and he tows for a living and has had zero problems very well maintained truck second is my bosses truck 01 3500 that gets the you know what ran out of it and it has 110k on the clock and its ok maitnece on it but not good third is my 01 2500 that i tow almost every other day with and i have 70k on the clock with zero problems very well maintained and fourth is my dads buddys 01 3500 that has had zero problems and your lucky if he remembers to even change the oil

 

....which leads me to believe it's more of "the luck of the draw". I have a customer with an 00 that just turned 300k. I've put three VP's on it. First was warranty, next were his. Ouch!

 

With those extreme outside temps, underhood temps would be extreme also, especially if stop and go city driving, with very little airflow to cool pump. As owners we can only minimize the impact of failures by following good preventive maintenance measures, like previously mentioned.

Repeated failures as you describe on electrical portion of pump, can be attributed to combination of a run of crappy electronics manufacturing(stock or aftermarket I'm sure we've all had these), excess heat, poor maintenance practices, and just plain dumb luck(good or bad) . Mechanical failures can be caused by low lubricating qualities of fuel, water in fuel(even minute amounts can seize plungers in bore), low fuel level which hinders cooling ability, excess heat, and of course just dumb luck again.

Doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason why they'll fail(like anything made) or when, even if you do all the things to reduce chances of failure. Although you could probably modify some type of electronic heat sink and/or cooling fan and adapt to fit pump like what's used on a computer. I for one am not that lucky to rely on the roll of the dice , maybe I make my own luck by doing things to prevent failures, but everything will fail eventually even if made perfect. That's my 2 cents worth.

 

OK, I can join this. My VP44 has 151,000 on it and so does the clutch. Dodge changed the lift pump at 95k. I have 56k on it now. Checked pressure on it a month ago. Still going strong. One crankshaft position sensor and one map sensor. Have an ABS light on with the brake light. Can't figure that one out yet. Got some rusty doors at the bottom as well.

I use a fuel additive and some clean motor oil or tranny fluid each time I fill up. 8oz per tank. 6oz of fuel treatment and 2oz of oil or tranny fluid.

Dave

 

The speed sensor on the rear axle is bad, causes your abs and brake lights to come on!

 

Thanks for the info. No one else has been able to tell me that. Will check it out.

Dave

 

Good to hear you've been using lubricity additives, even engine oil can be used, as can 2 stroke ashless oil. But I would stay away from using trans fluid as a lubricant in fuel. I know truckers used to use it all the time as an additive, but not safe anymore. As trans fluid is designed to RESIST being burnt, and not a good lubricant as such, to use in fine clearance fuel pumps(in the 10thousands of an inch clearance piston to bores). You would be much better off sticking to an oil(engine oil), 2 stroke ashless oil(designed to burn) better choice, and add a good fuel additive/antigel such as powerservice or Howes etc with 2 stroke oil.

As RickCJ stated, it is rear speed sensor on rear diff which needs replacing. When you do replace it, pry off connector gently, check for both(sensor and exciter ring) having made contact between each other(they should not be touching at all), but have slight air gap clearance. Clean exciter ring off, check for gap, finish up with di-electric grease on connector, clear code.