After 525,000 miles I am having to consider replacing my 97 12-valve. After reading some of the horror stories about the 24V injection pumps I am a bit nervous about upgrading but finding another 12V is going to involve at newest a 9 year old truck. Is there anything that can be done to the 24V's to avoid the injection pump problem?

 

Get rid of the factory lift pump set up and add a pusher pump set-up. There are tons of them out there, FASS, RASP, Airdog, Walbro, there is a relocation kit (Cant think of the name right now). I chose the FASS system.

 

There are a lot of people writing about injection pump failures, it seems like a lot cause people post when they go bad, someone isnt going to post a topic saying their pump is good, it just makes it seem like 70% of the pumps go bad, which is not the case at all, the best thing to do is get a FP gauge and keep track of pressures and the pump will last a long time most likely, my VP44 has been wounded since I bought my truck 2 years ago, it only had 3psi pressure at idle, replaced the lift pump, and so far, the pump is still hanging on, and hasnt showed any signs of going out in a long time, and I have a edge come and 80HP injectors, so it is getting like 200 extra horse and I havent had any problems with it, maybe I am lucky.

 

I went with the Glacier Diesel Walbro pump kit because my LP was dead when I bought my truck. Previous post are on the $$, gauge so you can monitor fuel pressure, secondary or replace LP before it cost you an injector pump$$, and fuel additive for better lubrication.....
A 24V is electronic, where the 12Vs were not, can cause some additional headachs.

 

anyone hear an echo....

1.) before even purchasing a truck, get the injection pump and lift pump "checked out"... meaning, check the fuel pressure and after driving the truck(don't baby it) have the computer scanned for codes. If everything checks out, then you can talk money with the seller.... other things to look for are signs of add-on boxes that would pierce the VP-44 wire.

2.) before completing the purchase buy a fuel pressure gauge and be prepared to install it ASAP after becoming the proud owner of a new-to-you truck.

3.) assuming the stock lift pump is fine, you can probably drive for many miles with no ill effects but as soon as you start noticing declining fuel pressure it's time to get proactive and replace the factory setup with something more reliable. Most of the players have been listed but I only have experience with FASS. I've run mine for over 2 years and know many others who have similar successful, and more numerous, miles.

Like others have said, the 24valve fuel system isn't perfect but rarely do you hear about success stories. Most of the time people only post when something goes wrong. Happy Hunting.

 

Like a lot has been said...

Get a set of gauges first thing... (Fuel Pressure, Boost, Pyro) CYA...

If the fuel pressure falls below 10 PSI (as listed in Dodge Service Manual) at any time get a new LP pump...

You can go the route I did which is Carter Campaign Pump from Cummins and a Vulcan Big Line Kit. My fuel pressure has been good 13.0 @ WOT and 15.0 @ idle... This is in hope of keeping the VP44 happy...

But fuel pressure isn't the only thing thats killing them...

ULSD is going be the next problem... I'm dumping a quart of 2 cycle oil in the fuel for every 20 gallons of fuel pumped in. So far I'm seeing better MPG numbers and less diesel knock... My 2nd gen sound like a 3rd gen now...

Last but not forgetten is the electronics that fail... There isn't much you can do to prevent them from going but it does happen...

 

If you hang on to your 97, if/when the IP goes out on the ISB, go back to the P-pump. You'd have all the parts you need to do the swap. Then you've got your reliable pump in a new truck.

 

Just get the third gen!!

 

my vp44 lasted 5 years stock then after a 1 year of exhaust and superchips and no gagues. it died. this was my stepmoms truck first 4 years , so it was pretty much babied. just thought id mention this. dieselfan

 

The vp44 is just like your alternator or starter, just cost more, but the price has come down a lot. Some last a very long time and some don't, who cares, put a good quaility vp44 on and your set for well over 100k.

 

What kind of problems could that cause ?

 

People debate over how the wiretap boxes are hard on the pumps.

Some say it does

Some say it doesn't

Seems to me, the pumps are just luck of the draw. Some go out, some don't.

I would run the VP, then P-pump it. Some have tons of miles, some have few miles. I've known lots of people with 24 valves. I think about 8-10. And about 4 of them had the VP go out. Although one had like 250k on it. 2 of them were within a week after they both put Sea Foam in the fuel tank(father and son). They had like 80 and 90k on and one was a 98.5 and one was an 01.5. And one had 150k or so on it.

Bottom line, you need a fuel pressure gauge. I'm sure many failures are from the lift pump dieing and taking out the injection pump.

 

Okay - Thanks.
Had me a little worried - since my Banks system taps that wire, and I'm having some problems ... but the problem doesn't seem to fuel pressure related.

And I think I agree with the 'luck of the draw' thing ... just like any other part.

 

Aside from the styling,the 3rd.gens. rule! Drive one and the difference is apparent.

 

A 24 valve Cummins VP44 is electronic controlled, set to around 1/2 throttle from Dodge. When you add a box and tap the wire you are giving your truck full throttle! The rest of the truck is not up to the power of the engine, the tranny is too weak and the exhaust is too small! You can break things if you run it too hard. The reason a pump dies when you add a box is because the pump wears a groove from 0- 1/2 throttle and when you all the sudden go to full throttle it can bind in the groove and break! And your truck just stops dead. Most don't bind and run good. If it's going to bind it will break ASAP you tap the wire, usually the 1st time you run hard thru the gears. Stay close to home. The pump is no big mystery, as reliable as any other part of your truck. My last truck had over 250k on the oringinal vp. My new truck needed 1 at only 85K. My alternator only lasted to 50k!